Upgrading To A Sewing Machine

[Texasred82]

I'm a beginner leather crafter, my business is taking off and I need to buy a sewing machine. What would y'all's advice be with a quality machine in the $1200 range? Tacsew, consew, juki, techsew, etc? I'd defiantly need to put a servo motor on seeing as its my first machine. Ive done alot of research online but would like advice from experienced crafters. Any advice would be appreciated

[Wizcrafts]

This machine is a good all round leather stitcher. It can sew from about 6 ounces, up to 1/2 inch, with thread as heavy as #415. Personally, I would limit the thread to #277 & #277 top and bottom, or maybe #346 on top and #277 on the bottom. It is a few hundred more that the price you suggested, but well worth the extra funds.

This type of machine is a compound, triple feed walking foot machine.

[Texasred82]

Thanks for the info. Any other suggestions?

[Wizcrafts]

Describe your projects and plans for leather goods and we can offer more suggestions.

For instance, while not actually a leather machine as such, the Consew 206RB-5 does sew up to 3/8" of medium temper leather, with #138 bonded nylon thread. They usually sell for right around $1200.

[BruceH]

Hi Wiz,

I am new at this so I am not sure if this is a silly question:

When you say that the CB3200 can sew from about 6 ounces, up to 1/2 inch. Am I to assume that thinner leather like 3/4oz will not sew correctly or sew poorly?

I am looking for a machine with a wide range of options (wallets, belts. etc.) and leave my options open to 1/2 inch max. I can only afford 1 cylinder head machine. and was considering the CB3200.

Thanks,

Bruce

[Wizcrafts]

The 3200 is a 441 clone, using system 794 (leather) and 7x3 (cloth/webbing/vinyl) needles. In my experience, these needles don't come in leather point under size 23, which is best suited for use with #138 bonded thread. The knots formed when the tensions are perfectly balanced would be well centered in approximately 7 to 8 ounces of leather (1/8 inch). In anything thinner, the knots would be visible either on top or on the bottom.

If you need to use that type of machine with thinner work, you'll need thinner thread and thinner regular point needles. It will take a lot of dinking around to re-balance the top and bottom tensions for say #69 bonded nylon, sewn with a #18 non-leather point needle. The needle is 2 3/4 inches long, very thin, and subject to easy deflection by the layers. Deflection means bent or broken needles and/or many skipped stitches.

This is before I tell you about the very large, 3/8" wide feed dog, with a really big oblong hole in it (for up to #27 needles), which moves in a very long and wide slot. This machine is best suited for sewing very firm leather or webbing projects, at least 6 to 8 ounces thick, with thread sizes 138 and UP.

In contrast, the 227 type machines have a 1/4 inch wide feed dog that has a fairly small hole, allowing for no more than a #25 needle, if even that.

If you need to sew very thin parts, like 3 to 4 ounces, you're better off with a lesser machine, like the "227R" type. It takes the ultra-common system 135x16 leather point and 135x17 round point needles and can sew up to, but not exceeding 3/8 inch, with up to #138 thread. Some folks have tweaked these machines to sew with #207, but usually, only on top, with #138 in the bobbin. They can sew as easily with #69 thread, using a #16 or #18 needle, with even less pressure needed to hold down the work (the thicker and harder the leather or webbing, the more pressure it takes to hold it down between stitches. If the leather lifts with the ascending needle, it skips those stitches.).

So you see, there are machines that are best for sewing with thinner needles and thread into thinner projects, and others that are best used with heavier needles and thread and thicker jobs only. There are very few machines that reliably sew from a couple ounces up to 1/2 inch, or more, with thread sizes 69 through 346.

If you have to choose just one machine to start with, and most of your work will be under 3/8 inches, go for a 227 type (medium duty, cylinder arm) machine, with a reverse lever. When the time comes to sew holsters and sheathes, weight belts and harnesses, buy a bigger stitcher that goes over 3/4 inches, with the heaviest thread sizes.

[BruceH]

Thanks so Much.

This is such a great site for Info. You helped me determine that the CB3200 is the wrong machine for me, at this time.

I will choose between the CB227R and the TechSew 2700.

I know these questions are asked time and time again but I am open to any comments about either model.

A great thanks to anyone that can help.

Bruce

[Wizcrafts]

They are both good machines for your startup in sewing. Contact both dealers and see what it will cost to get their machine to you, on a pallet, threaded and ready to sew. I almost bought a CB227R, but went for the bigger CB4500 instead. If I had more room in my shop I might go for one of them. As is, I have squeezed in three sewing machines and one skiving machine and don't know where another unit could possibly fit!

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

What I think the wonderful Wiz is trying to tell you is that there is no one all 'round perfect machine for everything. You need to look at what work is most important to you right now and what can bring the money in to expand your machine family. Most serous letherworkers own at least three or four machines because they all do different things.

[neelsaddlery]

Hello:

Do you need to have a cylinder arm machine for the type of work that you are doing? Flatbed machines tend to be more economical than cylinder arm machines because more are produced.

You can look at the Cowboy Model 0797 machine as well as the Artisan 797 machine.

These are lower priced and could still work well for sewing lightweight to medium weight leather goods.

Consew also has a machine called the 205rb1 which is an economical machine for lightweight to medium weight leathers.

Hope this is of some help to you.

Edited January 9, 2014 by neelsaddlery