How Do I Line A Bag Using A Folded Edge?

[DavidL]

How do I line the inside of a bag using a pattern. How many mm do I add to the piece I want lined? Does the lining attach to the bag regularly or does it hang loosely?

[Tesla Ranger]

I'm not sure how you could line it in a practical way after it's assembled. There may well be a method but I'm afraid I'm not aware of it. Generally I tend to install the lining before I assemble a bag. I cut it about an inch larger than the piece to be lined, glue it down, trim the lining and proceed with assembly.

[veedub3]

I add the lining to the bag before assembly. This way you can eliminate any visible raw edges. The lining is usually the same size as the bag, and I do not glue the lining to the leather.

Search YouTube for Dopp Kit, Toiletry bag, or box makeup bags. Although they are made of fabric, the process for making it with leather is the same. Also you can check out Craftsy.com, there is a free pdf that tells you how to make it. Search for "No Guts Boxie Pouch", again it is made of fabric but it works with leather as well.

Karina

[blue duck]

You can line it so that it will hang loose or like the others said to glue it. Either way though, it does need to be done as part of the assembly. I would suggest maybe a combination of both. Turn the lining edges and attach it along with the zipper. If it is glued to what will become the top, that should make it lay in the case nicely, without having to worry about glue soaking through (depends on lining & glue) on the sides and bottom where it will be seen. Make sense or just confusing?

[Hi Im Joe]

For fabric linings you glue just the edges to the leather. You measure the lining as if you were not doing bound edges that way when you turn the edge it will cover the fabric. Then you can catch the bound edge and the lining up in the stitching. I think you want to do 8 or 10 mm for a turnover allowance. This does not include the thickness of any leather you may be turning the edge over. Basically, the straight turnover allowance is twice w/e your stitching line distance from the edge is. So if you are stitching 4 mm in from the edge you allow 8 mm for the turnover. This guarantees your stitch line will be right in the middle of the turnover.

If you are turning the edge over something and not just onto itself you have to add to the turnover allowances the thickness of the various layers of leather. For example, if you have 2 layers of 1mm thick leather to turn an edge over then you have to add 2mm to the 8mm turnover allowance for a total of 10mm extra.

I hope that makes sense. If not I'll try to explain again.

[DavidL]

For fabric linings you glue just the edges to the leather. You measure the lining as if you were not doing bound edges that way when you turn the edge it will cover the fabric. Then you can catch the bound edge and the lining up in the stitching. I think you want to do 8 or 10 mm for a turnover allowance. This does not include the thickness of any leather you may be turning the edge over. Basically, the straight turnover allowance is twice w/e your stitching line distance from the edge is. So if you are stitching 4 mm in from the edge you allow 8 mm for the turnover. This guarantees your stitch line will be right in the middle of the turnover.

If you are turning the edge over something and not just onto itself you have to add to the turnover allowances the thickness of the various layers of leather. For example, if you have 2 layers of 1mm thick leather to turn an edge over then you have to add 2mm to the 8mm turnover allowance for a total of 10mm extra.

I hope that makes sense. If not I'll try to explain again.

makes sense. Is there a way to calculate how much you need to add to the pattern because of the thickness of the leather you are folding - folding a piece of paper you can get an exact measurement - folding a 1.2mm leather means that you will need to add some length, but I can't figure out how to calculate it.

For the inside french seam/ invisible seam it create extra material on the inside.

Liner- How can I fold over the edge on the excess the french seam makes and not create another excess from the folded

edge? Most bags that I own Inside they use a separate piece of material and fold over the french seam, from there they do another french seam on each side.

[Hi Im Joe]

I'm not sure how to answer your question. In the picture you posted you would not use a "french" bound edge. A french edge is one where you glue the lining on the grain side of the leather grain to grain. Then you stitch the lining to the hide. Then you roll the lining over the edge of the leather and stitch it down to catch the lining a second time.

Example:

https://www.google.com/search?q=french+edge+binding+leather&spell=1&tbm=isch&ei=oJOvU_n4H82ZyAS1koL4Cw#q=rolled+edge+leather&tbm=isch&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=RUlGtjc9AxU21M%253A%3BZgm86QHEC97R-M%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fsalukifeathers.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2013%252F10%252FDSC_7570.jpg%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fsalukifeathers.com%252Fpost%252Fgallery%252Ftooled-leather-dog-collars-gallery%252F%3B640%3B424

You calculate it exactly how I described. You have the stitching allowance (I accidentally called this the turnover allowance in my earlier post. This is usually 8 to 10 mm) and then you have the turnover allowance (the thickness of the leather you are turning the edge over). Add these together to determine how much length/width to add to your pattern.

