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Posted (edited)

Interesting cant see a use for myself but an idea on treating to make it last longer is two part resin like what is used in fiber glass this sets into a hard plastic I have some and will give it a try, always love a good experiment.

I'll look forward to this......but I must say, as TwinOaks has touched on...that my whole idea was to utilize leather, and if the "stamp" lasts for just one application, it will be a success in the project I have in the planning stages.

Edited by Rayban

Rayban
www.rgleather.net

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Posted

I'll look forward to this......but I must say, as TwinOaks has touched on...that my whole idea was to utilize leather, and if the "stamp" lasts for just one application, it will be a success in the project I have in the planning stages.

I meant treating the leather with the resin, its hard but brittle when cured so no use as a stamp its the glass fibre that gives its tensile strength in this case it will be the leather.

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Posted

I found that the resin used for fiberglass will NOT penetrate into and therefore bind to the leather. It's just too thick. It will adhere to the surface, but after a very little flexing, it's clear that they aren't compatible. Now....casting resins are another story altogether. I don't think they won't bond to the leather, for the same reasons, but they should withstand pressure well. I'm not real sure about impacts...but the epoxy resins should take more than enough pressure for this.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

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Posted (edited)

My long time Friend and mentor Don Atkinson, now deceased, taught me to make tap offs by carving the pattern, swivel knife only then use common ordinary hardware store variety SHELAC from the paint dept. NO BAKING It hardens the leather and seals it at the same time. I have belt pattern tap offs I made 15 years ago still useable today. We also used this procedure for saddles fenders and other saddle parts that had right/left. Carve one side and before tooling it "tap off" on the opposing fender or piece.

Paul

Edited by sheathmaker

Paul long-----108 Briarwood Ln. W-----Kerrville, TX--78028------830 367 5536-- pfl@cebridge.net

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Posted

Paul, that's definitely a method I'll have to try, thanks!

Rayban
www.rgleather.net

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Posted

There is a how to in al stohlmans belts gallore book that uses shellac too

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Posted

Hello everyone sorry to zombie up this thread but i like how pattern was transfered from soft leather, i wanna get my technique down to try with a soft stamp.. A coin with lame 

Id like to ask how long should i wet leather? 

Why is hot stamping sometimes done what does it actually do? Whats the difference between solder stamping with low hand pressure and a press? I plan on a c clamp for now but just trying to know when to use what. 

Also i read about transfer foil?for coloring the final pattern (not for the initial guide tracing)?

I thought heat embossing was to darken burn the deeper pattern grooves so again confused.

Also if you have a curved pattern you like (a buckle). How would you transfer that? Im amazed how well soft leather on leather copied. Im thinking of adding either floor mat foam or wood in middle part. About how much pressure do you want? Im using a clamp but saw many dislike hand stamping. 

 

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