Advice Needed For Handmade Pouches Or Machine Made.

[Chambri]

I am considering producing high quality cellphone pouches with a friend of mine, as he has access to a supply of premium Italian leather at low cost.

I had a few rudimentary samples made and they did not come out the way I expected them to, especially stitching and edges. The craftsperson was an inexperienced machinist who previously only worked on thick leathers using heavy industrial machines and not on thin fabric.

I have a few questions which might help me in deciding whether to have these leather pouches handmade or hire an experienced machinist.

Attached is an image of a mobile phone pouch with smooth edges. I think some sort of gel has fused both sides of the leather together, like some sort of piping. What is this process called and what machine is used for this? What type of sewing machine is best for stitching thin shiny leather together?

For hand stitching what type of needles and size are suitable for thin cow hide leather?

And finally, what type of thread should I use?

Thankyou for any experience/advice given.

[RoyalLeatherDesigns]

I don't think thats pipping or anything like that. That is a very well burnished edge I think or skived on the inside (of course) then turned over and sewn like a hem. The way you can tell if its burnished or skived look at the inside if its looks folded over and sewn then it was skived. I am not sure if it was just burnished being that you said it was thin leather, but then again pictures can be deceiving and what's thin to me might be thick to you, vise versa. If you wanted to accomplish this yourself the machine I would use is something like the Consew 206 rb-5 or a Pfaff 1245. Both of these machines are walking foot and do the same thing but I personally would get a Pfaff if I didn't need any customer service. Like I said if the piece of leather was skived you need a skiving machine as well you can get one from the Leather Machine Co. You can accomplish this look with a bottom feed only machine saving yourself a couple hundreds dollars or if you want to go all out which I would get a top and bottom feed machine. You can also get the sewing machine from Leather Machine Co. It's called the Class 18, it's a really nice machine but the service you get with it is amazing I don't make any money telling you this but since it looks like you are just starting out you are going to need his advise and he treats you well and doesn't get bothered when you call him his name is Steve. I called his competitor as well who also advertises here when I was buying a machine and he was short about it almost just answering yes or no it really bothered me it made me look stupid. I am probably going off topic here but it seems you are getting your stuff together and nothing is going to be of more value than the customer service you are going to receive unless your an expert and don't need it. Good luck with it and you can do these yourself my friend with the help of everybody here.

Ralph

[RoyalLeatherDesigns]

The type of thread you can use on this thin leather can be #69, #92, #138 but I wouldn't use anything larger than that I personally would use # 69 I could be wrong but other members will jump in as well can you post a pic of the inside of the cell phone case so we can see the construction of it like a side shot or something

I am going to attach pics of the machines and links to them.

http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?item=6

http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?item=5

[Chambri]

Hi Ralph,

Thankyou for your informative reply. Much appreciated! The previous image was an image taken from a vendor, so I don't have the actual case to show. The edges are too smooth for it look as if it has been burnished.

However, here are the images of the rough sample of the pouch made.

The first link of the walking foot machine looks a lot like what my late father used to have in his factory. We had a textile manufacturing business back in the 70's and late 80's. He had quite a few machines (about 30) and employed about 20 people, until his untimely death at a young age. We lost everything to an unscrupulous partner.

The second machine seems interesting, I need to find a video that shows how it works. I truly believe in a customer relationship. I tried a few manufacturers on AliBaba site, but they never seem to respond. Perhaps they don't wish to waste their time on anyone who is not a bulk buyer.

Exporting the machine from USA to South Asia where my friend is based, is going to be cost prohibitive for us at this stage. Once we get this going I will consider leathermachines site. I like the fact that they are International.

For handmade pouches I think we are going to need a sewing awl kit, edge beveller, stitching groover, overstitch wheel, edge creaser. Is there anything to add to this list? Is nylon thread best?

[RoyalLeatherDesigns]

As for your hand tools I can tell you that Barry King has great tools, they are expensive but well worth it. I don't mind paying extra for quality. I always do tons of research before buying something. You can learn a lot from these great old timers on this forum, they are very helpful and don't mind sharing their advise. Look at Barry Kings website so you can get an idea of other hand tools you may need. Also think about using waxed linen thread, a lot of folks use them here I thinks it's more likes heavy duty type of thread Barbour is what it's called. Also you may want to look into needle and awl machines I like them a lot, you get the best stitch from them, but the 441 clones are far more versatile making them very popular in this community, I myself like old machinery but then again I tend to have an old soul. Good luck with your venture if I can help you in any way email me at RoyalLeatherDesign@gmail.com and don't bother with aliBaba items remeber that you need a reputable dealer to help you in troubles that you may run across.

[dirtclod]

Edge and burnish your sample. You might be surprised on how it looks.

[RoyalLeatherDesigns]

These are videos of a skiving machine as well as some needle and awl machines since you are going to be making small items these machines will produce the best looking stitch. Your customers will appreciate the look of the stitch and it will never come apart each stitch is locked on these types of machines. You will definitely need a skiving machine and I attached a video of one. That machine new will go for around 5k last I checked but you can gt one for 1200-2000 dollars the Fortuna is a top of the line machine if I am not mistaken its made in Italy I could be wrong. In the other hand these are very slow stitchers they are maxed out at 300 stitches per minute, it might not be what you want since its going to take you a while to complete just one. I am sure you can find a Consew 206 and a Consew skiving machine at your location for around 2k-2.5k. Anyhow these are interesting videos in my book.....

Ralph

Edited September 24, 2013 by RoyalLeatherDesigns

[Chambri]

Thankyou Ralph. Your information has been invaluable to me. Will keep you updated on how it goes.

[Chambri]

What product can I use to make it appear as if the three layers of the top, bottom and middle (soft grey lining) edge as one smooth layer on the edges? Should I burnish beeswax and then apply a transparent edge coat (water or alcohol based) to camouflage the edge? I am thinking of getting a dremel or a burnishing machine for burnishing the edges.

Edited October 1, 2013 by Chambri