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oltoot

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About oltoot

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    oldcoot1913@outlook.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wyoming
  • Interests
    General horse related

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaker, retired now
  • Interested in learning about
    tools, supplies
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    link

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  1. My guess is a veg tan, spray dyed. I would need to feel it to say more
  2. be careful as too aggressive heats up the ends and you loose temper. Try taking sheets of sandpaper of varying grits on your marble slab and finish off with a gentle hand and a rolling motion.
  3. I think there was a pictorial in the first Al Stohlman saddle book with cased veg tan. The sash cord went through the cantle filler and cantle cover. They were first assembled cased and allowed to dry, then holes punched and binding fit, then removed, trimmed and replaced. (hint) pick translucent, not transparent rawhide piece
  4. Silla means chair, seat andSADDLE in Spanish
  5. "Britchen Rings Can be just an option so that a saddle can be used (with Britchen) on a mule or 'mutton withered' horse without sliding forward. Sounds like a good idea but need to know that saddle otherwise fits before relying on Britchen. Good for a saddle that will sometimes be used as a pack saddle. Could be a good tool, along with a range of pads in using one saddle on a variety of equines.
  6. Just sayin, to the general public and not to you---I generally refuse to make a saddle to "custom" dimensions, explained this way: a saddle has a fifty+ year life and a horse 20- so what are you going to do? Pads are much more flexible now so look to that as your short term solution for a misfit and pick a saddle to fit "general" types.
  7. If hardware is solid brass it is older if plated ,pre wwii if other metal, plated ww11 probably
  8. Ditto to all the cautions for elkhide. A good btw would be to note that bear hide woolies will hold up as I have actually put in quite a few hours of saddle time with a pair of them made on a self developed pattern for zippered woolies patched together with regular chap leather or easier to visualize the other way around, that is start with a pattern for zipper chaps and piece in the bear hide pieces on the outside with the chap leather next to horse. Seams are all vertical and this allows more flexibility in making hair alignment on bear hide to be vertical to shed water. One bear hide originally tanned for rug use will cut one pair of "hybrid" zipper shotguns. (note) the bear skin is really tough and can be shorn and shaved where it is to be joined with cow hide to make the joins smoother and smaller.
  9. re belt widths: As far as I know (80 yrs old) To match a pant that said it had belt loops of 2" ,which were stitch line distance on belt loops so then -1/16 accounts for material thickness and would fit. IOW the thing which came first (in this case the pant) got to control the size issue. And I learned the craft in a saddle shop in Texas so no problems with metric system. Never used tools made outside US so never had to consider differences.
  10. my preferred option for scoped rifles , was on the near side, nearly straight up and down with the scope forward. This provided for easy and smooth quiet out when dismounted or dismounting. Slight tilt to the rear allowed for stable attachment. Bulk of the bulk was just clear of the knee. A permanent strap could go through the fork of the saddle with the top strap attached to it. Bottom strap was adjusted to balance the rig.
  11. The oldtimers used aspen as cutting board surfaces. That has been replaced by the white plastic used on butcher blocks. I still have some big aspen timbers left. I had them cut and dried as 4x12's when there were still a few mills cutting big aspen. I was into my last cutting board and decided to retire when I couldn't get anymore (and my shaky hands were getting worse, too)
  12. were available in several sizes (wire guages of thickest part of the shaft) with #9 being the most commonly used. The large hole sideways on a rivit set tool is for forcing the washer down past the tapered end and onto the straight base.
  13. GOOD FIND. I (79+) learned to handsew (Alpine, texas 1970-73) at one of these with jaws lined with a pair of folded brass sheets. The seat wear came from the rivets on jean pockets and some of the holes between the front of the seat leather and back of the jaws were most likely as a result of sticking the awl in order to have both hands free to adjust the piece.
  14. just a thought: move hobble hangers to rear concho or tree mounted place in between so hobbles, when carried, will not get tangled up in flank cinch
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