Bag Construction On A Cylinder Walking Foot

[Flattracker]

Hopefully this'll be the last of my questions, but I doubt it. (for one thing I can't even figure out how to create paragraphs here? so bear with me) In choosing my first industrial sewing machine I've been (possibly overly) concerned by the marks that the feed dog makes on the veg tan leather. 1. If the machine is tensioned correctly is it only on the underside that gets marked, by the feed dog, not the walking foot? 2. If so then the marks will be concealed by the bag lining in the final construction, and so not an issue? 3. What about satchel type bags or wallets where the stitching is seen, how do you get over the "marking" problem. 4. Soft (fashion) bag leather is much thinner, and more pliable than 2mm plus veg tan so is it less likely to be marked by the feed dog/walking foot and therefore not an issue? Thanks folks, Rich

[Andrew Chee]

Basically sewing machines may/will leave marks on the leather. The walking foot may leave tracks on the top. I usually have less of an issue with the feed dog leave tracks cause my feed dog are smooth. Whether they leave tracks also depends on the type of leather. Not just veg tan vs. chrome tan. If I use W&C skirting leather, I don't really see much in terms of tracks. If I use W&C harness leather, the tracks are more apparent. This is probably due to the wax content in the leather. These tracks can by minimized by controlling the foot pressure but in many cases, you may not be able to eliminate them. It's just a matter of a small metal foot pressing on the leather that causes the tracks.

Some people use roller foot machine to help minimize tracks. I've still seen leather goods where you see the tracks.

Probably the only way to ensure you never mark on any leather is to hand stitch.

Andrew

[electrathon]

I can't even figure out how to create paragraphs here?

The little gray box in the top left corner, click it. I don't know why or what, but it will allow the enter key to work. It is not you or your computer, it does it on three of mine, one is only a couple weeks old and at work, so it is on a totally different system. It is something wrong with the forum software.

[Flattracker]

Thanks electrathon,

it

WORKS!!! (am feel much better now I can paragraph)

And thanks Andrew, to be honest all this sewing machine stuff sounds a hell of a lot more hassle than I thought it would ever be. I guess it's the difficulty of a machine dealing with a material that comes in many tanned forms.

Can I ask generally: if someone were to make a satchel type back/briefcase where you can see the stitches on both sides and the leather is veg tan and too thick to pull inside out, what kind of sewing machine would be used?

Cheers,

Rich

[Andrew Chee]

Hehe... That's not really that easy to answer. That will depend on how thick and heavy the leather is. I would say either a Pfaff 335 or Consew 227 if max total thickness was under say 15oz. For more than that, you would want an Adler 207 or Juki 441 clone (Cobra Class 3 or 4, Cowboy 3500/4500, etc...). Now, since you mentioned stitches visible on both sides, you're getting into needle and awl machine territory and those are in a class of their own (price wise as well, and no cylinder bed exists for those).

What I learned getting into this hobby is that there is no such thing as one machine that will handle everything. I currently have four and I want more...

Andrew

[Flattracker]

Haha! Yeah it's dawning on me that my workshop is going to need extending to house some non-bike, cylinder/flatbed machine goodness instead. Can't wait!

Thanks for the input.

Rich

[electrathon]

Thanks electrathon,

it

WORKS!!! (am feel much better now I can paragraph)

Rich

Hard to explain how excited I was when I learned how to not look like am idiot with a big huge block of typing (my spelling is bad enough without other issues too).