"set Up For Leather"

[Cascabel]

I have seen several mentions recently about 441 machines and clones needing to be "set up for leather", or adjusted to be suitable for leather. What, exactly does this amount to ? Simple adjustments, major modifications, or what ?

I understand that the machines bought from the dealers that advertise here already have the needed adjustments, but what do they consist of ??

[Wizcrafts]

A typical Juki 441 or clone is not usually set up as a leather sewing machine. They contain parts and are timed to sew tents, tarps, buffing wheels, tow ropes, horse blankets, padded car seats, etc. As such, these machines are equipped to sew at about 10 to 15 stitches per second. Here are some of the changes that must be made to make a Juki 441 or clone into a dedicated leather stitcher.

• Change feed dog to custom made smooth type (original has aggressive teeth)
  
• Change big, wide, tooth-bottomed blanket presser feet to narrow, smooth bottomed harness feet, plus include a left and a right single toe outside foot.
  
• In the case of Cowboy 441 clones, change feet, feed dog and throat plate to stainless steel parts.
  
• Adjust reverse lever to sew into same holes.
  
• Increase lift to at least 1 inch (factory lift is 3/4 inch), allowing sewing to 7/8 inch of leather.
  
• Change motor to powerful, slow speed capable servo, with very small motor pulley, which feeds a speed reducer wheel, which drives the machine at about 8 or 9 to one speed reduction/torque multiplication. This allows you to sew at less than one stitch per 2 seconds, up to about 7 per second (depending on your motor).
  
• Adjust timing and placement of hook for best results when sewing leather, forward and reverse. Non-leather projects do not usually deflect the needle sideways as much as leather does.
  
• Optional installation of a wax/lube pot. This can be filled with liquid silicon thread lube, sewing machine oil, or (Ceroxylon) liquid wax.
  
• The lift and timing of the alternating feet may be altered for best timing with the motion of the feed dog, needle and inside foot.
  
• The pressure spring may be replaced with a heavier duty part, capable of holding down 7/8 inch of leather.
  
• Accessory throat plates may be included, or sold as accessories. These include a raised holster plate, a raised, rounded top stirrup plate, and a semi-flat, narrow-slotted plate that is used without the feed dog. Using the slotted plate without the feed dog can produce a bottom stitch line that comes close to the appearance of a needle and awl machine.
  
• Every nut and bolt gets inspected and tightened down, which doesn't always happen at the factory. ;-(
  
• Paint or casting mishaps are corrected before the machines are sold.
  
• Machines are tested with real leather, stacked to about 7/8 inch. The machine must sew to that thickness if it is advertised as capable of doing so.
  

These are some of the things that our dealers do to each 441 clone they have for sale. It takes upward of 4 to 6 hours per machine to convert them into proper leather stitchers, assemble them onto pedestal tables with speed reducers, and sew them off. If you were to buy a no-name 441 clone, you would have to purchase all these parts from our dealers, who have them made to order, then upgrade and readjust the machine yourself.

Edited August 25, 2013 by Wizcrafts

[Cascabel]

Thanks !!! I have always been curious about that. I have a Cowboy, but never knew what was involved to put it right for leather. Might be a good topic to pin.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks !!! I have always been curious about that. I have a Cowboy, but never knew what was involved to put it right for leather. Might be a good topic to pin.

Not without all of our advertising dealers approving the content.