Sewing With Tiger Thread- Thread Is Too Thick

[DavidL]

I have been listening to him. I'm just trying to get more information thats all. I've tested all the possibilities over the 100 plus hours i've put in. The backside however only ever looked proper while using poly round thread 1mm. Whatever you see in nigels videos is the same technique I'm using, with the exception I'm right handed and the left needle goes in first. I also don't throw loop because I'm trying to get that hermes angled backstitch and after viewing footage they also don't throw the loop.

It could be left to two variables my awl - need a wider flatter awl and the leather - need some sort of goat vegetable tanned . Another possibility is that hermes workers use an inverse pricking iron and hit it from the backside that they do not show in the videos. Any one have down the infamous hermes stitch (none of the thread touches the opposite thread) or do I have to spend the 12 grand to learn from a hermes worker do you think?

[cjmt]

I have been listening to him. I'm just trying to get more information thats all. I've tested all the possibilities over the 100 plus hours i've put in. The backside however only ever looked proper while using poly round thread 1mm. Whatever you see in nigels videos is the same technique I'm using, with the exception I'm right handed and the left needle goes in first. I also don't throw loop because I'm trying to get that hermes angled backstitch and after viewing footage they also don't throw the loop.

It could be left to two variables my awl - need a wider flatter awl and the leather - need some sort of goat vegetable tanned . Another possibility is that hermes workers use an inverse pricking iron and hit it from the backside that they do not show in the videos. Any one have down the infamous hermes stitch (none of the thread touches the opposite thread) or do I have to spend the 12 grand to learn from a hermes worker do you think?

I don't think they stitch mark the reverse, very difficult to not make a mess of it. i think they are just good at it. Stitching takes years to perfect and to make every stitch the same you have to do exactly the same thing every single time, thats much much harder than it sounds.

This is a prototype of mine looking at the reverse side. It hasn't had the edges or card slots skived as its just a mockup.You can see I haven't got the stitching quite right in the thicker areas (tension by the look of it) but its probably as your aiming for in the centre. Its just normal saddle stitch with a reasonably well struck blachard pricking iron

[DavidL]

The issue is partly because i haven't put my years in. It's not that the backside is sometimes angled and off, its always straight, even using .6mm at 7spi. There is no angle for some odd reason, is it because I'm pulling straight out? I've got no more leather pieces to practice on until my shipment arrives so I can't try it out. Blanchard or dixon iron for me gives the same issue regardless of thread thickness- tiger or fil au chinois.

[cjmt]

The issue is partly because i haven't put my years in.....

This - it takes years and dedication. Just because someone makes something look easy doesnt mean it is! (Armitage et al..)

Charlie