Newbie in Michigan. Need help with holster

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I would recommend this as a good place for you to start.

http://www.eleatherworks.com/product.php?p...=503&page=1

Decent holster leather that isn't too expensive, and enough there to let you mess up once or twice.

Edited October 16, 2008 by BOOMSTICKHolsters

[Snakebyte]

Thanks for the link. Any tips on specific needles to use? I have been told waxed linen is good for thread. Thoughts?

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I'm definitely not a hand stitching expert. When I hand stitched my holsters, I used a lock stitch so I had a sewing awl and a punch. That was a difficult way to do it, and I would actually recommend the two needle method.

I suggest you give Kevin a call at Springfield Leather and tell him what you are trying to do, and ask which needles and thread you will need. He will take good care of you.

[Snakebyte]

OK, in the second post, you mention rectangle 1 and 3 tang punches for making stitching holes and getting straight stitching lines with a plastic mallet/hammer.

Are these an alternative to an oversticher, and punch/awl? Is this easier to keep straight? I plan on doing the saddle stich(I think) the one with two needles. Thanks, Jeff

[WaG35]

OK, in the second post, you mention rectangle 1 and 3 tang punches for making stitching holes and getting straight stitching lines with a plastic mallet/hammer.

Are these an alternative to an oversticher, and punch/awl? Is this easier to keep straight? I plan on doing the saddle stich(I think) the one with two needles. Thanks, Jeff

What they are talking about would be in place of the stitch wheel for marking the stitches. Personally I don't punch my holes, I drill them with a 1/16th bit after grooving and marking w/ an overstitch wheel(I think mine is 5 stitches per inch) Hope this helps.

Edited November 20, 2008 by WaG35

[Lobo]

I like simple solutions for simple problems. Here are my suggestions, based upon 36 years of holster-making (and using them during my 24 year law enforcement career):

1. Leather: for lighter-weight pistols, 6-7 oz. vegetable tanned works well; for larger and heavier pistols, 8-9 oz. provides better service over the long term.

2. Tools: sharp utility knife (an Xacto knife can be handy as well), overstitching wheel (6 stitches per inch works well), stitching groover, stitching awl, harness needles, waxed thread (synthetics like polyester or nylon work very well). These are the basics; I talk a little about others as we go along, but you can improvise.

3. Execution:

-trace the exact outline of the pistol on heavy paper (manila file folders work well)

-draw two parallel lines horizontally through the pistol outline at the point you wish for the holster to ride on your belt. Note: belt size is critical to how the holster will ride, so make belt loops or slots to the exact size of the belt to be used.

-draw the outline of the holster shape. Note: allow clearance around all handgun "controls"; you don't want your holster to pop the magazine release or slip the safety off. Also, I like to allow as much clearance as possible around the handgun grip so that a proper "shooting grip" can be taken during the draw, and you don't have to shift the pistol in your hand prior to engaging a target.

-measure the thickness of the pistol, divide that by two, then draw an outline around your pistol tracing to identify your stitching lines.

-transfer your pattern onto your leather. A standard #2 pencil works well to mark your pieces for cutting.

-cut your pieces, mate them together, and cement them in the areas where they will be sewn together. Contact cement works best, but for a one-time or occasional project good old Elmer's Glue works quite well. Note: when cutting, don't try to force it; two or three passes with the knife will result in a better job than one heavy push that will rip and tear all over the place.

-lay your pattern over the outer holster piece, use the overstitching wheel to mark the stitching lines around the pistol. The points on the stitching wheel will mark right through the manila file folder material, leaving an easy to follow pattern on the leather.

-set your stitching groover to about 3/16", then cut a stitching groove around the perimeter of the holster on the outer side, then use the overstitching wheel to complete the stitching pattern (from the lines around the pistol, connecting with all the perimeter to be sewn).

