Terminology And Tannage Types

[Cletus2014]

These questions are probably obvious to many, but after some searching around here I'm still confused about a few things. I know (or I'm pretty sure anyway) that some of the different leathers - and I'm mostly thinking cow and horse - are defined by the part of the hide, shoulder, belly, bend, etc. that they're cut from, but can also be defined by the type of tanning process used, which confuses us tyros even more.

Anyway, I think I'm looking for some plain old "vegetable tanned" leather, as opposed to chrome, brain, oil, or otherwise chemical tanned. Problem is, suppliers don't seem to specify leather as simply being veg tanned. My guess is that Tooling Sides, or Tooling Leather is what I'm looking for, but I can't be sure. Can someone please define "Tooling Leather"? I don't plan on doing any actual tooling or surface designs, just little projects like cases, sheaths, wallets, maybe some molded/shaped items and stuff like that.

Isn't 'tooling leather' pretty much the same as all-purpose veg tanned leather? I know there's really no "all-purpose" leather, but hopefully you get what I mean.

What about Latigo? From reading I understand this is normally belly leather, but isn't this also vegetable tanned, suitable for these kinds of projects too? I realize Latigos can be heavy/thick leathers, but can't this be skiver or thinned down for straps and things? - Also planning to use Latigo for my tool strops, any comments there? Thinking Latigos tend NOT to be too stretchy?

Last, what about oil tanned leathers? Is this similar to chrome tanned leather? Typically stretchy, like Chromexcel?

Thanks, as always for your advice!

[Chief31794]

Tooling leather from reputable suppliers is Vegetable Tanned Leather. Veg Tan is sold as sides, bends, bellies, shoulders, double shoulders, etc. They are different and used for particular applications, however, most of it is interchangeable with the exception of Belly, it is used mostly for cases and goods that don't require as much strength and resistance to stretching. Springfield leather is the only one I know of that sells pieces of leather in as small as 2 sq ft pieces, most sell by the side, shoulder, double shoulder, Bend, Double Bend, etc. Tandy has a information section on their website, that explains where all the cuts come from I think Springfield does as well and RJF leather has a diagram showing where the different cuts of leather are taken from. I'm pretty sure most of the suppliers do.

Hope that helps,

Chief

Edited May 10, 2014 by Chief31794

[Cletus2014]

Hope that helps,

Chief

Thanks Chief and yes, it does help. Primarily your answer to the question of tooling leather - that was what I was really looking for. I've seen the charts of cow hides and horse hides broken out into cuts, as you mentioned, but those diagrams often don't tell the whole story, since leather can be tanned in many different ways.

Anyway, I'm now pretty sure the tooling leather pieces I've ordered from Springfield Leather will be what I was looking for. Thanks again for your reply!

[Sovran81]

Latigo is either a veg tan or dual tan including veg tan. It is impregnated with oils and waxes to make it weather resistant. It softens up faster with use and is unsuitable for tooling because it wont hold an impression (or molding) very well. An excellent material for reins and other outdoor gear. It comes in many cuts, mostly whole sides and bellies. Bellies are unsuitable for straps due to the amount of stretch which is why they are common to find in leather shops. The shop uses the prime portion and doesnt use the belly.

[DavidL]

Anyone know the difference between latigo and bridle? Both are impregnated w/ oils, what are the differences in the manufacturing process? Bridle leather is known to be the best grade or name of leather, is it better harvested hides?

[Colt Hammerless]

As far as I know, bridle is always a straight vegetable tanned leather, with oils and waxes added to make it weather resistant, as well as locking in the dyes (bridle is usually drum dyed at the tannery, although I believe RJF leather has natural colored bridle as well.) As mentioned above latigo is usually either veg-tanned then tanned again (re-tanned) as a mineral/chrome tanned, or mineral/chrome tanned first then vegetable re-tanned. Although some are only veg tanned (Wickett and Craig.) In that case I'm not quite sure what the difference would be. Perhaps simply a difference in the waxes and finishes.

Paul

[Sovran81]

I have only had 1 side of bridle and really wasn't satisfied with it. It was a substitution for a latigo order which I oked after talking to the shop owner. I thought it would be dyed through which it wasn't. it was also harder and stiffer. I believe from a rolling press operation. It felt like it had more wax then oil in it and what surprised me the most was when folding around a ring, the grain cracked. The only way I could prevent the cracking was to split the 9oz down to 5-6oz before the ring. At the time all my work was done with rivets and chicago screws so splitting required buying more hardware that fit the split thickness. I probably got a bad hide but I found ways to use it and now stick with latigo for strap and belt work. I cant afford $250-300 mistakes on a side. I dont tool and mostly make light harness with the latigo.

[DavidL]

I have only had 1 side of bridle and really wasn't satisfied with it. It was a substitution for a latigo order which I oked after talking to the shop owner. I thought it would be dyed through which it wasn't. it was also harder and stiffer. I believe from a rolling press operation. It felt like it had more wax then oil in it and what surprised me the most was when folding around a ring, the grain cracked. The only way I could prevent the cracking was to split the 9oz down to 5-6oz before the ring. At the time all my work was done with rivets and chicago screws so splitting required buying more hardware that fit the split thickness. I probably got a bad hide but I found ways to use it and now stick with latigo for strap and belt work. I cant afford $250-300 mistakes on a side. I dont tool and mostly make light harness with the latigo.

Which brand was the bridle?

[Sovran81]

I dont know. Tt was what my local North Carolina shop carries. Like I said its the only experience I have had with bridle and may have been a bad hide.