Antiquing - a cry for help

[Grumpy1]

UK Ray:

Here is one more variation for the use of Fiebing Antique Stains. I have been using this method for about 40 years and have yet to find anything better. Start by diluting the heavy bodied stain with a 50/50 mix with Fiebing Bag Kote, this will give you a liquid about the consistancy of dairy cream. The resin based Bag Kote will make the antique stains WATER SOLUABLE, to a degree.

I apply it with a small cheapie soldering brush, without the benefit of rubber gloves, brushing well down into the design impressions, doing the entire belt, wallet, checkbook, holster, item, in one five minute session.

Put on ONE rubber glove, on whichever hand you will be rubbing with, and begin wiping with a dampened cotton cloth, until you get the desired contrast and color penetration. If desired you can take an old tooth brush and brush some of the deposits inside the stamp patterns and knife cuts to the surface where it can also be wiped away. The rubber glove will prevent the fingers from being stained from color

that penetrates the cloth. Bag Kote is compatible with all finishes that I have lever use, including

Lac-Kote,Tan-Kote and acrylics.

Happy Toning!

Grumpy1

Edited April 11, 2010 by Grumpy1

[UKRay]

This thread seems to run and run...

I finally got a great system together for dealing with antiquing that includes elements of all of the above. I now have paper on the bench that can be removed when it gets dirty, I have vinyl gloves so I can keep my hands clean and I have a range of applicators to make sure the filthy stuff stays on the leather and does not reach the dog.

Personally, I find that mixing antiquing with Tan-Kote works best for me (thanks for that one, Kate) as it tends to dilute the antiquing and doesn't turn the whole project black. I just take a good dollop out of the jar with a spoon and drop it into a jam jar. Pour a healthy splash of Tan-Kote on top and stir until it feels about right - kinda like the consistency of thick custard.

Okay - who doesn't know what a jam jar is?

Who doesn't know what thickness custard is?

We have a whole different language over here in the UK... I'll happily translate if required!

Then I spread it around the project being careful not to get any on the back of the leather. I then leave it overnight - which is why all my antiquing jobs are left to the end of my work schedule. It makes a nice 'finish' (pardon the pun) to a busy day... LOL

The following day I buff the surplus compound from the job and give it a final wipe over with some neat Tan-Kote to seal everything into place. Job done.

Ray

[leathergrl]

This thread seems to run and run...

I finally got a great system together for dealing with antiquing that includes elements of all of the above. I now have paper on the bench that can be removed when it gets dirty, I have vinyl gloves so I can keep my hands clean and I have a range of applicators to make sure the filthy stuff stays on the leather and does not reach the dog.

Personally, I find that mixing antiquing with Tan-Kote works best for me (thanks for that one, Kate) as it tends to dilute the antiquing and doesn't turn the whole project black. I just take a good dollop out of the jar with a spoon and drop it into a jam jar. Pour a healthy splash of Tan-Kote on top and stir until it feels about right - kinda like the consistency of thick custard.

Okay - who doesn't know what a jam jar is?

Who doesn't know what thickness custard is?

We have a whole different language over here in the UK... I'll happily translate if required!

Then I spread it around the project being careful not to get any on the back of the leather. I then leave it overnight - which is why all my antiquing jobs are left to the end of my work schedule. It makes a nice 'finish' (pardon the pun) to a busy day... LOL

The following day I buff the surplus compound from the job and give it a final wipe over with some neat Tan-Kote to seal everything into place. Job done.

Ray

Ray, thanks for the reply. So let me get this straight. When you mix it with tankote (with no other treatment to the piece prior to application), the piece does not go too dark even after sitting overnight?

I hope this works, because I am nervous about messing up my piece that I painstakingly tooled. I'm sure you can understand that sentiment. I am going to try it out.

[Luke Hatley]

Ray, thanks for the reply. So let me get this straight. When you mix it with tankote (with no other treatment to the piece prior to application), the piece does not go too dark even after sitting overnight?

I hope this works, because I am nervous about messing up my piece that I painstakingly tooled. I'm sure you can understand that sentiment. I am going to try it out.

**********************************************************************88

Leathergrl... you sometimes have to try things out on a Practice piece.

Edited April 13, 2010 by Luke Hatley

[UKRay]

**********************************************************************88

Leathergrl... you sometimes have to try things out on a Practice piece.

As Luke says: sometimes the only way to know if something will work is try it on a test piece before hitting the important stuff. This is much harder to do when you are starting out as there never seems to be any scraps of leather left when you need one. After a while it gets easier... LOL

Practise pieces make perfect!

Ray

[leathergrl]

As Luke says: sometimes the only way to know if something will work is try it on a test piece before hitting the important stuff. This is much harder to do when you are starting out as there never seems to be any scraps of leather left when you need one. After a while it gets easier... LOL

Practise pieces make perfect!

Ray

I tried the tankote mixed with the antique gel from tandy on a celtic braided piece and I must say that I am very happy. I doused the whole thing in it but wiped off the excess and let it dry over night. I was happy that the piece did not darken and ruin- THANK YOU UK RAY. I am so happy.

I will click my heels together.

[Mike Craw]

Hey Ray!

I don't know if you've seen the YouTube video that Keith Valley did on antiquing, but he shows how he does a tooled saddle part. If you search "Cowboy Saddlery" there will be a list of videos on carving and tooling, and also the one he did on antiquing. Hope this helps. I notice he does not use a dog in his process.

Mike