Another Something Different

[Red Cent]

After I cut and glue, I square all the edges with a band sander and/or a drum sander. I bevel then I sand with a hand held hook and loop rubber block with 220 grit. I finish with a sponge that is impregnated with fine grit. Sponge forms a great rounded edge and removes the "hair" from the edge. I apply water with my fingertips (sparingly) and burnish with my home made dowel rod burnishing tool on a drill press. At this point, I usually have a glass smooth edge. I use Fieblings brown and black edge dye. When fully dry, I burnish again. Another glass smooth surface. Then, normally, I apply an acrylic I bought at Zack White. It is a proprietary coating that he doesn't advertise. My little plastic bottle has #250 hand written. I also have a large bottle of #300 also hand written. Let it thoroughly dry, buff with a t-shirt and a good edge jumps out at you:).

Sometimes, after the dye, some bumps may appear that are remedied with the sponge. Burnish again.

I have gotten away from the glycerin bar soap, beeswax, and/or paraffin for the most part. If a certain piece is stuborn, I may resort to beeswax:).

[4wheeler4]

After I cut and glue, I square all the edges with a band sander and/or a drum sander. I bevel then I sand with a hand held hook and loop rubber block with 220 grit. I finish with a sponge that is impregnated with fine grit. Sponge forms a great rounded edge and removes the "hair" from the edge. I apply water with my fingertips (sparingly) and burnish with my home made dowel rod burnishing tool on a drill press. At this point, I usually have a glass smooth edge. I use Fieblings brown and black edge dye. When fully dry, I burnish again. Another glass smooth surface. Then, normally, I apply an acrylic I bought at Zack White. It is a proprietary coating that he doesn't advertise. My little plastic bottle has #250 hand written. I also have a large bottle of #300 also hand written. Let it thoroughly dry, buff with a t-shirt and a good edge jumps out at you:).

Sometimes, after the dye, some bumps may appear that are remedied with the sponge. Burnish again.

I have gotten away from the glycerin bar soap, beeswax, and/or paraffin for the most part. If a certain piece is stuborn, I may resort to beeswax:).

Thanks for the tips, your work is always top notch!!!!

[Red Cent]

Thank you.

[MDH Leatherworks]

Thank you for laying out your process on your edges - great work!

[marine mp]

Red Cent, Nice work. I myself have gone to just using H2O as my edge burnishing "secret " formula!!!!! Take care...Semper-fi Mike