Bought A C.s. Osbourne Draw Gauge, Seems Just A Bit Off

[Mike516]

I just bought this draw gauge and unless I'm using it wrong, it seems a bit off. I've been using the cheap wooden one from Tandy and never used one of these so it could be I just don't know how to use it.

When I tighten the ruler part into the handle, the ruler is a bit off. It's not straight on the measurement line and the leather slightly rolls up going through the gauge.

I'm going to try and take a picture if that would be helpful.

But I was wondering, is this normal?

[Mike516]

Here it is. If you can make it out, I would say the ruler is off by about a sixteenth.

Look at the 1 inch line. The ruler is flush with the base of the handle. If I try and screw it down straight,as soon as I try and draw the leather through, it moves and loosens up.

Edited November 15, 2013 by Mike516

[bruce johnson]

Mike, Is it new or old? The gibs look new, but an old style. The nice thing about having gibs front and back of the beam is you can tune these pretty easily. If it is old, first thing I'd suggest is taking the rear gib out and switching it end for end. When they went to the cast models (and Henry Ford's technique of interchangeable parts) some of the handles and beams didn't always mate up to be 100% true. The gib could have a little more taken down on one side vs, the other and correct that discrepancy (like a shim). If that gib gets replaced or even reversed along the way, they don't line up. If it makes no difference to switch ends then one side will need to be taken down. some wet-dry sandpaper on a flat surface and leaning to the one side will take one end lower. It usually doesn't take much. Final little note, don't totally trust the longer lines on the scale for lining things up. The blade slot is what is important. check how parallel the blade is vs. the side of the handle. I have seen them recent and old with the slot slightly off vs. the scale marks, but true with the handle. That is what makes them work. Hope this helps.

[Mike516]

Thanks Bruce, I appreciate the information and suggestions.

It's supposed to be brand new, but I was thinking it could be a second that Osborne was not planning on selling, then the guy on eBay got ahold of them.

I'm going to try switching the gibs this weekend when I get back and see if that makes a difference. Otherwise, I messaged the seller, but I don't think he's going to answer me. He doesn't seem to be much of a communicator, but we'll see.

Thanks again.

[bruce johnson]

Mike, This very well could be new and the gibs are different than the replacement ones. If it is new I seriously doubt switching the gibs will make a difference. It was parted together, stuck in a box, and sent on. If the seller doesn't get back to you, I'd work on the rear gib to tune it and get the blade and handle parallel. One thing that will help after that is sharpening the blade. They aren't close to being sharp enough new.

[Mike516]

I'm going to try and get in touch with the seller and see if he can do something for me. I'm not really into having to file anything down or modify on a new tool to get it to work right when it should in the first place.

I do appreciate your advice. I wondered if it was something I was doing but it seems that the item needs to be replaced or refunded. Next time I buy from a reputable seller. Maybe if I can get a refund I'll visit your shop and buy one of your CSO metal handle Draw Gauges, which I should have done in the first place.

[J Hayes]

I'm going to try and get in touch with the seller and see if he can do something for me. I'm not really into having to file anything down or modify on a new tool to get it to work right when it should in the first place.

I do appreciate your advice. I wondered if it was something I was doing but it seems that the item needs to be replaced or refunded. Next time I buy from a reputable seller. Maybe if I can get a refund I'll visit your shop and buy one of your CSO metal handle Draw Gauges, which I should have done in the first place.

Unfortunately you will probably HAVE to fine tune any tool and new ones are no exception, some manufacters have to meet a price point and unfortunately fit and finish suffer greatly at times. Like Bruce stated new is nowhere near sharp, unfortunately. I've spent hours sharpening and polishing so called "polished" punches.

[Mike516]

I have no problem sharpening a blade. But if I have to modify a tool to make it work properly, that's just too much.

What if I sand it down too far or something? Now I ruined it and the seller is off the hook. No, I don't think I'm going to bother with all that. I guess I'll just stick with my Tandy wooden strap cutter.

[J Hayes]

True. Did you try flip flopping the gibs as Bruce suggested?

For straps off a side I prefer a rotary cutter and straight edge.

Edited November 21, 2013 by J Hayes

[Mike516]

Yes, I tried switching the gibs top to bottom and flipped them around, so 4 different positions. It's off about a full 16th of an inch. I can cut strips but the leather folds after the handle and frays the edges. It's not the end of the world but I really expected this thing to be at least as good as the wood one from Tandy.

So I returned it and now the seller is telling me he evaluated and compared it to 3 others and he's confident it will work perfectly. He's going to be a real pain in the a$$, I can see it already.

The other thing that roasts me, and it wasn't bothering me but now I'm getting annoyed and it's all going to build up, he charged $7.50 for shipping. I know everyone says they have to pay for packing material and boxes etc etc. but he wrapped it in newspaper and put it in a small flat rate box so $0 cost to him for materials but he overcharged anyway. I'm not looking to make a stink even though he should have paid an extra couple of bucks and mailed it in something that it fit in, but now he's going to give me a hard time.