Painting And Finishing Leather Fire Helmet Shields

[attack650]

Hello everyone,

I am brand spanking new to the leather world! I have just started making leather fire helmet sheilds and so far, so good! Once I was done cutting and tooling the leather, I painted the whole shield white and waited for it to dry. I then came back and painted the background and a bugle on it in back and silver, and to my surprise turned out pretty good for my first time. Every thing to this point has been painted with eco flo, cova color.

I then tried putting on super shene and within 2 strokes of the brush the paint started to smear. I have seen several post describing this and one of the biggest things that are mention is buffing the leather. I have tried to buff it and it doesnt seem like anything is coming off, so I am not really sure what to do at this point.

Now understand that these shields will endure temps of over 1000 degrees at times. I need to know what I can put on them to seal them from the elements and looking for any advise from others who have made sheilds in the past. Also, am I using the wrong paint, I have seen some people have used 1 shot oil based enamel?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Barlaam1]

Not sure if this will help you but I will share some of my experiences. I don't make shields but I make firefighter suspenders and radio straps. I started using the eco flo, cova color and i was not happy with the results. I even did the super shene on some of my first work. But it wasn't what I wanted. I switched to Angelus paint. I mix it 75% paint 25% water. My work usually has 4 light coats of paint to get the results I am happy with. 2 coats of white 2 coats of color. I have been finishing my items with the mop and glow, and water 50-50 mix. Mop and glow is supposed to be the same thing as Resolene, and a lot of people on here seem to use it. I apply that with an air brush. From what I have learned when applying the mop and glow mix you want light coats. if you can see white you are applying too much at that time. (it will make sense if you try it). I apply 2 coats of the mop and glow mix to seal my items.

I have only been working with leather for about a year so there are are probably easier and maybe better ways to do this. But this is what has worked well for me. It is very time consuming to apply that much paint but you want to produce a quality product.

One of the biggest things I learned is use quality leather. For practicing you might use leather that is on sale or more affordable. Now that I have more orders for my stuff than I can handle I only buy Hermann Oak. The quality of their leather is great. Many people use Wickett and Craig. I have yet to use W&C. (Why fix something that isn't broke) Learn about the different cuts of leather. The first sets of suspenders I produced were made from "bellies" now I only use "Single belt bends". The little extra in $ will keep what you produce consistent and keep customers coming back.

That is probably more than you wanted but I hope it helps. Do as much research as you can. This forum is an amazing resource.

[attack650]

Barlaam 1,

Thank you for the information! I would have never guessed to use mop and glow! I have just completed my first shield and sealed it with Americana acrylic sealer, now I just have to see how it will hold up.

I think I am going to try some of the Angelus paint. The acrylic paint that I'm using seems too thick and when I thin it with water it seems like its too thin. I'm curious to know where you get it or do you just order it from their site?

I have checked out Hermann Oak, I couldnt find the single belt bends you were talking about....

Thanks again..

[Barlaam1]

I get probably 90% of my supplies from Springfieldleather.com. They have been a very good company to work with. Keep in mind what I make with the single belt bends are mostly straps and suspenders. A different cut of leather may work well for you. Search this site for ff shields and you will find many great people that can probably help you better than I. Hope this helps

[attack650]

Great, Thanks again!

[Cyberthrasher]

I'm jumping in at the end of this conversation and it sounds like you got most of your needs covered. Just one thing I wanted to point out though.

You talk about buffing your work. Keep in mind that the need to buff is when using DYE, not paint. Dye penetrates the leather, but leaves a little bit of residual pigment on top. That's what needs to be buffed off. Paint just sits on top of the leather and doesn't penetrate or change the color. If you do get some off by buffing, you're actually going to remove the color.

Also, I've never worked with cova colors, but when thinning paint, you want it to be thin enough that you're not covering the texture of the leather (this will also help it soak in a hair, for what it's worth), but thick enough that you're not putting on hundreds of coats. Just build it up in light coats and let it cure between until you're happy with the color. Then seal it up with Resolene, which is formulated for water and UV resistance.

[attack650]

Thanks Cyberthrasher for the info! Greatly appreciated!

[Schultzt]

If anyone is still reading this thread I am getting into making helmet shields as well. A couple questions.

1. What thickness leather are you using? The few I've made are like cardboard. I think that my thinner leather 5/6oz is just too thin.

2. What type of finish will last and maintain that "leather feel"? I used a water stain but have heard it doesn't penetrate. However, it gives a good final look. Can I dye with an oil dye and put a water stain over the top or is that whole oil and water thing gonna come into play....

This is my first attempt. Pointers are welcome

[262leatherworks]

Schultzt. I am not sure if you are using the eco flo stuff or not. I started to that but switched to Angelus dyes and acrylic paints. I have had great luck with both and would not go back for anything. I do not make shields but I make other firefighter gear. The shield looks great! Good luck The blacked out/smoked out shield is a very popular shield.

[Schultzt]

I used the eco flo stain (red and black) on this. Since this one I have started dying and then staining for a smooth finish color along with a deeper penetrating color. Now I'm trying to figure out how to get a nice finished look when paint small stamped letters (1/4 inch) without having it bleed out of the letter outline made by the stamp. Using the cova color paint over top of the stain. I'm sure I will get better with practice.

[keithmann]

I have a badge wallet, used every day, that I used red Cova on and the red is STILL visible.
I made the wallet in 1981

[JennMetesh]

This maybe a silly question, but when making fire shields or radio straps that may be used in extreme situations (aka in fires) is it okay to use oil or alcohol based dyes and acrylic aerosol finishes? I don't want to use a flammable product that will accidentally catch fire.