First Holster

[rundogdave]

This is my first attempt at a scratch built holster. Did some experimenting. Drilled the stitching holes on the right side with a .060 drill. I see from other posts that this is too big. Left side with an awl. Need to improve my stitching and edge work, as well as the belt loops. Dip dyed after forming and stitching, several coats of neatsfoot oil then 50/05 water and resolene. What do ya think? Don't be shy. Can't hurt my feelings. Don't have any!!

[J Hayes]

Looks good. Might want the stitch line closer to the gun. Also the gun seems to be really deep in the holster, do you have enough room between grip and a leather to get a good firing grip on the weapon? 1 light coat of oil should be enough unless the leather was extremely dry to begin with, don't want it getting too soft. Maybe not mold so far into the ejection port, one can mold so tight it locks the weapon in. What weight leather did you use? I don't do hardly any with belt slots so I can't really comment on that. Its fun stuff though.

Jeremy

[rundogdave]

It's fun addicting, and frustrating when I mess something up. I did get the weapon a little too deep in to the holster, but didn't realize it until after it dried. One of several lessons learned. Started another one already, for a Glock 17 this time.

Do you do your stitching before or after you form? Did the stitching before on the first one. I want to try this one after, to keep the stitching white. I like the contrast.

I am using 6-7 oz. on these. Seems to be a nice weight for the wet forming.

How do you make them without belt slots? Got any photos to share?

[chiefjason]

I've found one of the keys to good edges is prep work. I hand sand mine after edging to get the grain under control. Hand burnishing is OK. But know that I'm doing mine on the drill press, I only hand burnish on hard to reach spots. It makes a big difference IMO. Belt loops look good to me.

One thing on the design, and maybe this is because it got too deep. But make sure you clear the mag release. The leather can release your mag if the mag release is covered. On the rare occasion I get it off, I'll go back and recut the holster to clear it. I'd rather have an odd cut and a clear mag release than a covered release.

[Red Cent]

How did you do such a neat job on the belt slots? A punch for the total hole?

[katsass]

From the old grumpy guy: The first thing that jumps right out at me is (are) the two pointy extensions for the belt loops. Points like that are something to steer clear of in any leather project. They may look good at this time but they WILL fray and end up looking poor in a reasonably short time. Your stitching needs to be much closer to the gun, which probably fits nice and tightly right now especially with the (IMO) over molding in the ejection port AND the trigger guard. As it stands, the gun WILL begin to move around in the holster sooner or later. The heavily molded areas will smooth out and retention will go to hell. Think about it -- each time you pull that shooter out of the holster, you push the leather out of the way at the two spots mentioned. It only takes a short time for the leather to begin to soften up and you lose the retention qualities that you have worked so hard to achieve and count on. Good retention can (and is) obtained by molding along the longer lines of your shooter. I always mold after stitch the thing up, and make sure that the stitching is tight enough to almost need to use substantial force getting the gun into the holster. It's obvious that you need to uncover the mag release button. It' very embarrassing to be on the line on your local range and as you draw the gun -- have the magazine end up on the ground in front of you -- and everyone else that may be watching. In the instance that this is to be used as a personal defense rig - it's downright spooky. I most certainly am not trying to dissuade you nor am I knocking your effort, but in the construction many factors must be considered, and better to learn now than find your work lacking at a place and time when it may REALLY count. Keep at it, we all started somewhere - and personally, my first tries were something that I hid away many years ago. Mike

Edited September 26, 2013 by katsass

[malabar]

Mike might sound a little harsh but he's on the money on all accounts. There's more to holster design than there seems at first glance. The devil is in the details.

One other thing: I would lower the slots a bit. That will reinforce them by getting material over the top of the slots.

But let me tell you, that's very good for your first holster. You don't want to see my first holster. I certainly don't want you to see my first holster <g>

[Jeff L]

Katsass is spot on (as usual)... Nothing drives me crazier than seeing a mag release button covered!

[rundogdave]

How did you do such a neat job on the belt slots? A punch for the total hole?

Thanks, but I think I can do better. I used a hole punch on each end, the an exacto knife to cut out the rest. Then tried to burnish the slot with a new burnisher chucked in my drill press, that I bought from one of the advertisers on this site.

Katsass, you are not dissuading me in the least. I appreciate your honest criticism. I will take everyone's suggestions to heart. I'm working on new patterns already. And I'll go to bed tonight repeating my new mantra, "Do not cover the mag release, Do not cover the mag release, Do...not... cov....zzzzzzzzz.

[MStarmer]

I tried the same one on my first one. Drilled one side, used a diamond awl on the other. I drilled mine with about the same drill size (.062) and it looked like crap, the awl punched side looked way better but it was tough to do. I spent some quality time sharpening the awl (made a huge difference) and then saw the idea to chuck it up in the drill press (turned off) just to use the leverage to punch it through. Made all the difference, looks better and a whole lot easier, not to mention not stabbing yourself. I would say very good for a first attempt. I'm on my 5th and 6th ones now, each time I mold one I modify my template just a bit trying to improve the fit and appearance.

