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Posted

So following on and after doing the reading I know realise I've asked the wrong question in the header!

Am I right in thinking that both a Compound/Triple Feed machine or a Jump Feed machine could both come with either smooth or toothed feed dogs so if I'm looking for a machine that is less likely to mark the leather then it should have a smooth/dull feed dog. Both the Compound & Jump feed machines are Needle feed which means its the needle that moves the work along but the Compound machine would hold the work more securely? And more expensive? I've attached a couple of snaps of the first bike bag I made last year, all hand-stitched. Looking at it now I'm wondering how the hell I'd do this on a machine. The veg tan leather is too thick to turn inside out so it would have to be machine stitched on the outside seams if that's the right terminology. Maybe I should put this into another topic on bag construction though I'm beginning to realise what a massive source of info this forum is so it's probably already on here somewhere. Look forward to any replies. Thanks, Rich

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Posted

I'm just beginning to sew leather and turning even soft leather from inside out has been a hassle. I've made several different prototype bags in heavy stiff-woven fabric that I've never tried in leather precisely because of that problem.

Most of my prior experience has been boat canvas, including sticky materials such as vinyl. Feed-dog and presser-foot marks were not a problem sewing sticky materials. Getting the material to feed was the problem but which can be mitigated by sandwiching the material in news-print. After sewing, the newsprint easily tore-away on the stitch line. I've read about feed-dog and presser-foot marks on leather and thought that if newsprint didn't work, I'd try cold tape and if that didn't work, electricians' tape, all both on the top and bottom if necessary.

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Posted

I wonder what kind of machine would be used to stitch those old style school satchels, they're stitched on the outside. Hi Andrew, I've just seen your hunter bag on the forum, it looks really great and I keep hearing about the PFAFF 335 machine and the Consew machine, no marked leather!

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Posted

All of those machines are compound/triple feed. They all have smooth feet and feed dogs either available or easily modified. The different feet can be purchased relatively inexpensively. The 335 is a very nice machine because it is a cylinder arm and has a synchronized binder. The Consew 206 machines are less expensive but are flat bed and don't have a synchronized binder.

Neither are mark proof though. It's really an issue of the type of leather you use and the pressure setting on the machine. When I sew very firm veg tan leather, it will still leave tracks. When I say tracks I mean you can see that it was sewn by a machine but there are no teeth marks. You may be able to rub the tracks out afterwards but it will leave a little bit of a track.

Andrew

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