-use the stitching awl and mallet or hammer to pierce all stitching holes

-using two harness needles and your thread, saddle-stitch the pieces (one needle at each end of about 5 or 6 feet of thread, through the first hole then matching up the thread on each side to even lengths, then through each stitching hole with one needle from one side then the other needle from the other side, pulling snugly every second or third stitch to a uniform tension). Note: make your final stitch along an edge, pushing the needles through between the leather to the outside, then tie a knot inside the two pieces of leather. The small "bump" of the knot can be smoothed out during the wet-forming process, and you won't have to worry about the stitching coming loose.

-for a pancake design, now is the time to cut your belt slots. Try a 1/4" hole at each end of the slots, then use a sharp wood chisel to complete the slots. Then dress the edges of the cuts to a smooth finish.

-after stitching, thoroughly wet the sewn holster, then force the pistol into its position inside. Using a smooth, rounded tool (like the handle of your overstitcher), gently and firmly work over the formed holster to force a very tight molding around the outline and details of the pistol). Note: try and leave the gun unloaded during this operation! Also, now is a good time to insert your belt through the loops and pull those into the final form desired and needed.

-allow the holster to air-dry with the pistol in it for an hour or two (depending upon weather and humidity, this time can vary. I live in Colorado, where we have very little humidity and the leather dries quickly. You may have to adjust).

-When the leather has begun to dry, remove the pistol and allow the holster to complete drying. This allows a small amount of shrinkage, thus a tighter final fit. Final drying will probably take 12 to 24 hours. Clean and oil the pistol now, don't let it rust up on you!

-good time to dress all of your edges, removing any irregularities. A belt sander works great. A small drum sander chucked into a drill press works wonders in tight areas. A nice even surface is what is required. Careful with the sanding process, it is easy to build up too much heat and scorch the leather.

-burnish the edges, if desired. A wooden thread spool with a bolt or machine screw through the hole, then chucked into a drill press, will polish the edges very quickly, and the little lip on the thread spool will work the cut edges down very nicely.

-when fully dry, apply any dyes that you wish to use and allow that to completely dry.

-I like to apply a moderate amount of neatsfoot oil compound at this point for long-term protection of the leather. Using a swab or brush, apply the neatsfoot oil liberally, then set the piece aside for an hour or two to allow the leather to fully absorb the oil. Too much oil will make the leather limp, thus pretty useless for the intended purpose, so don't over-do the oil.

-apply your final finish. I like Fiebings Bag Kote for an eggshell luster. If you want a higher gloss, try Leather Sheen.

Final step: strap it on your belt, insert your sidearm, and call it a done deal. Assuming you are going to rely on this rig for self-defense, practice with the holster and your pistol (unloaded, of course) for 5 minutes every day until the act of drawing the pistol becomes part of your memory, as familiar to you as picking your nose. Should the day ever come when you have to deal with a threat warranting deadly force, you don't want to have to stop and think about what you are doing; you want it to be an automatic response, smooth and natural.

I hope this helps you. When I started in 1972 I didn't have a clue. I just kept making another one until I got what I wanted. Other cops starting coming to me and wanting a holster for their new gun, so I kept getting more experience. Now I turn out 12 to 20 per week, and I still keep coming up with a little innovation from time to time. Keeps an old retired copper out of trouble, and provides a little income to cover my beer and poker money.

My latest project: a holster for a retired copper who can't wear a belt because of an old back injury. I just love a challenge now and then! Pictures attached. Horizontal shoulder holster with thumb-break, suede leather shoulder piece to carry the weight gently, 1.5" suspender strap with alligator clips to connect to the waistband. Very comfortable!

Best regards.

Lobo Gun Leather, serious equipment for serious business.

Colorado Territory, USA

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[Snakebyte]

In post 5, I added an attachment to show the holster I would like. Any idea on the edge? How in the world do they get it like that? I am working on some stingray now, and just get white spots on it...

[MBOGO]

It appears to be a finely finished edge, maybe on some sharkskin. Sanding and burnishing. How's it coming?

[trugley]

I am just trying this out myself and found this site that may help you a bit. http://unblinkingeye.com/Guns/Holsters/holsters.html