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About oltoot

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    General horse related

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaker, retired now
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  1. Notice too, that that all stems from having used the stuff and knowing what works and doesn't before figuring out how to make it.
  2. Wild Horses were getting along with native wildlife before bison and Indians were killed off and replaced by domestic livestock and so on. How far back do you go to put things right? Today's wild horses must be managed, not eliminated
  3. Hardware can be pretty time specific. Brass is either new or pre war. Aluminum is newest (probably post war) while plated steel is from the war years, generally speaking. Screw heads have time periods, too.
  4. The "best way" and not too readily available way to start would be to repair a lot of stuff that is actually being used and make careful and complete observation of what works and doesn't.
  5. Probably made in Mexico in the 70's. Not buckstitched but painted
  6. The whole setup needs to fit snugly with the conformation of the horse including the connector from the middle to the cinch, then 3/4 is enough. If it is loose anywhere and can pop and jerk then stress is concentrated, not well distributed. Fit, fit!
  7. you may also be able to let the needle come up, catch the loop, then turn before the loop is pulled back down to the shuttle. Pressor foot should be free and loose at this point
  8. What I came up with was: shoe sole composite for side next to bike (chain & grease resistant) along with 9/10 oz black harness for gussets and 11/13 oz black harness for fronts and lids. Held shape and lasted well.
  9. Ride a lot first before settling on things like rigging design and seat shape. In all analysis, think about a naked man on a naked horse and enhance that relationship. Then focus on execution and eye appeal
  10. Roughly wet mold first, then stamp the stretched piece, then finish. If basket stamping, consider a wider, more overlapping border and touch the wet molded piece up a little before final assembly
  11. Sometimes I would use whatever was handy and maybe have 2 or more braided layers till I reached the core size I was after. Tended to make softer cores that way. But you could make them stiffer by braiding the cores smaller and tighter. 2 or more layer cores are not as fast to make but can be more challenging. The big bosal that I liked the best had a small twisted core with three tightly braided, small string layers over that. Really lively and springy but not steely. There is a difference when they are for sale vs personal use. Happy trails
  12. Take pics and use them to remind yourself why to never use ringshanks when making anything. Remember that you might be the one who has to repair whatever it is that you make
  13. The blade will end up being more important. And IMHO hollow ground is the way to go, all other things being equal, and you must have properly cased leather to start with.
  14. If you can get a hold of some saddle catalogues from the teens and twenties, that might help some.
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