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Posted (edited)

Ran across this looking at different styles of 1911 holsters. How does one sew through kydex?

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Edited by Red Cent
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Posted (edited)

Ran across this looking at different styles of 1911 holsters. How does one sew through kydex?

Very carefully. :)

Seriously, I have done it on occasion, but I don't think I'd try it frequently...maybe if I had a bigger machine I might. I usually only do it to make tablet cases for myself...

Edited by TXAG
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Posted

Not a problem at all with a 441 type sewing machine..

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Posted

Whoa! You mean a Cobra 4 will sew through the leather and the kydex? Any special needle?

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Posted

What I'd be more curious about is how it works. How do you mold the kydex without burning the leather?

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Posted

I have not done it on the 441but I am sure it can do it I seen a video on youtube today of the Cobra Class 4 sewing through a California license plate and right next to it there was a piece of plywood sewn with black thread so I am sure the 441 can handle kydex. The Campbell Lockstitch can sew through a copper penny so it can sew a kydex sheat for sure. Both the Cobra Class 4 and the Campbell Lockstitch are great machines if used properly.

Ralph

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Posted

I've sewn a few pieces of Kydex for holsters, knife sheaths and mag pouches on my Pro 2000. I don't really like the result since the back side of the kydex is "punched out" leaving a burr which can abrade the thread. This effect is somewhat reduced if you use a very sharp needle. I suppose one could use kevlar thread to minimize thread fraying, but it seems like too much hassle for a limited return. It works a little better when sewing a kydex face to a leather back like the cross breed holster, but riveting it together seems to work just as well (its still a piece of plastic regardless of how you dress it up).

As for forming the kydex - there are numerous you tube videos on kydex knife sheaths and holsters. All it takes is heat and pressure - just like making diamonds (with somewhat less spectacular results).

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Posted (edited)

I've sewn a few pieces of Kydex for holsters, knife sheaths and mag pouches on my Pro 2000. I don't really like the result since the back side of the kydex is "punched out" leaving a burr which can abrade the thread. This effect is somewhat reduced if you use a very sharp needle. I suppose one could use kevlar thread to minimize thread fraying, but it seems like too much hassle for a limited return. It works a little better when sewing a kydex face to a leather back like the cross breed holster, but riveting it together seems to work just as well (its still a piece of plastic regardless of how you dress it up).

As for forming the kydex - there are numerous you tube videos on kydex knife sheaths and holsters. All it takes is heat and pressure - just like making diamonds (with somewhat less spectacular results).

That holster has been made in leather lined kydex variations, I'm assuming machine stitched before molding. That would lead me to believe that they stitched it before molding the kydex which requires getting the plastic pretty hot. I'm curious how they are able to accomplish molding without burning the leather.

Edited by Eaglestroker
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Posted

I hear from the guys that they are tired of the plastic and want leather holsters. I would think that once sewn onto the kydex, a heat gun used with caution could be used to form the kydex to the gun. The kydex in the picture looks to be lightly molded ( American English has no mould, and British English has no mold. In other words, the word referring to (1) the various funguses that grow on organic matter or (2) a frame for shaping something is spelled the same in both uses, and the spelling depends on the variety of English.) and could be formed very quickly.

Should I mentally prepare for the sound of the needle punching through the kydex? Wow!!

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Posted

That holster has been made in leather lined kydex variations, I'm assuming machine stitched before molding. That would lead me to believe that they stitched it before molding the kydex which requires getting the plastic pretty hot. I'm curious how they are able to accomplish molding without burning the leather.

The kydex does not need to be very hot to mould it. 170 celsius should not burn leather. I would likely wet the leather so that when moulding you are also moulding the leather and getting a little shrinkage to accommodate the required undersize of the leather.

We use unlined kydex / plastic holsters on the job, but with working guns, who cares about slides getting polished, wear and tear is the armourers problem. For personal carry, i would only use leather.

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