howler Report post Posted May 11, 2014 In the photo is an Osborne skiving knife I just bought from http://www.handtools-uk.com/ In the photo the bevelled edge of the blade is uppermost. Here's the web page:- http://www.handtools-uk.com/p1586-skiving-knife-osborne-ref-469b-uk-right-hand-us-left The knife is described as :- Skiving Knife Osborne Ref 469B (UK Right Hand US Left). I live in the UK and I'm right handed. OK so what's the problem? You can see from the angle of the knife in my photo that it would be OK for me, as a right-handed person, to do some paring by pushing the knife away from me with the bevelled side uppermost. The problem is that on page 15 of my Al Stohlman book (http://www.amazon.com/Leathercraft-Tools-Al-Stohlman/dp/1892214903) Al is telling me that the bevelled edge should be underneath against the leather. The illustration in the Stohlman book shows a right-handed person holding the knife but the angle on the blade goes the opposite way to mine. I'm guessing his illustration shows the 469A version of the knife as opposed to my 469B version. (the difference between the 469A and 469B versions is shown here https://www.osborneleathertools.com/category.php?cid=5). If I was to use my knife with the bevelled side down then the blade would be at the wrong angle for me to pare leather by pushing the knife away from me. (The blade would be perpendicular to my body). My questions for the forum are:- 1) Does the bevelled edge really have to be on the underside? (My knife seems to cut well whether the bevel is up or down) 2) Does anyone know why the knife I've bought is called "Right Hand" in the UK and "Left Hand" in the US? The guy I spoke to at the UK store couldn't really explain this. 3) Can anyone verify that the knife I've bought is OK for a right-handed person to use? 4) Is all this "UK Right Hand US Left" stuff just complete bollocks? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted May 11, 2014 I have the tool as you and i don't like it at all !! I like this style a lot better http://www.handtools-uk.com/product_info.php?products_id=1605 . Personally i want the bevel on top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
howler Report post Posted May 11, 2014 Thanks Is it good for skiving 4mm strap ends down to 2mm for attaching a buckle? Regards Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted May 12, 2014 http://www.handtools-uk.com/p116-round-knife-osborne-ref-70 This is the best knife for all skiving applications and is sharpened with equal bevels on both sides. The one you purchased would be limited to straps that are not as wide as the blade or edge beveling around a larger piece. In use RH the bevel is up like a plane would be and the point is to the left, just off the material being skived. It is designated RH LH because it can be used left handed but must be handled as for right handed use. In order to use for true LH the blade must be resharpened so the bevel will still be up. Not a very good tool IMHO. Very specialized for strap workers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
howler Report post Posted May 12, 2014 Thanks for your reply oltoot. I already own an Osborne Head knife (Ref 71) http://www.handtools-uk.com/p1346-head-knife-osborne-ref-71 which is very useful but I find it difficult for skiving strap ends for buckles (may just be lack of practice or not sharp enough). Is it worth me buying a Round Knife (Ref 70) too or should I persist with the Head Knife? Would you agree with Al Stohlman's book where he says :- "the Head knife is more practical than the Round knife for all round use as you can do all skiving with it, and the narrower points are much better for cutting purposes"? Regards Pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted May 13, 2014 If you already have the 71 learn to sharpen it and to use it. Whichever will require a learning curve but if you stick with it it will be well worth it. For either one with strap ends use the side of the blade, approximately the 1/3 from the tip to the beginning of the steepest part of the curve. Steady the blade with your index and second fingers out of the handle grip and pointing in the direction of the strap. Above all learn to sharpen it and strop often when in use. I have both 70 and71 and prefer the 70 but that is partially because the steel in the 70 is better and the blade is thinner and easier to sharpen. Bit I have another 70 that has the same steel as the 71. I use them all and they all have their place so I guess the bottom line is that you can learn to use any of them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites