jpless77 Report post Posted November 6, 2013 I've found recently, while weave (basket and tri pattern) stamping some wallets, that after completion the once perfect square or rectangle is now distorted and stretched. Can anyone offer some hints or tips to prevent this? Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pounder Report post Posted November 6, 2013 To prevent or at least minimize leather stretch while stamping always attach non corrugated cardboard to the back of the item you are tooling. When doing so, use a tacky glue or rubber cement to reduce the pull when separating these pieces. Another trick is to use packing tape to prevent stretch, I use both of these and have no problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpless77 Report post Posted November 6, 2013 Thanks very much for the feedback. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted November 6, 2013 I've used the methods above, but I've settled on self adhesive shelf paper, I buy it in rolls, not the temporary stick stuff it doesn't hold well. Works great for this and for minimizing dye on the backside when it is not desired. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpless77 Report post Posted November 7, 2013 Thanks Chief! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OdinUK Report post Posted November 11, 2013 With the rubber cement, do you apply it to one or both surfaces? Ive used Parcel tape (and then double sided tape to stick it down) and other types of tape but it leaves the gunk behind on the leather when I peel it off. Is there any way to prevent this? Does the rubber cement peel off cleanly? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jax Report post Posted November 12, 2013 I've started to use painters or "frog" tape on the back of my projects to prevent stretch & dye on the backside when its not wanted, that works well for me & doesn't leave any gunk behind Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OdinUK Report post Posted November 12, 2013 Jax, Thanks for that, I have some of the frog tape but haven't used it for that purpose yet. I'll give it a try. I assumed there wouldn't be enough tac from masking tape. I did have one brand of clear parcel tape that worked well but I can't remember where I got it from! Every other tape I tried since left gunk. Fingers crossed for the frog tape Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted November 12, 2013 Another method that I use is to first get the piece to as close of a shape as possible, then lightly mark the border with a scribe so I can stamp/tool to within about 1/4". Once the tooling is complete, I reassess the shape of the piece (fender, jockey, skirt etc.) recut the shape to meet the original intent and then finish the border of the piece. That way I am not using glue, tape of what have you on the piece, which can be a pain on some of the saddle parts I tool. Just another option for you to consider. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cloverpatch Report post Posted November 16, 2013 With the rubber cement, do you apply it to one or both surfaces? Ive used Parcel tape (and then double sided tape to stick it down) and other types of tape but it leaves the gunk behind on the leather when I peel it off. Is there any way to prevent this? Does the rubber cement peel off cleanly? Thanks. If you put rubber cement on both pieces and let it tack dry first, it acts like contact cement!! Very permanent. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davy Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Rubber cement and X-ray film for heavy embossing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OdinUK Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Do you apply the rubber cement only to the film? Ive been using Frog tape as was suggested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites