Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tejas

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    DIY Marine Canvas and Sail Repair

Recent Profile Visitors

9,876 profile views
  1. I would beware of someone else packing and crating the machine. I paid for packing, crating and shipping of a used machine being sent to me, and all I can say is that I was lucky the damage was as little as it was.
  2. One kgg suggestion is a Juki DNU-1541S. If that machine interests you, you might want to also consider a Juki DNU-1508N. The primary interest when I bought the 1508 was marine sewing applications. In addition to marine canvas, cushions, boat blanket which is quite heavy and some sail repair, I have also sewed leather and fabric bags. The 1508 is top-load bobbin machine, which I prefer. The 1541 is a bottom-load bobbin machine.
  3. Here is a link to a very good media copy of the instruction manual: http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/JukiLU-562-3Owners.pdf
  4. For what it is worth, I'm just a hobbyist, upgraded from a 111W155 to a Juki 1508, and am quite pleased with the decision. I had really good 111W155, and truthfully most of the sewing I've done could have been accomplished about as well as with the 155, but just a bit more fiddly.
  5. A difference between some machines you're thinking of is top- vs bottom-load bobbins -- the Consew machine is bottom-load. I've used both top- and bottom-load machines. Here is what I've learned or read elsewhere: Vertical Axis (aka: top-load or drop-in) bobbin machines are more likely to jam than Horizontal Axis (aka: bottom-load) bobbin machines. Sewers seem to prefer the type of machine they learned on. My preference is top-load, but then I first started on a top-load machine Advantages and disadvantages of top- versus bottom-load seem to be: Top-load: • Advantages: - Can see how much thread is left on the bobbin without removing the bobbin - Can see and change bobbin without tilting back machine • Disadvantages: - Must hold thread when stating sewing to avoid jams - Must remove fabric to change bobbin Bottom-load: • Advantages: - More tolerant to lack of holding thread when starting sewing, which means that bobbin-wrap jams are less likely - Can change bobbin and resume sewing without removing fabric, especially useful when binding (sewing fabric advantage) • Disadvantages: - Cannot easily see how much thread is left on the bobbin - Must learn to load bobbin by feel or tilt machine back to see and load • Other: - Uses a bobbin case, and this might be an advantage if bobbin tension is changed frequently and have separate bobbin cases set for each tension.
  6. Try the links in Tejas's post of 26 July 2018 in the thread below which are not for the G model which has reverse, but might be helpful. http://forum.sailrite.com/consew-255-clone-of_topic3607.html
  7. I've had both a Bernina 217 that could also sew 2- or 3-step zig zag and a compound walking-foot machines, originally a Singer 111W155 and then a Juki 1508, used almost entirely for marine sewing applications. The Bernina 217 was useful for occasional sail repair. Were I to have had only one machine, it would have been either of compound walking foot machines. BTW, I've also used a Consew 206RB-5 sewing marine canvas and vinyl extensively for about two weeks and was less than thrilled compared to either the Singer or the Juki.
  8. Might not apply to your application, but I use Renaissance wax on tools. "Renaissance Wax is a brand of microcrystalline wax polish used in antique restoration and museum conservation around the world. Commonly used to polish and conserve metal objects, ...." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax
  9. Try this link. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/76664-pdf-adler-167-service-manual/
  10. Here is a link to a German company that makes industrial sewing machine tops and stands. https://www.kessler-ergo.com/us-en/table_tops/
  11. Could the problem be that the machine had been unused for a long time and is gummed-up? I bought a used Bernina 217 zig zag sewing machine in excellent condition but that apparently had been stored for a long time. Zig zag worked erratically. A sewing machine repairman soaked the machine in a solvent -- kerosine maybe -- and the sewing machine worked perfectly. A few other folks on the forum seem to have had similar problems Try the following in google to see those threads. gummed up zig zag sewing machine site leatherworker.net
  12. Judy, You've probably already found the Sailrite pdf and video information. In case not, try the following query in google. sailrite fabricator manual site sailrite.com
  13. Wizcrafts seems to be correct. According to the following Sailrite chart, the Fabricator is a compound walking foot machine. https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Straight-Stitch-Sewing-Machine-Comparison-Chart.pdf
  14. Link to download Instruction Manual https://www.supsew.com/wpfb-file/seiko-lsc-instruction-manual-pdf/
  15. I also did mostly vinyl and marine canvas for my sailboat. As for the type of machine for that application, I strongly favor a compound walking-foot machine vs a walking-foot machine -- the addition of needle-feed to walking-foot makes a huge difference. My first machine was a 111W155 that could do almost everything I can do with my current Juki 1508.
  • Create New...