Help Timing A Pfaff 335

[Andrew Chee]

Hello all. I recently had to replace the needle bar on my Pfaff 335. In order to do that I had to remove the hook assembly and needle bar and put them back on. That necessitated a retiming of the machine. I have a pfaff service manual but it's useless to me because it mentions things like the lower needle bar bearing and I have no idea what those parts are. Futzing my way through things I think I have it almost there. The stitching look ok but the knot is but super consistent. The upper thread tension seems very sensitive now. The weirdest thing is at the end of the stitch, the extra top thread looks like it has been unravelling or something. There's something weird going on here.

Earlier on I was having problems with the hook splitting the top thread but I set the hook to engage a little later and that seems to have solved the problem.

Can anyone give me the proper way to time this machine? I'm just doing this by trial and error at this point so any pointers would be appreciated.

Andrew

[Tejas]

Would this link help?

http://www.pfaff-industrial.com/pfaff/en/service/downloads/technicaldocu/pfaffdocument?doctype=technical&classid=335&is_submitted=1&submitselect=Show+Results#ergebnis

[Andrew Chee]

I have the manual. Page 12 says to put a 1.8mm thick feeler gauge with its cutout close under the lower needle bar bearing. What does that mean?

Andrew

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Set the feed to zero.

Neele bar goes down and rises. The manual will tell you how much.

When the needle bar has risen the specified amount the hook should be smack bang in the middle of the scarf. Adjust the needle bar and hook to suit.

I use a business card to give the right separation between hook and scarf.

[Andrew Chee]

Does 1.8mm sound about right to you?

Andrew

[Trox]

Hello,

First you must pre adjust the needle bar height (needle height) ,see the manual: to be 15 mm. over the needle plate at BDC. Its all wrong now when you changed it. Perhaps you already have adjusted its height, just make sure you did.

"Page 12 says to put a 1.8mm thick feeler gauge with its cutout close under the lower needle bar bearing. What does that mean?"

This is related to the needle raise, the needle bar has to raise with 1,8 mm after BDC ( bottom dead center). The hook has to be set to the needle when the needlebar is in this position.

They do this with some special tools described in page # 5 in the manual. A gauge 1,8 mm thick and a clamp called needle bar clamp, that lock the needle bar in the right height (1,8mm after BDC and stitch length set to 3, with the desired needle size that should be your medium size needle).

In absence of that I always use a caliper to measure its proper height and a tubing clamp to lock it if necessary (first the needle bar height at 15 mm. bdc and then add the 1,8 mm to find the correct raise after bdc; where the hook has to be timed, 16,8 mm. in your caliper).

When the needle bar (with the right size adjusted needle in) is set to the right height I loosen the screw in the hook shaft and turn the hook to set it to the needle.

If your machine is pretty new and the hook gear move freely on the hook shaft (after opening its screws), you can probably manage to adjust it with out the aid of an needle bar clamp.

However, if its an old machine and you must use some force to move the hook gear you can use a tube clamp etc. instead. Lock the needle bar from advancing (in its right height 16,8 mm over the needle plate, thats 1,8 mm after BDC) with this around the needle bar. Use some thin leather inside the tube clamp not to damage the needle bar.

Then turn the hook gear and adjust the needle hook timing as described in the manual. Do not forget to set the right distance between the hook and the needle sharf too (0,05 to 0,1 mm= as close as possible with out hitting the hook).

When your machine is splitting the tread etc, its related to improper adjustment. It will be fine when you adjust it like described above.

Good luck

Tor

[Andrew Chee]

Awesome. I had adjusted the needle bar to 15mm above the bed at bdc but didn't understand the 1.8mm rise after bdc at stitch length 3. I think I got it now. Thanks.

Andrew

[Trox]

Thats good, sometimes the hook shaft on these machine have damages after the gears setting screws. From being adjusted allot. Then a clamp will be of good help to lock the needle bar when you move the gear. I had to remove the hole hook shaft on my Pfaff 345 to loosen the gear, it would not turn on the shaft. It can happen to all old machines.

When you do these adjustments, then do them all. Start with the first one and adjust the feed, stitch length everything at once. They all are connected to each other. For best result control them all.

