Cutting Lining

[wlg190861]

Hello

The problem I am having is I cant seem to cut the lining leather without cutting into the wristband. I am using a rotary cutter. Is there a better way to cut the lining? Or do I need more practice There has to be another way. Do you have any tips.

You can see in the photo

[Northmount]

Do the trimming before you put the rivets in. Then hold a metal ruler down tight or clamp it and cut both the leather and the lining at the same time. Make your pieces a little larger so you have some space to trim off.

Tom

[wlg190861]

I have to put the spots on first so, I can hide the bottom of the spots with the liner. so the prongs don't catch you wrist. there is no liner on the black one. just on the brown one

should I cut the liner before I bevel the edge

[DTrap]

As northmount said just start off with the pieces a little wider than you need. Put in your spots, glue the lining, and then trim both pieces down to the correct size you want as if they were one piece.

Edited February 14, 2014 by DTrap

[Northmount]

The only reason I suggested leaving the spots off, was so you would have a nice flat surface to lay your ruler on as a cutting guide. If you are making several of this design you could make a cutting guide to fit with them.

I would fully assemble the straps, glued, sewen, etc. before I trimmed the edges, then bevel the edge and do your edge treatment.

Tom

[dirtclod]

The first thing i would do is get rid of the rotary cutter and get your self a round or head knife. Leave the bottom a little wider and cut it with knife. You will be able to see what your doing with knife to and no need for a ruler. Thats the way i do it anyway and it's worked fine for 30 plus years.

[wlg190861]

Is it hard to keep a head knife sharp ? How do you keep it sharp. can you explain.

[wlg190861]

Dirtclod: Is that head knife that Springfield leather sell a good knife ?

[BDAZ]

I have a similar issue with the lined cases I make. Instead of using a ruler, I purchased some narrow aluminum stock at Home Depot and use that as a straight edge, It allows me to get the straight on the item with much better traction than a wider ruler. I have roughed up one side for better traction.

I use a utility knife which I strop often and that seems to give me a very good edge.I use a rotary cutter for cutting fabrics and suede.

Cya!

Bob

Edited February 14, 2014 by BDAZ

[Dwight]

I finally (several years ago) said to the devil with knives, rotary cutters, head knives, axes, saws, . . . or anything else you can trim leather with to make it look right.

I bought a 1 inch electric belt sander, . . . it uses a 1 x 30 inch belt, . . . makes more racket than teenagers tapdancing on a metal roof, . . . but the edges come out clean, . . . straight, . . . level, . . . and ready for beveling and burnishing.

It is especially useful if there is more than one layer, . . . belt, holster, pouch, sheath, etc.

I wore out the first one, . . . bought another one, . . . now I have a rotary, reciprocating drum sander that also works magic, wonders, miracles, . . . woo-hoo, . . . who needs knives?

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited February 14, 2014 by Dwight

[dirtclod]

Both of the knives that Springfield sells are Osborne's their good knives, i have a couple that i use regular. Not the best but their not 2 to 300.00 each either. I would ask if their 4 inch wide knives, 5 inch wide knives get you a little far from your work for me. You sharpen them on a regular or diamond stone then strop or buff on wheel with compound.

[St8LineGunsmith]

out of all my head knives, round knives and skiving knives my most used knife is a folding lock back razor knife I got from Harbor freight the blades are thin and very precise and the blades can be stroped to be sharper than the factory edge and if you do finally dull a blade beyond its usefulness just slide a new blade in to replace the old one. then I do as dwight mentioned I burnish the edges with an electric belt sander and or drum sander. this process often requires additional edge beveling to remove the excess edge build up from sanding.

[Andrew Chee]

I finally (several years ago) said to the devil with knives, rotary cutters, head knives, axes, saws, . . . or anything else you can trim leather with to make it look right.

I bought a 1 inch electric belt sander, . . . it uses a 1 x 30 inch belt, . . . makes more racket than teenagers tapdancing on a metal roof, . . . but the edges come out clean, . . . straight, . . . level, . . . and ready for beveling and burnishing.

It is especially useful if there is more than one layer, . . . belt, holster, pouch, sheath, etc.

I wore out the first one, . . . bought another one, . . . now I have a rotary, reciprocating drum sander that also works magic, wonders, miracles, . . . woo-hoo, . . . who needs knives?

May God bless,

Dwight

Hi Dwight, what grit do you use for your final sanding of edges?

I've found that the sander works great for leveling the edges. If I have no curves in the piece I still prefer to cut the straight lines because you do get a cleaner edge. But with curves and corners you can't beat a sander to level the layers.

Andrew