New To Leather: What Tools Should I Invest In?

[mrtreat32]

Just now getting into leather working and have been reading about what tools I need to start out with for basic leather projects (belts, card holder, straps for bags) on multiple forums. I also picked up the Art of Hand Sewing Leather. I'm primarily interested in hand stitching.

I would rather spend a bit more money and get a smaller amount of higher quality tools than buying a kit from Tandy. Seems that a good quality awl (Barry King Awl Handle) and needles are important.What about an overstitch wheel or stitching groover? I'm looking for a list of the basic tools and which tools I should spend the extra money on. I'm a chef and would recommend to splurge on good knives and pans but go with a basic cutting board and vegetable peeler, for example.

Do you have recommendations for best tools to start? What tools should I invest some extra money on? Do I need a lacing pony if I'm going to be hand stitching?

Finally, do you have a recommendation for a decent quality rotary punch for snaps? What's the best mid-priced all around type of knife and brand you would recommend?

[DavidL]

You would probably be interested in pricking irons, they provide a slanted stitch and look the most appealing imo. If you are really interested in doing it right from the beginning and not having to rebut this is what i would recommend.

- Good sewing awl - best investment for your money - depends on the stitches per inch (length of stitches) which size you buy. I do 7 stitches per inch and 9 spi both with 30mm awl(vergez blanchard)- dixon is also on par with vergez blanchard, but bob douglas has the best awls available for $27 blade only.

pricking iron - vergez blanchard are the best hands down - but cost the most $109 for a small iron and over 200 for a large iron. No other brand compares. Old vintage pricking irons can match the modern vergez.

overstitch wheel- bruce johnson has the best overstitch wheels, all vintage tools

Knife of some kind - Round knife, japanese utility knife, clicker knife... You would probably be able to get away with an average knife and sharpen it up how you prefer since you are a chef. I prefer japanese utility knifes vs round knifes (however I haven't used one before) easier to sharpen.

Thread - linen thread, poly thread, ramie thread - a lot of brands available

Theres a bunch more but you will be able to figure it out.

here are some links-

fineleatherworking

goodsjapan

leathercraftools

bruce johnson

sheridan leather

[mrtreat32]

Thanks for all the useful info.

I know it sounds crazy investing a lot into a hobby Im just starting but I would rather get the right tools the first time around and not buy a bunch that I will never use. But I dont quite have the budget to spend a lot on all tools so Im trying to see which ones are worth investing in from the start

After reading what you wrote and searching around endless sites on the internet and gathering information Im leaning towards starting off with these purchases. Would love to get feedback or thoughts.

*Pricking iron- Vergez blanchard (someone on ebay seems to have all sizes) was going to get a small 4tooth iron and maybe a 2tooth for edges? I was leaning towards starting out with 7spi. Does that sound like a good all around size to start with? (mostly interested in wallets, belts, phone case type projects)

*Douglas Awl needle but going with a different cheaper handle. Will the Vergez handle fit a Douglas awl blade? Barry King handles look really nice also

*Alvin cutting mat to work on

*Tandy Leather Pony (Is this one ok to start off with or anything a little more money that is a decent upgrade without spending too much)

*After those above purchases going to have to pick up the rest for now with budget in mind. Probably going to need a stitching groover,steel rulers, utility knife, and maybe a edge beveler(not sure on size to get). Is there a budget friendly step up on these types of things over tandy where I can get some decent tools but not go over my budget?

thanks

[DavidL]

the absolute tools that you need are the ones you listed. Also add a good knife, exacto blades can do even, but the best bang for your buck for cutters are olfa brand cutters and especially the rotary cutters.. hardly bumped my hand to my brand new olfa cutter and saw red.

Pricking iron - I have a number 9 pricking iron which is the one i started with i also have a number 7 pricking iron from dixon which are not as good i would give it - 6.5/10. A number 7 will give between a fine looking stitch and a clunky looking stitch and many users prefer 7 as there go to spi. Buy a no.7 vergez from fine leather working with 4 prongs and forget the 2 prong iron, seeing as the four prong iron can be tilted up wards so that only 2 prongs touch the leather- sean from fineleatherworking can stock up inventory for custom orders you just have to email him.

Douglas blade can fit into every awl handle - dixon, vergez, bearman, osbourne. The awl hafts that is just a hole and has no metal collete will need a vice to set the blade in, others with a collete are screw ons.

I have the tandy pony 69 dollar one and was considering a vergez blanchard clamp for 200 but now have no plans to buy a more expensive clamp. The cheaper clamp can also work out.

an edge compass will be needed too - dixon, vergez blanchard, osbourne - i have have the vergez and find no problems with it

Thread - .8mm linen or polyester - for 7spi

Also consider that if you over buy a bunch of tools at the beginning.. more than the basics- everything i recommended, they may be used very rarely or not at all. I find that i've not used my edge creaser - i have 2 and haven't used it more than 1 time and one 1

I haven't even touched.

Im sure they will be useful later on, but if on a budget get the essentials, make a few wallets then decide what is necessary.