Andrew, is that an goat in your picture, do you live on a farm?

Tor

[Andrew Chee]

I don't live on a farm. I was at the petting zoo with my son and there was a goat just standing there with its head against the wall. Just thought it was funny and said something about life.

Andrew

[Trox]

Yes, sometimes my life feel that way too. It a good picture, it deserves a bigger column space.

Tor

[Andrew Chee]

So I tried the instructions above and set the timing on my machine. It now sews fine. The stitches look good. I still have an issue where the top thread looks like it's unraveling when I look at it after running a line of stitches. I also notice more thread fluff on the presser feet after a long line of stitches suggesting the top thread is rubbing somewhere? Any ideas?

Thanks

Andrew

[Wizcrafts]

So I tried the instructions above and set the timing on my machine. It now sews fine. The stitches look good. I still have an issue where the top thread looks like it's unraveling when I look at it after running a line of stitches. I also notice more thread fluff on the presser feet after a long line of stitches suggesting the top thread is rubbing somewhere? Any ideas?

Thanks

Andrew

By any remote chance, are you using right twist thread?

[Andrew Chee]

By any remote chance, are you using right twist thread?

Not unless the thread changed twist direction in the middle of the spool. Could it be possible that the hook twists the thread the wrong way while making the loop?

Andrew

[Trox]

Hi, first change your needle for a new one (it takes care of 90% of all stitch errors). Then make sure to use left twisted thread and place the first thread guide in center over the spool (at the thread rack). Then make sure you use three holes in the thread guide on top of the machine (two or more) . This to take the twink out of the thread before it passes in to your tension disk. I do this when I have trouble with twisted top thread. If you have problem with the bobbin thread, your bobbin probably is unevenly winded. Get the right tension on the bobbin winder, not to hard, and wind the thread evenly on to the bobbin .

What subclass is your machine and what needle size do you use for adjusting it. This might also happen when you use to heavy thread. Control you hook tip for burr, nicks and cuts. You can polish/repair such with a fine ceramic stone. If nothing of this helps, check all adjustments one more time. And do them in the order of the manual.

Good luck

Tor

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Bloody hell Trox,

I know that you know more about these babies than I ever will but I have managed to reset the timing on several with nothing more than a couple of screwdrivers.

Now I am scared because without this information I have always made them work (even with bottom end gear wear) but now I know that I need special tools I probably won't be able to do it again!

The 335 is very similar to some of the Singer machines - it even has the same take up lever guard as the "W" models - and they require nothing special.

Hello,

First you must pre adjust the needle bar height (needle height) ,see the manual: to be 15 mm. over the needle plate at BDC. Its all wrong now when you changed it. Perhaps you already have adjusted its height, just make sure you did.

"Page 12 says to put a 1.8mm thick feeler gauge with its cutout close under the lower needle bar bearing. What does that mean?"

This is related to the needle raise, the needle bar has to raise with 1,8 mm after BDC ( bottom dead center). The hook has to be set to the needle when the needlebar is in this position.

They do this with some special tools described in page # 5 in the manual. A gauge 1,8 mm thick and a clamp called needle bar clamp, that lock the needle bar in the right height (1,8mm after BDC and stitch length set to 3, with the desired needle size that should be your medium size needle).

In absence of that I always use a caliper to measure its proper height and a tubing clamp to lock it if necessary (first the needle bar height at 15 mm. bdc and then add the 1,8 mm to find the correct raise after bdc; where the hook has to be timed, 16,8 mm. in your caliper).

When the needle bar (with the right size adjusted needle in) is set to the right height I loosen the screw in the hook shaft and turn the hook to set it to the needle.

If your machine is pretty new and the hook gear move freely on the hook shaft (after opening its screws), you can probably manage to adjust it with out the aid of an needle bar clamp.

However, if its an old machine and you must use some force to move the hook gear you can use a tube clamp etc. instead. Lock the needle bar from advancing (in its right height 16,8 mm over the needle plate, thats 1,8 mm after BDC) with this around the needle bar. Use some thin leather inside the tube clamp not to damage the needle bar.

Then turn the hook gear and adjust the needle hook timing as described in the manual. Do not forget to set the right distance between the hook and the needle sharf too (0,05 to 0,1 mm= as close as possible with out hitting the hook).