Did you form it with the safety on or off? Also I would say add some curve or swoop to the top in lieu of straight across, will improve the look and you can miss the mag release.

I just use a french curve and swoop it up! This is my third one, it shows the curve nicely.

[rundogdave]

MStarmer, I believe I formed it with the safety off, but I really can't remember. Never thought about it, to be honest. I suppose it should be formed with the safety on, as one would carry it.

Is the reinforcement piece for looks or function? What did you use to die the one pictured?

[MStarmer]

The piece is both form and function. I like the way it looks mostly, it's dyed with Fiebings Pro Oil Mahogony, then neatsfoot oil, 50/50 resolene.

[SooperJake]

One thing I found when working out my patterns is to get the trigger guard-side-lines down pat first. Tightness can be adjusted by tweaking a straight line on the slide side. One way to get the line on the trigger guard side is to glue scraps together, cut the holster mouth shape at the top, mold, dry, then stitch around the mold with an unthreaded machine. You could also poke holes with your awl. Tear this apart and their will be the stitch line on the top half. This might seem like extra work but it has reduced my waste and time tweaking the stitch lines. It used to take me 3 tries or more to tweak the lines before I tried this method. The line along the gun and the line that actually molds in the leather don't always reflect a mirror image, since you are working in 3 planes at once. Pay close attention to what Katsass and the other seasoned veterans are telling you. That is wisdom you don't find in books.

[MStarmer]

SooperJake,

Sometimes the simplest of ideas is the smartest. I've been trying to get my stitch lines by making holsters out of sheet foam and then modifying my template. I don't know why I think to just use a few scraps...

[SooperJake]

SooperJake,

Sometimes the simplest of ideas is the smartest. I've been trying to get my stitch lines by making holsters out of sheet foam and then modifying my template. I don't know why I think to just use a few scraps...

yes, it was one of those head smacking moments. I forgot to mention rewetting and flattening out the front after the stitch holes are in, then transfer all to paper once the flattened piece dries. If you make a flat back holster you can mold with one side open and then stitch it closed after. My success with this method has been mixed. I know Dwight does this method, and a few others.

[rundogdave]

One thing I found when working out my patterns is to get the trigger guard-side-lines down pat first. Tightness can be adjusted by tweaking a straight line on the slide side. One way to get the line on the trigger guard side is to glue scraps together, cut the holster mouth shape at the top, mold, dry, then stitch around the mold with an unthreaded machine. You could also poke holes with your awl. Tear this apart and their will be the stitch line on the top half. This might seem like extra work but it has reduced my waste and time tweaking the stitch lines. It used to take me 3 tries or more to tweak the lines before I tried this method. The line along the gun and the line that actually molds in the leather don't always reflect a mirror image, since you are working in 3 planes at once. Pay close attention to what Katsass and the other seasoned veterans are telling you. That is wisdom you don't find in books.

Can you go in to more detail on this? My little pea brain can't picture what you are explaining. Maybe a drawing or photo?

[SooperJake]

I'll put together a step by step in pictures later this week for you.

[rundogdave]

I'll put together a step by step in pictures later this week for you.

Thanks! I look forward to it.

[katsass]

OK Dave, you seem to have received a pot load of instructions, guidance, ideas etc. from a bunch of knowledgeable craftsmen. but no one has mentioned the reason for a close line at the front of the trigger guard. The fact is that on a holster for an auto pistol the stitch line at the front of the trigger guard IS THE SOLE LIMITING FACTOR that setts the depth that your shooter will sit in the leather. That stitch line, in front of the trigger guard is critical, Many make the mistake of using the rule of "1/2 the width of the gun plus the thickness of the leather" for the distance around that whole lower side of their holster pattern --- it don't work. That portion at the front of the trigger guard must be brought in closer to the it, or the gun will slip deeper into the holster than you wish.

Being an articulate old fart, this statement is most likely clear as mud, but just look at the stitching in the first pic of your holster. Just extrapolating distances, I'd say that over time, your shooter will slip down in the rig about another 1/2". Does that make sense now, looking at where the stitching is? Lots of things to think about when designing a holster - and then you get in a hurry. I always (sometimes) draw up my design, then let 'er sit for a day or two and take a fresh look at it then. Usually there is a little tweaking to do. As a sideline, on a holster for a wheel gun, the limiting point can be the front of the trigger guard, or the front of the frame. It's one, tother, or both. On an auto pistol -- it's ALWAYS the front of the trigger guard. Hope this helps. Mike

Edited October 1, 2013 by katsass

[SooperJake]

Can you go in to more detail on this? My little pea brain can't picture what you are explaining. Maybe a drawing or photo?

Making the reply its own topic.