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oltoot

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About oltoot

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    oldcoot1913@outlook.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wyoming
  • Interests
    General leather related

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaker
  • Interested in learning about
    tools, supplies
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  1. Little bit but, if you don't sew the cap till last, you can pull and stretch things in line a little better from an additional direction
  2. Final use of the "chinaman" (greased w/ liquid soap) and then repulling ends and smoothing before drying
  3. What you seem to want is probably old harness making stuff, most likely found in Amish or Mennonite junk piles. Would require in person looking or some sort of connection to that community, possibly via some draft horse shows?
  4. FYI and IMHO: Toward the end of my using and making era (~3 yrs ago), I went from similar design to using another screw on top and other tweaks to result in more stable arrangement with more of saddle hand hole availability.
  5. Measure around your biggest horse's neck and be sure that you leave enough extra on the end to buckle around as a neck rope, when needed.
  6. This is what I'm talkin about, unbuckled-hangs straight down
  7. Good point, with custom-ask, with stock, how about both places?
  8. look good, would add magnets for nails
  9. Double ring (or square) is best and provides versatile strap
  10. Originally, machinist's but now quite versatile
  11. As an only machine, probably not, as part of a collection, definitely, Value question already addressed
  12. You will find that mallet/maul weight matched to tool has a lot to do with it. Being able to pick a 'whacker' that is just right and needs only gravity and guidance will help a lot (over the years, I have accumulated~ 20 different weights from 6 oz to 3 lbs and use them all in a large, complex pattern) I find that with practice (years) I can control the force delivered more exactly and switch less often.
  13. This is an old thread but just remember that, so far, there is no bureau of standards for this stuff so you can only count on personal experience with a treemaker. You (I mean they) can call them anything they decide to. It will be helpful in understanding the dynamics to get individual bars (not trees) and set them on horses to really see things like angle, rocker, flare, etc. That will also help you see the value of and places for rounded edges. Progress with pads has made it easier. Get several pads to extend the useful range of a saddle but remember that the best and most stable result comes from the least amount of pad necessary to make a good even match for weight bearing (horse) and weight distributing (Saddle) surfaces
  14. It helps a lot with bargrounding to have assorted weights of mallets/mauls so that you can match strike weight to tool size and desired depth
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