When your machine is splitting the tread etc, its related to improper adjustment. It will be fine when you adjust it like described above.

Good luck

Tor

[Trox]

Hi, yes they try to make it complicated. Singer mostly have timing marks on the needle bar that eliminates the use of these special tools.

No do not worry, it just depend what has moved; the hook gear or the needle bar. Since you do not know, you got to know how to adjust everything properly. It matters because of the feed timing. If it was just the needle and the hook it do not matter what you move on. But you have the feed? ( bottom, top and needle feed) that should be in relation ship to the needle/ hook too. There are special tool for all the Adler's too, I never use them because I do not have them. I find and set the needle height right with a caliper. Those special tools makes it easier to get it right, thats all.

About the thread; find Cowboy Bob video on Youtube on how to thread the Cowboy 4500. There you see how to place the thread rack right, all these things apply to every industrial sewing machines. And its very important to avoid problems with the top thread.

Good luck

Tor

[Hanzo111]

Hi everyone, I'm a new member

Sorry to bring up an old post but I need help with my 335g.

I have set the needle bar and timed the hook and the machine still won't stitch. Does anyone have a video on timing this machine?

Regards

John

[Andrew Chee]

Just saw this thread again. Wanted to close up on my earlier issues with the thread unravelling. I figured it out. Looks like the thread guide hole on the needle bar wasn't finished very well (non-OEM part) and was rubbing the thread and causing it to shred and unravel. I put some polishing compound on a string and cleaned up the hole and how the issue is resolved.

Andrew

[Trox]

Sorry John, I never seen a video of the needle hook timing on that machine. Use a new right size needle according to the adjustment/service manual. Set the needle bar height (I think it should be about 15 mm over the needle plate, U can use a piece of paper to see that its not penetrating it). Prior to this make sure that feed dog is in the center of its cutouts and the needle hits in its center again. Make sure you have the right distance between the needle and the hook (as close as possible with out hitting each other) when this is done, adjust the needle hook timing on the hook gear; unscrew set screws and move it on the shaft (if necessary). If this is OK and it still won't stitch. Check your bobbin case opener; it should open and pass bobbin thread true. If not it may not stitch. Pfaff uses a special tool; a needle bar clamp to hold the needle bar in the right position when timing, I use a hose clamp with some leather inside to protect it. And clamp the needle bar in its right position when turning the hook gear. Be careful not to damage it (or buy the right tool from Pfaff)

Good luck

Tor

[Hanzo111]

Thanks guys, I will try the recommended fixes. I love this machine but it is driving me nuts. Ill give an update tomorrow, You guys are great..

Regards

[Hanzo111]

Thanks for all the help! I got her running well now. I think my needle size is too small though. Can anyone recommend a size for thread just over 69 bonded?

Regards

[Northmount]

Thanks for all the help! I got her running well now. I think my needle size is too small though. Can anyone recommend a size for thread just over 69 bonded?

Regards

See this chart

Tom

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for all the help! I got her running well now. I think my needle size is too small though. Can anyone recommend a size for thread just over 69 bonded?

Regards

If your thread is #69 bonded nylon, the usual needle sizes are either #16 (smaller holes), or #18 (bigger holes). If the needles are bending and getting deflected too easily, try a #19. All should have a leather point, either chisel, or diamond, or triangular shaped.

[johnnywalks]

Hi!!!! Need help with my Pfaff 335 please. I'm trying to set my timing with a 134-35 DH needle size NM90 size 14. The tip of my hook is touching my needle and pushing it outwards, this needle is quite small actually.  How do i move the hook (or needle) to give it a 0.05mm distance between both hook and needle? 

Edited November 15, 2017 by johnnywalks

[Uwe]

According to the Pfaff 335 Service Manual (I only have the German language version for the modern casting Pfaff 335), you loosen two screws marked 1 and the screw marked 2 (on the back side). Then you can rotate and shift the hook to the correct position to line up with your needle in the hook timing position (1.8mm rise after bottom dead center). Make sure cone gear (4) meshes nicely, then tighten screws again. 

  

Edited November 16, 2017 by Uwe