joeyrsmith Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Hi there, got a 211g165 last night. Found a very small pulley which went on great with a shorter belt. Works like a charm. But!! After I get a bobbin in and positioned the right way and the threads ready for sewing, it will sew nice for awhile and then the thread keeps popping out from under the bobbin projection which then it gets tangled up and hard to pull the fabric out to snip the threads. Especially after I cut thread to start a new practice piece. The bobbin thread keeps coming out from under the bobbin projection. I have the plate pulled back so I can watch whats going on. Sure is slowing the process down. having to keep watching that the thread is under the projection. When it does pop over and wrap around some I have to cut thread and untangle. What and how can I keep the thread from popping over the projection? What am I doing wrong please? ANy ideas will be appreciated. Other than that I finally got it tensioned and oiled up properly and sews great slowed down now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pcox Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Are you sure you have the bobbin in right? Thread coming from left to right, on the near side of the bobbin. If that is right the latch opener may need adjusted, or a little more bobbin tension. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gottaknow Report post Posted January 4, 2014 When you put the bobbin in, make sure the bobbin spins counter-clockwise when pulling the bobbin thread. Pull the bobbin thread down into the angled slot. Thread your needle, hang on to it, and rotate your handwheel towards you. Your hook will pick up your needle thread which will wrap over the top of the bobbin basket and pick up your bobbin thread. Pull the bobbin thread up through the hole in your feed dogs. To ensure your bobbin thread is in the tension place a finger on top of the bobbin, pull on the bobbin thread. This will pull the bobbin thread under the tension spring. Be sure to hang on to both threads when you start sewing. To adjust the latch opener, slide open the cover and sew some material through the machine. Leave the right edge of your fabric along the right side of your throat plate. That way you can see the latch opener adjustment. The latch opener pulls the bobbin basket a tiny bit counter clockwise. As your needle thread passes between the bottom of the throat plate and the small tab on the basket, there should be no pinching at all. The thread should pass freely. When adjusting, don't let it open too far as it will force the small tab into the front side of the notch in the throat plate. I attached a pic to make it easier to understand. Regards, Eric Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeyrsmith Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Thx. Eric, My latch oper contact point is not as tight as the pic you provided. Meaning, the little hook part is at least 1mm apart from the contact point Does that make a difference? Is the adjusting you mention the J-shaped hook with the set screw? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gottaknow Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Yes, It is the J shaped hook with the single set screw. You make the adjustment just as the needle thread slides past the little tab. At that point the opener (J) should be pulling and holding the bobbin basket towards you to allow the thread to pull up smoothly. A 1mm gap when the thread is supposed to be pulling up through there will not work. It only has to pull the tab open about double the thickness of your thread. Regards, Eric Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeyrsmith Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Ok, happy to report. Got it going real good now thanks to Erics little comment "To ensure your bobbin thread is in the tension place a finger on top of the bobbin, pull on the bobbin thread. This will pull the bobbin thread under the tension spring" That was the problem, thread was not under the tension spring. A little more fiddling and I am good to go. Thx Eric and pcox. Eric, so should I hand crank until its at its closest point then move the J-hook closer? Thx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gottaknow Report post Posted January 4, 2014 (edited) As you turn your handwheel, you'll see the latch opener move left and right. In the farthest right position, it should be holding the tab back to allow your thread to pass cleanly. Do several stitches until you can really see what needs to happen. It's pretty straight forward. Glad my tip was helpful. Regards, Eric Edited January 4, 2014 by gottaknow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeyrsmith Report post Posted January 4, 2014 (edited) Ok making alot of sense now. My 1st walking foot. Have a big smile on my face. One last question. On the handwheel, they have the stitch length as A B C D E. Plus a little arrow with + and - mark. Its common sense for the stitch length, but what exactly and the numeric equivalents for the letters? My manual does not list anything on it. Thx again, I am just about there. Joey Edited January 4, 2014 by joeyrsmith Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gottaknow Report post Posted January 4, 2014 The letters don't really indicate a certain stitch length, just an indication of where it's at. "A" is going to be longer than "D". Singer also uses numbers on some machines that indicate the actual stitch length. It's a rough guide at best since it depends a lot on what you're sewing and how the machine is set. There are some Singers, 300W chainstitches and 281-22 lockstitch machines that have separate adjustments for the needle bar travel and the feed travel. You can set those the same or slightly different as needed. A really nice feature for difficult sewing conditions. Have fun! Regards, Eric Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
