oltoot

Floral was easier for me before even that wasn't. I did some oak leaf but I always had to draw them out, in detail on paper first, then trace. That was just me, though!

chk this out https://gfeller.us/lace-master/ easier, if still available

When I was making a few of them, I arrived at this very good combination: For the parts that would be next to the chain; #9 black boot soles (rectangular sheets of material) ;black latigo for straps; black chap for gussets and for the rest; black harness leather

second from left I have used as a stitch ripper for things that I couldn't otherwise get to.

16 oz maul for most stamping, 48 oz for geometric, 8 pound for punching or die cutting (also mallets range from 8 oz to 4 lbs)

Great idea!!! Would add, make marks while seated on or as would be a horse then when making a paper pattern add +/- 1/4", depending on how tight the pants fit from the knee up, then measure hardware that will be used how it will be used to come up with final shape for leather

Think about sitting on a horse and, for show chaps, what to emphasize and what to distract attention (judge's) from

made mine adjustable in the back, as well, with a 232 buckle

Monte Foreman put out a book, I think. Trees were custom made. All-in-all, try to convince customer that it should not have been allowed to use word balanced. Required tension for 'balance'

Best (but not without struggle) place for a swell cover is in the front leg crease. Horn hole right at the firm/stretchy break. (Transition from firm to belly, not either/or) Start at the horn hole, then the gullet and hand hole, then pull the front down starting where welts would be and then 'splitting' the gaps around and there will be no second trys, it will work the first time or go in the scrap box, and best shot is well cased, not real wet. I have even seen Little Wonders without welts but why? Welts are better on swells over 11" IMHO

Did you try Quality Mfg. in Monticello, Utah?

S K's and horses: Take the time it takes; don't rush

Another 'trick' . Rather than try to acquire and then ruin a series of stones, get a series of grit sandpapers from coarse to fine and lay a sheet of sandpaper down on your tooling or skiving place (big smooth spot) and back and forth with your blade in the little Tandy roller guide. When you have the metal 'scored' with a series of lines to match the grit then repeat with a finer grit till you are down to emory paper and just polishing. Finish with hard strop and enjoy!

It was good but things got better with Landis #3, #16, and so on . What is your budget? A modern Juki 441 clone would be better, but a #1 sure beat handsewing for lots of things.

And a book by Julie Hough on horsehair