Jump to content

Tejas

Members
  • Content Count

    226
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tejas

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    DIY Marine Canvas and Sail Repair

Recent Profile Visitors

12,235 profile views
  1. You might try a Surgeon's Knot, which is similar to a square knot and provides extra friction.
  2. Cleaning the garage. Anyone want Big Boy cast iron stand and lasts, sizes 215, 217, 218? They are rusty. See some for sale on eBay, but I don't want anything for them.
  3. I mounted a paper towel holder on the right-front underside of the sewing table to feed binder tape to my Juki. Handles large drum rolls and I've had no problem with it getting in the way
  4. Mike01230 provides a link for open- and closed-end types of zippers. The choice it seems to me often depends upon the application. Sailright describes these kinds of zippers as finished zippers and continuous zippers. Most of your our applications are different than typical Sailright applications, but the principles are similar, and Sailright has some videos you might want to view. https://www.sailrite.com/Zipper-All-Questions-Answered-about-Zippers-Streaming-Video
  5. Here is a link to a manual. Large file (about 15 mb), all text in several languages. https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Manuals_Adler/Manual_Adler_104_105.pdf Manual_Adler_104_105.pdf
  6. I've sewed with both and much prefer the Juki. The Juki is a more modern machine and is still made in Japan. That model Consew was made in China, but the quality of the Consew I used seemed OK. A big difference for me was the difference between a top-load and a bottom-load bobbin machine. I've been writing an industrial sewing machine self-tutorial, and copied below is that section. Top-load versus Bottom-load Bobbin Machine Vertical Axis (aka: top-load or drop-in) bobbin machines are more likely to jam than Horizontal Axis (aka: bottom-load) bobbin machines. Sewers seem to prefer the type of machine they learned on. Advantages and disadvantages of top-load versus bottom-load seem to be: Top-load: Advantages Can see how much thread is left on the bobbin without removing the bobbin Can see and change bobbin without tilting back machine Disadvantages: Must hold thread when stating sewing to avoid jams Must remove fabric to change bobbin Bottom-load: Advantages: More tolerant to lack of holding thread when starting sewing, which means that bobbin-wrap jams are less likely Can change bobbin and resume sewing without removing fabric, especially useful when binding Disadvantages: Cannot easily see how much thread is left on the bobbin Must learn to load bobbin by feel or tilt machine back to see and load Other: Uses a bobbin case, which might be an advantage if bobbin tension is changed frequently and have separate bobbin cases set for different tensions. Apologies for the formatting. Copy and past didn't work very well.
  7. I would beware of someone else packing and crating the machine. I paid for packing, crating and shipping of a used machine being sent to me, and all I can say is that I was lucky the damage was as little as it was.
  8. One kgg suggestion is a Juki DNU-1541S. If that machine interests you, you might want to also consider a Juki DNU-1508N. The primary interest when I bought the 1508 was marine sewing applications. In addition to marine canvas, cushions, boat blanket which is quite heavy and some sail repair, I have also sewed leather and fabric bags. The 1508 is top-load bobbin machine, which I prefer. The 1541 is a bottom-load bobbin machine.
  9. Here is a link to a very good media copy of the instruction manual: http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/JukiLU-562-3Owners.pdf
  10. For what it is worth, I'm just a hobbyist, upgraded from a 111W155 to a Juki 1508, and am quite pleased with the decision. I had really good 111W155, and truthfully most of the sewing I've done could have been accomplished about as well as with the 155, but just a bit more fiddly.
  11. A difference between some machines you're thinking of is top- vs bottom-load bobbins -- the Consew machine is bottom-load. I've used both top- and bottom-load machines. Here is what I've learned or read elsewhere: Vertical Axis (aka: top-load or drop-in) bobbin machines are more likely to jam than Horizontal Axis (aka: bottom-load) bobbin machines. Sewers seem to prefer the type of machine they learned on. My preference is top-load, but then I first started on a top-load machine Advantages and disadvantages of top- versus bottom-load seem to be: Top-load: • Advantages: - Can see how much thread is left on the bobbin without removing the bobbin - Can see and change bobbin without tilting back machine • Disadvantages: - Must hold thread when stating sewing to avoid jams - Must remove fabric to change bobbin Bottom-load: • Advantages: - More tolerant to lack of holding thread when starting sewing, which means that bobbin-wrap jams are less likely - Can change bobbin and resume sewing without removing fabric, especially useful when binding (sewing fabric advantage) • Disadvantages: - Cannot easily see how much thread is left on the bobbin - Must learn to load bobbin by feel or tilt machine back to see and load • Other: - Uses a bobbin case, and this might be an advantage if bobbin tension is changed frequently and have separate bobbin cases set for each tension.
  12. Try the links in Tejas's post of 26 July 2018 in the thread below which are not for the G model which has reverse, but might be helpful. http://forum.sailrite.com/consew-255-clone-of_topic3607.html
  13. I've had both a Bernina 217 that could also sew 2- or 3-step zig zag and a compound walking-foot machines, originally a Singer 111W155 and then a Juki 1508, used almost entirely for marine sewing applications. The Bernina 217 was useful for occasional sail repair. Were I to have had only one machine, it would have been either of compound walking foot machines. BTW, I've also used a Consew 206RB-5 sewing marine canvas and vinyl extensively for about two weeks and was less than thrilled compared to either the Singer or the Juki.
  14. Might not apply to your application, but I use Renaissance wax on tools. "Renaissance Wax is a brand of microcrystalline wax polish used in antique restoration and museum conservation around the world. Commonly used to polish and conserve metal objects, ...." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax
  15. Try this link. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/76664-pdf-adler-167-service-manual/
×
×
  • Create New...