oltoot
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I knew a few old quartermasters who assured me that the McLellan was primarily designed to be horse friendly not rider friendly but over time, improvements were made with the trooper in mind. The model in the pictured is the 1917, one of the most advanced but I never knew an old cavalry Sargent who wasn't one tough booger. Endurance saddles are much like them?
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Note that you can adopt this method for 2,3,4,etc strand loops. Be sure and save the dimensions when you get a twist worked out and it will all look smoother if you punch a small round hole at he end of each slit. Then when done correctly, reins are easy to move from one bit to another and if yo use a 4 strand twist with a pretty substantial turnback, you have reins with some pretty good weight for release
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I'm not very techy, I could send a pic from my Iphone if I had your email
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if for display, it has character the way it is so just clean it up a little, IMHO
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Bruce Grant, Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding, pg 47
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This may not help because it is old (50+ years) info but when I was first starting I had makers mark lines made as lines of type for setting in a printing press and then assembled them into an appropriate bundle in a holder/handle that I could whack to my heart's content then when impressions began to loose their crispness I would just change out the individual lines of which I had had to get 100 each in order to be served. Worked for 20 years until I could justify getting the real thing
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Fatter cattle=greasier hides ; Old dairy cows can be the thinnest and best
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Do you use cores? or are they square?
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If convenient, soak it up in hot water then cut with ease
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Saddle trees , who are the top of the line nowadays?
oltoot replied to paulamoose's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
For traditional wood & rawhide, I put Quality Mfg in Monticello, Utah at the top -
Trimmed after sewing with rawhide and fitted front and trimmed back with leather
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As a long time (I'm 75) user and maker I can assure that no one will like that pinked cantle binding for very long as the little points will soon curl up and poke in front and scrape in back. Learned the hard way. It looks like a good idea but soon backfires
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Scored rawhide is a large cause of broken tree bars IMHO so a + for bar risers and that business about closeness is a myth, as far as I'm concerned; much better to have balance and comfort brought by a well shaped seat, so what if it is 1/16 or even 1/8 higher up in the air, if the insides of the thighs are as close to the tree as the bar risers allow and everything else is in balance.
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I have also added bees wax. From candle makers supplies get white BW beads. Equal parts to the other ingredients. I have settled on much more water, about 2 1/2 cups.
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I've never tried it so I can't say for sure (I just use 2 coats) but the old timer who I worked with when I was just a boy always dyed his black (smooth surfaces, not matted or backgrounded) with a coat of deep purple first, letting it dry and buffing it before applying the black, just sayin.