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About oltoot

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  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    General horse related

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaker, retired now
  • Interested in learning about
    tools, supplies
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  1. my preferred option for scoped rifles , was on the near side, nearly straight up and down with the scope forward. This provided for easy and smooth quiet out when dismounted or dismounting. Slight tilt to the rear allowed for stable attachment. Bulk of the bulk was just clear of the knee. A permanent strap could go through the fork of the saddle with the top strap attached to it. Bottom strap was adjusted to balance the rig.
  2. The oldtimers used aspen as cutting board surfaces. That has been replaced by the white plastic used on butcher blocks. I still have some big aspen timbers left. I had them cut and dried as 4x12's when there were still a few mills cutting big aspen. I was into my last cutting board and decided to retire when I couldn't get anymore (and my shaky hands were getting worse, too)
  3. were available in several sizes (wire guages of thickest part of the shaft) with #9 being the most commonly used. The large hole sideways on a rivit set tool is for forcing the washer down past the tapered end and onto the straight base.
  4. GOOD FIND. I (79+) learned to handsew (Alpine, texas 1970-73) at one of these with jaws lined with a pair of folded brass sheets. The seat wear came from the rivets on jean pockets and some of the holes between the front of the seat leather and back of the jaws were most likely as a result of sticking the awl in order to have both hands free to adjust the piece.
  5. just a thought: move hobble hangers to rear concho or tree mounted place in between so hobbles, when carried, will not get tangled up in flank cinch
  6. Looks great overall. Seat a little high in front (or low in back, or strongly sloping, or?) for my personal tastes, middle strings could start out longer (you can always cut them off but splicing is a tad more difficult) repeat beginning for ending LGOA !!!
  7. Floral was easier for me before even that wasn't. I did some oak leaf but I always had to draw them out, in detail on paper first, then trace. That was just me, though!
  8. chk this out https://gfeller.us/lace-master/ easier, if still available
  9. When I was making a few of them, I arrived at this very good combination: For the parts that would be next to the chain; #9 black boot soles (rectangular sheets of material) ;black latigo for straps; black chap for gussets and for the rest; black harness leather
  10. second from left I have used as a stitch ripper for things that I couldn't otherwise get to.
  11. 16 oz maul for most stamping, 48 oz for geometric, 8 pound for punching or die cutting (also mallets range from 8 oz to 4 lbs)
  12. Great idea!!! Would add, make marks while seated on or as would be a horse then when making a paper pattern add +/- 1/4", depending on how tight the pants fit from the knee up, then measure hardware that will be used how it will be used to come up with final shape for leather
  13. Think about sitting on a horse and, for show chaps, what to emphasize and what to distract attention (judge's) from
  14. made mine adjustable in the back, as well, with a 232 buckle
  15. Monte Foreman put out a book, I think. Trees were custom made. All-in-all, try to convince customer that it should not have been allowed to use word balanced. Required tension for 'balance'
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