P.S never buy from tandy - unless they have a clearance sale or the item that can not be bought online. Salesman sold me a hand stitching kit for a hundred and in a months time i found out all tools were useless. Still mad that he told me it was a good deal and I believed him - to be fair looking back at it he didn't pressure me to buy the kit, but he knew full well they were worth dirt.LOL.

Good luck. Any other questions just ask

[mrtreat32]

Thanks so much for the feedback.

Still quite a few questions if you dont mind.Trying to gather all the correct information and make the best decisions before I make the investment and place my orders online.

Looked at a few leather items I have purchased in the past and measured out the stitches per inch to get a idea of the look. A bit undecided on if maybe I should start with the 9spi instead. I like the look of the small stitching but that would change what needles and thread I would need to use correct? And do you think learning with smaller stitching is a bad idea since maybe its harder to work with? I figured the 9 might be the way to go since it would be easier to manually punch the holes with a awl if I wanted less than 9spi.

You also mentioned the overstitch wheel. Would that be for a different spi count or you use that before you go to work with the pricking iron?

The edge compass you mentioned is similar to a stitching groover but just a different style of doing things? The edge compass scratches a straight line which you follow with the pricking iron? Is this correct? haha Would you ever use a stitching groover with a pricking iron and would you need a special one for smaller stitching so that the surrounding channel isnt too chunky for the stitching?

Sorry for so many questions. But trying to start anything new from scratch there is so much to learn.

thank you

[Mike 257]

Mrtreat. Im in the same boat as you . Im an absolute beginner but I have been lurking around here about a year now. My intentions are to make holsters and eventually become good enough where I can sell them, Recently I have taken an interest in tooling . I also decided to buy good tools . Finally last week I started ordering my stuff, I went with

Barry King 16oz tapered Maul

Barry King 7/16 swivel knife with 3/8 thin blade

4 Clay Miller stamps

10 assorted cheap stamps bought off facebook leather forums

Gomph #5 over stitch wheel from Bruce Jonson

Gomph #2 edger

Stinger Awl from Bearman

Douglas Awl blade from Sheridan <------ Still on backorder

25 John James harness needles

Ritza 0.8mm thread

Stitch Clamp made by me

8" Compass

I ordered a headstone today that I will use for a tooling bench then reuse as my headstone when I die. Im even thinking of having the one side filled out and leave the end date open .

Edited April 10, 2014 by Mike 257

[mrtreat32]

Looks like you ordered some great stuff from what research I have done.

Im going to start ordering my stuff today! Its a bit overwhelming since to get all the different stuff I want Im going to be ordering from 5 or more places. Not to mention the start up cost for good quality tools.

You mentioned the Douglas Awl blade was backordered. Do you know if that was for a specific size? I was going to order one but if thats the case I think I will order the Vergez Blanchard awl.

Will you be using the compass to scratch a line for your stitching or are you planning on getting some type of groover as well?

[DireWolf]

Good read for me too.

Thanks to all who have contributed.

[DavidL]

Looks like you ordered some great stuff from what research I have done.

Im going to start ordering my stuff today! Its a bit overwhelming since to get all the different stuff I want Im going to be ordering from 5 or more places. Not to mention the start up cost for good quality tools.

You mentioned the Douglas Awl blade was backordered. Do you know if that was for a specific size? I was going to order one but if thats the case I think I will order the Vergez Blanchard awl.

Will you be using the compass to scratch a line for your stitching or are you planning on getting some type of groover as well?

38mm awl works best for 9spi. I forgot to mention you will need a sharpening stone as the awl is not as sharp as it can be on a stock vergez. pricking wheel and overstitch wheel can be interchangeable and you use one or the other never both unless the wheel is used to mark the backside. You can use an overstitch wheel and angle the blade to 45 degrees or use a pricking iron in its place, both are the same distance in spi. I wouldn't use a groove with a pricking iron, they are used with overstitch wheel and the stitches end up straight. With pricking irons the stitch ends up slanted. Linen thread 532 fil au chinois .57mm works for 9 spi and .8mm works for 7 and lower.

A good starting place is to use a overstitch and get a handle of getting the 45 degrees using your eye and then switch to 9spi or whichever spi you like and learn from there.

If you just want the basic tools that you can work with and then get better ones you can get a kit here

http://www.goodsjapan.jp/item/leather-craft-items-leathercra/craft-sha-leather-craft-kit-st/lid=29749092

awl comes sharp and all tools are better than tandy but not as good as high end tools.

[DireWolf]

Benefits/drawbacks for hammer vs. mauls (re: Barry King versions)?

I assume the straight vs. angle is a matter of striking angle, which will be a function of ergonomics - but I may be wrong there.

[californianinkansas]

This is an extremely helpful thread for my complete newbie self (I'm still at the learning-on-paracord stage). Thank you all for sharing your experience and wisdom. I'd rather save up and purchase a tool that will last a lifetime.

