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In Over My Ability! Help With Saddle Stitching In Tight Area.

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I would say you have to use an awl... That's just me

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I would pull the zipper piece out and punch all the way around, then reinstall the gusset and punch what you can. If you can not punch the tight areas I would switch to an awl for them.

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Ya, I was thinking a little de-construction to get it so you can either wheel or chisel mark an even stitch line and then use an awl.

The bag is looking great though, you are doing a good job.

Make a little diary of construction notes, maybe some drawings so you will remember to mark the stitch line before assembling.

I am really good at making the same mistake, so make cheat sheets on my projects ,often right on the paper patterns.

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thank you all! so, should I have stitch grooved and puched stitching holes in my bag outsides before assembly and then after construction, pierced through the zipper gusset to those outer stitching holes with an awl??? is that what the consensus is? thank you~

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That is how I would do it, except that I would not grove. I never do. You did not grove the area you machine sewed, so why grove when you hand sew.

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thank you all! so, should I have stitch grooved and puched stitching holes in my bag outsides before assembly and then after construction, pierced through the zipper gusset to those outer stitching holes with an awl??? is that what the consensus is? thank you~

Yep, though I probably would have sewn it up like what you did, cursed myself and disassemble like I described.

As for stitch grooves or not, it depends on the leather; chrome tan rarely, veg tan usually, oil tanned somewhere in the middle.

If it is thin leather, just a divider to give an even distance from the edge. If it is a high wear area on a veg tan strap, I would groove a channel. Usually I do a test on the leather I have to see how it takes to grooving...some tear and rip rather than cut.

Edited by WScott

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great advice.....looks like my next tool will be a divider. This leather tended to tear at the surface and I didn't know there was another way to tackle the stitch line...learning, learning, learning. thanks~

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