I Need Your Help Again With Needles...sorry

[IslandMoose]

My Adler 67 takes 134 system needles, this is certain. The largest needle that came with the machine was a Groz Beckert 110/18 labelled as:

134

DPx5

135x5

135x7

797

SY 1955

I ordered a packet of Schmetz 130/21 as required for my heavy canvas work. These needles are labelled:

NM:130 SIZE:21

Canu:32:10 1

134-35

2134-35

DPx35

Here's the problem, the needle rubs hard against the hook mechanism. This of course is not good.

The bigger needle is also much longer.

Have I selected the wrong needle or do I need to make an adjustment? All of this needle carry on has set me back a month now, I must buy needles online and I thought I had it sorted.

Please help.

John

[Constabulary]

Needles of different length of course do not work without adjusting the needle bar since the hook cannot catch the thread loop.

Isn't it the machine with the big cut out you recently haven bought? So in Your case the hooks seems to be on the left side instead of the right side. Are you sure you insert the needle correctly the way that the needle scarf faces toward the hook? See picture for what the "scraf" is.

In case the needle then still rubs against the hook you probably have to move the hook mechanism away from the needle just a tiny bit.

[IslandMoose]

Hi Constabulary,

It is the Adler 67AE, with the hook on the left of the needle. I thread right to left with the groove on the right, scarf on the left. I can feel the scarf rubbing down the hook/case body then "catching" on the way back up as the scarf passes over. Because of my big AE hole I can actually see what's going on, the needle is well against the case.

I think I may have to move the hook over a half mm, time to struggle through my cryptic service manual again. The illustrations are like impressionist artwork.

John

[Constabulary]

I guess it is the long needle that it rubbing, right? Then you have to adjust the needle bar. The hook point has to meet the needle scarf in the upward moment. If the needle is too long the hook hits the needle above the scarf.

[stanly]

My Adler 67 takes 134 system needles, this is certain. The largest needle that came with the machine was a Groz Beckert 110/18 labelled as:

134

DPx5

135x5

135x7

797

SY 1955

I ordered a packet of Schmetz 130/21 as required for my heavy canvas work. These needles are labelled:

NM:130 SIZE:21

Canu:32:10 1

134-35

2134-35

DPx35

Here's the problem, the needle rubs hard against the hook mechanism. This of course is not good.

The bigger needle is also much longer.

have I selected the wrong needle or do I need to make an adjustment? All of this needle carry on has set me back a month now, I must buy needles online and I thought I had it sorted.

Please help.

John

I think changing needles (grind down shank) makes more sense than adjusting machine to accommodate needles

needle that was in machine was working ok? I'd have talk w/ whoever u ordered from

Edited May 7, 2014 by stanly

[IslandMoose]

I don't think there's be enough shank left if I did that, the difference in length is about 8mm. I should clarify that the needle doesn't hit the hook, when the needle is at it lowest point of motion, It is hard up against the body of the hook mechanism.

I'll raise the needle bar to accomodate the longer needle, but I'm worried that it's still going to hit the hook body. How does one separate the two? I can time the hook, but how do you "move it over"?

Edited May 7, 2014 by IslandMoose

[Constabulary]

Grinding down needles is not a good idea as long as you can buy needles for your machine.

I don´t know how the Adler looks from below but I think they are very similar to Pfaff.

Here are pictures of an older Pfaff.

In my case you have to loosen the 2 bolts which attach the hook bracket to the housing and the 2 screws that hold the gear on the hook drive shaft. The 2 Bolt are probably very tight! But thats it - then you can move the gear and hook bracket.

It should look very similar at your machine. If not post a picture of your machine shown from below.

[IslandMoose]

I must have been reading your mind. Here's a photo of the needle-hook strike and the underside of the machine.

What average gap should I aim for between needle and hook?

Tight? You're not kidding....I might need my air gun.

[IslandMoose]

I've spotted and corrected a problem, I now have the hook passing through the centre of the scarf on the way up, but the needle is still too close by about 1mm.

I guess I'll have to get some penetrating fluid for those set screws on the gear. I can't move them, and none of my screwdrivers fit them very well.

[Constabulary]

In my Singer manual I read this:

... If the needle bar and sewing hook are correctly timed, the point of the hook will be at the center of the needle about 1/16 inch above the eye.

(That is about 1.6 millimeter)

and

...To prevent the point of the hook from dividing the strands of the thread, it should run as close to the needle (within the scarf) as possible

Since the mechanism is quite similar it should work for your Adler as well.

But it may require some additional minimal adjustments... You probably have to play a little bit with the settings.

Edited May 8, 2014 by Constabulary

[IslandMoose]

Sorted by moving the hook carrier about a mm away from the needle. This allowed the needle to just clear the hook body.

I think the hook has seen a lot of miles, but I tested it this morning and it sews very well.

The 21 needle has also solved the problem of the knot on the bottom.

Very pleased, thank you.

Btw. The servo motor, which is full programmable, is incredible, I have it slowed down to a crawl, and it gas incredible punching power.

Now to get sewing.

[Constabulary]

Awesome - Nice to hear that everything works!

Which motor are you using now? Can you post a picture?

[IslandMoose]

Awesome - Nice to hear that everything works!

Which motor are you using now? Can you post a picture?

It's a Powermax, which I'm sure is a locally-branded Chinese motor, but is fantastic, 40 programmable settings, including custom mapping of the pedal response.

[Constabulary]

can you run it with and without the positioning sensor?

Does it look like this one form the backside?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161293021766

Edited May 10, 2014 by Constabulary

[IslandMoose]

Yes, I've yet to use the positioning sensor in fact.

John

[Constabulary]

But you have not tried without the sensor, right?

Your motor also has 550 Watts?

I just contacted the Ebay seller and he replied within 30 minutes and sent the the manual of the motor and told me it is a new model which works with and even without the positioning sensor! I will red it later and see if something is mentioned in there.

[IslandMoose]

Sorry, I don't even have the sensor. It was extra and I didn't want it.

Here it is set at about 80 spm.

Going through some 1/8" leather I use for wrapping oars at the oar locks.

[Constabulary]

Nice + Slow - I like it!

By the way - the thread guide on your needle bar is missing!

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Back to basics!

DPX5 and DPX35 are two different needles.

Get the right needle for the machine before doing anything else.