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Posted

I want to try making a guitar strap with a laced edge like these

images_zps111f9883.jpg

il_570xN255411283_zps90044583.jpg

lace_strap_zpsc4a3d861.jpg.

My confusion is, this lacing goes right to the edge. Right where my stitching would go.

HELP......

  • Members
Posted

The lacing is a replacement for the stitching. Both are meant to hold the structure together, but the lacing is just more decorative.

  • Members
Posted

The lacing is a replacement for the stitching. Both are meant to hold the structure together, but the lacing is just more decorative.

So then would the lacing go through the back/lining as well?

How would that feel on your shoulder?

Cyberthasher I've seen your Etsy page before.

Very nice!!!

What do you use on the straplock holes?

  • Members
Posted

Yes, it goes through the lining. You don't really feel it. The lace isn't that thick if done cleanly.

For the strap locks I use a hole punch that matches the diameter of the strap lock cylinder. It varies based on the brand.

  • Members
Posted

Yes, it goes through the lining. You don't really feel it. The lace isn't that thick if done cleanly.

For the strap locks I use a hole punch that matches the diameter of the strap lock cylinder. It varies based on the brand.

Thanks for the info.

I will try one this weekend.

Have you ever done a laced strap?

What kind or size lace do I need?

  • Members
Posted

If you want a small lacing profile, 1/8" lace will be it - but that will be a lot of lace. The example you have here is using 1/4", which fills things out nicely and looks good with a large item like a strap. It just depends on the look you want. In either situation, Kangaroo is always going to be the strongest lace to use and among the better looking. If you get a high grade of calf lace, it should be fine. But, since the lace is structural, make sure it's not the cheap crap.

  • Contributing Member
Posted

I would recommend something more like this:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/punches/chisels/88041-533.aspx

It makes a angled slit instead of the round holes of the punch you referenced above. I just prefer the slits to the round holes, but it is a matter of preference. IMO the angled slits look cleaner.

Bob

There are always possibilities....

Bob Blea

C and B Leathercrafts

Fort Collins, CO

Visit my shop at http://www.etsy.com/shop/CandBLeather?ref=si_shop

Instagram @bobbleacandbleather

  • Members
Posted

Yes, use what Bob said, or the 4 prong version. There are 2 rules of thumb when it comes to slit vs. hole in lacing. First one, that doesn't get used very often is "round holes are for round lace and straight holes are for flat lace". The other more important one (meaning "go by this one" :)), a slit is more likely to tear out under pressure, so don't use it for structural lacing that will be placed under load. Guitar straps and other light wear items (like wallets and belts) will be fine with a slit and look a lot cleaner. You want to use holes on stuff like saddle-bags or seats where all the weight will be supported by the lace. I also use holes for Mexican Round Braid lacing (which is done with flat lace) because of the amount of times you go through the hole. It's easier to lace and fills out the hole nicely.

So, to sum it up, use a lacing chisel to match the size of your lace so that you have clean slits to give a nice professional look.

  • Members
Posted

So I went with a Kodiak lace. Thats what the local Tandy store told me to use. 5/32"

I started at the tip and worked my way down each side.

I missed a hole on the right. At one point, half way down the left, the lace broke.

I had to improvise a splice.

It seems when I stared down the right side, the lace seemed...thinner.

Not as consistent as it was on the left.

It took me about 4 hours to lace the whole thing.

Man... theres got to be an easier way......

I'm gonna try one more with some conchos

1CDFD364-F832-495D-899E-3E5961AD34C4-1593-000003CB876BFF57_zpsc7003ecd.jpg

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