Best Regards,

Amber

[terrymac]

Just to let everyone know, Barry King is selling awl blades. I just received a 11/2" model and it is hands above the Vergez Blanchard I also recently acquired. Even after sharpening the Vergez awl on a 8000 grit diamond stone, it is not as sharp as the King model. I can't compare it to the Douglas awl as I have never tried one. Was going to order one, but didn't want to wait so went with the King blade, and glad I did. Everything I have ever bought from him has been excellent quality. You might also want to check several videos Nigel Armitage has on You Tube, as they are extremely helpful and full of information. He does most everything in 7spi, and highly recommends tiger Thread. I use the 1mm at 7 spi, and it looks great. King sells the awl haft as well does Ed the Bearman. He is member of this forum and makes the finest maul on the market. The Vergez awl comes with the blade permanently attached so would not be a candidate for a different blade.

Hope this helps,

Terry

[DavidL]

Just to let everyone know, Barry King is selling awl blades. I just received a 11/2" model and it is hands above the Vergez Blanchard I also recently acquired. Even after sharpening the Vergez awl on a 8000 grit diamond stone, it is not as sharp as the King model. I can't compare it to the Douglas awl as I have never tried one. Was going to order one, but didn't want to wait so went with the King blade, and glad I did. Everything I have ever bought from him has been excellent quality. You might also want to check several videos Nigel Armitage has on You Tube, as they are extremely helpful and full of information. He does most everything in 7spi, and highly recommends tiger Thread. I use the 1mm at 7 spi, and it looks great. King sells the awl haft as well does Ed the Bearman. He is member of this forum and makes the finest maul on the market. The Vergez awl comes with the blade permanently attached so would not be a candidate for a different blade.

Hope this helps,

Terry

my vergez awl is really, really sharp, probably at the bob douglas awl level (funny how i keep referring to it but i have never got my hands on it).

Sharpen on a rough stone and then progress to a fine stone then finish off with green compound on a strop. Before the compound the awl was not that sharp.

More importantly to save cash go for the Dixon pricking iron if its 7 or under. Previously I haven't been hammereing hard enough and was hitting on an unstable surface giving a bad impression on the leather. A dixon pricking iron at 7 spi is 70 dollars vs vergez 220 dollars and for me works fine. It does need to be grinded down on a stone manually - roughly 10-15 minutes and it was in perfect condition. If you buy from dixon directly they can grind the teeth down the proper size. Vergez is a pretty looking tool which has no flaws, but a huge price tag.

[Mike 257]

Looks like you ordered some great stuff from what research I have done.

Im going to start ordering my stuff today! Its a bit overwhelming since to get all the different stuff I want Im going to be ordering from 5 or more places. Not to mention the start up cost for good quality tools.

You mentioned the Douglas Awl blade was backordered. Do you know if that was for a specific size? I was going to order one but if thats the case I think I will order the Vergez Blanchard awl.

Will you be using the compass to scratch a line for your stitching or are you planning on getting some type of groover as well?

I do have a compass coming in hopefully this week , but I also want a stitch groover . Im just not sure which one I want yet . ALL Douglas blades are on backorder, They will notify me when they are in .

Edited April 13, 2014 by Mike 257

[Mike 257]

Benefits/drawbacks for hammer vs. mauls (re: Barry King versions)?

I assume the straight vs. angle is a matter of striking angle, which will be a function of ergonomics - but I may be wrong there.

I just got my Barry King maul (tapered) , Im getting used to it. I find myself not holding it in the right angle and seems like I had a few miss strikes . When I am conscious of how Im holding it , then it is very comfortable to use. I am thinking of ordering a straight one just so I have both .

[mrtreat32]

Thanks everyone. Lots of helpful info!

I placed orders the other day and have already racked up quite a bill. Pretty sure I have most of the tools I need to start out and a few I realize now probably didnt need right away. But since everyone had such great info I feel good that I got some quality stuff that should last me a long time and wont feel the urge to upgrade in 3 months.

Next purchase is going to need to be some leather so I can actually start learning how to use all the tools I ordered. Was gonna ask for recommendations.

I mentioned earlier that the stuff Im interested in working on would mostly be accessories (wallets, key chains, straps and pockets for canvas bags, belts etc).

I dont have any interest as of now in carving or dying my own leather. Do you have a recommendation for a quality leather that won't break the bank for small accessories projects? What is a good all around oz to learn on that's good for those kinds of projects?

I like the look of Tanner Goods which lists 3.5 oz/tooling leather. Should I mostly be looking at the "tooling" section on the supply sites (I'm on Maverik). They look similiar to "veg shoulder," but I'm not sure what that is. I also really like chromoexcel but is that going to be pricey?

I know a lot of people on here dye their own leather. Is there a specific type of leather that they use or do they use natural?

I'm sorry for all the questions. I've looked around on other questions but haven't seen these specific questions answered. You guys have been a big help.

Edited April 14, 2014 by mrtreat32

[DavidL]

excel is 10 a sq foot. at springfield leather company. idk what to tell you about dyed leathers that are cheap. I dye all my leathers by hand. Hand dyed leather for me doesn't look that good. Oil tan, pull up and latigo are leathers you should look at. Bridle, veg tan goat, box calf are the highest on the range, but do not start with these it will be wasted on beginner errors and probably not at all if you do not plan to sell online.