A question about sewing

[Jordan]

I have been asked to make a purse, it is a pretty simple design, a front and back panel that is 10" wide and gently curved on the sides, it is 7" tall with a 3" wide single piece for the bottom and sides, kind of like the stirrup purses I have seen posted . I am thinking of sewing it inside out then turning it right side out. I am hoping this will hide the stitching and give it more of a rounded over look. The top is open with no flap, and the strap will be a satin material that goes through grommets and ties in a bow at each end. I also am trying to figure out how to finish the top edge to hide the lining, do you think that folding it over to the inside and gluing will be a decent way to do this? I am trying to avoid exposed stitching as much as I can. I don't have any photos yet but I hope this description will be enough to get some ideas. Thanks.....Jordan

[WilliamWood]

I have been asked to make a purse, it is a pretty simple design, a front and back panel that is 10" wide and gently curved on the sides, it is 7" tall with a 3" wide single piece for the bottom and sides, kind of like the stirrup purses I have seen posted . I am thinking of sewing it inside out then turning it right side out. I am hoping this will hide the stitching and give it more of a rounded over look. The top is open with no flap, and the strap will be a satin material that goes through grommets and ties in a bow at each end. I also am trying to figure out how to finish the top edge to hide the lining, do you think that folding it over to the inside and gluing will be a decent way to do this? I am trying to avoid exposed stitching as much as I can. I don't have any photos yet but I hope this description will be enough to get some ideas. Thanks.....Jordan

[WilliamWood]

Jordan,

You are on the right track. I make Blackpowder "Possibles" bags, and have a similar situation. The secret is in proper planning: (1.) Yes, sewing inside out then turning it is the way. Consider adding a "welt" to the seam; it will hide the stitches. However, this is not necessary if you get the stitches tight, but most of the "Big Name" contemporary lady's purses have them. If you plan the stitching well, you can have all the stitches concealed when the bag is turned back right-side out. TIP: Make a cloth or vinyl trial piece first. HINT: On this type job, I use a very sharp Glover's needle (3-pointed) in a pin vise as an awl, then 2 Sharps cloth type hand-sewing needles (#3 to a #5) and light nylon upholster's thread. Anything else is too bulky. (2.) If it is to be a fashon item (as in a bag to go with a contemporary Lady's wardrobe,) choose your leather carefully and well. Get it as light in weight as possible, (1Oz - 1.5Oz. at the most; anything heavier is almost impossible to work and looks bulky in a contemporary high fashon item.) (3.) Choose a leather that is already finished. Visit a department store ("shudder") and look at what is popular in the "Name" purses and accessories on display there in the way of finishes. (Hard to do but make yourself - remember, it's for the JOB!) Talk to the customer and see EXACTLY what they have in mind. (4.) Before buying the leather, check with the bigger wholesalers. Most are on line, and many have a good selection of "Fashon" leathers much of which are trimmings and tanner's overruns from the big manufacturers. Most of the craft stores don't carry this type material. (5.) TOP EDGE: I have had good success with the top of bags by skiving the top 1/8" or so with a razor sharp blade, then coating the inside (Flesh side) to a line about 1/4" down with Barge cement, letting it dry, then folding it down and rolling it down with all the force you can apply. (Practice on a piece of scrap - you only get one try on this as the cement will bond instantly and PERMANENTLY. (6.) Consider a lightweight cloth lining - it's not hard to do while the bag is turned inside out and it covers a multitude of sins..... Good luck

[Jordan]

thanks very much for the information. a couple of notes, I will be using a machine to sew and the customer has a design that she wants tooled on one of the panels so I picked out the thinnest vegtan that I could but still be able to tool the design. I will post some photos this week when I progress in the construction. The lining she supplied is a dark brown velour type of cloth that she wants tight to the back of the leather rather than a loose fitting bag inside a bag. So I guess glue is the way to go.