For example: I have a wallet. I want to stitch it 4mm in from the edge. I know the thickness of the divider and card pocket adds up to 2.5mm. I just add 8mm (4x2) plus 2.5mm which equals 10.5mm to the overall length for each side of the wallet that I have a turned edge on. So since the top is open and will not have a bound edge that means I need 10.5mm to the width of my wallet pattern. However, both sides of the wallet will be bound therefore I need to add 21mm (10.5 x 2) to the length of my wallet pattern.

Hope that helps. This is really hard to describe in text.

[DavidL]

I'm not sure how to answer your question. In the picture you posted you would not use a "french" bound edge. A french edge is one where you glue the lining on the grain side of the leather grain to grain. Then you stitch the lining to the hide. Then you roll the lining over the edge of the leather and stitch it down to catch the lining a second time.

Example:

https://www.google.com/search?q=french+edge+binding+leather&spell=1&tbm=isch&ei=oJOvU_n4H82ZyAS1koL4Cw#q=rolled+edge+leather&tbm=isch&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=RUlGtjc9AxU21M%253A%3BZgm86QHEC97R-M%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fsalukifeathers.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2013%252F10%252FDSC_7570.jpg%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fsalukifeathers.com%252Fpost%252Fgallery%252Ftooled-leather-dog-collars-gallery%252F%3B640%3B424

You calculate it exactly how I described. You have the stitching allowance (I accidentally called this the turnover allowance in my earlier post. This is usually 8 to 10 mm) and then you have the turnover allowance (the thickness of the leather you are turning the edge over). Add these together to determine how much length/width to add to your pattern.

For example: I have a wallet. I want to stitch it 4mm in from the edge. I know the thickness of the divider and card pocket adds up to 2.5mm. I just add 8mm (4x2) plus 2.5mm which equals 10.5mm to the overall length for each side of the wallet that I have a turned edge on. So since the top is open and will not have a bound edge that means I need 10.5mm to the width of my wallet pattern. However, both sides of the wallet will be bound therefore I need to add 21mm (10.5 x 2) to the length of my wallet pattern.

Hope that helps. This is really hard to describe in text.

That clears things up. I didn't do a french seam where the inside is also folded over.

What I have is just two pieces of leather stitched grain side to grain side and then folded over

what I meant by my previous post is the thicker the leather that I'm going to be rolling over the more length I will need. For example I take tape and bend it over the edge to measure it out for the pattern, when I take that piece of leather cut from that measurement it will be slightly smaller then I need it since the thickness of the piece I'm rolling over doesnt bend as easily as tape. If only I had a skiving machine.

By rolling the edge I mean the way the front side of your wallet bends over the edge and stitches connect the back and front side. The picture below adding leather pieces in the middle.

Edited June 29, 2014 by DavidL

[DavidL]

.

[paprhangr]

check out Arthur Porter's youtube video's how to make a leather bucket bag

[Hi Im Joe]

That clears things up. I didn't do a french seam where the inside is also folded over.

What I have is just two pieces of leather stitched grain side to grain side and then folded over

what I meant by my previous post is the thicker the leather that I'm going to be rolling over the more length I will need. For example I take tape and bend it over the edge to measure it out for the pattern, when I take that piece of leather cut from that measurement it will be slightly smaller then I need it since the thickness of the piece I'm rolling over doesnt bend as easily as tape. If only I had a skiving machine.

By rolling the edge I mean the way the front side of your wallet bends over the edge and stitches connect the back and front side. The picture below adding leather pieces in the middle.

You don't need to roll a tape measure over to figure it out. Just hold a ruler along the thickness and see how many mms it is. Or use a vernier gauge (https://www.google.com/search?q=vernier+gauge&espv=2&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=gQuwU9_oEYOUqAbas4LADQ&ved=0CGUQsAQ&biw=1536&bih=860).

You don't need a skiving machine either. I've used a safety skiver for everything I've done so far and it works just fine. It just takes a lot longer than a machine. From a functional standpoint the result is just as good as a machine.

[silverwingit]

You can make an integral lining that is fully cemented to the primary leather or you can make a floating lining that is only attached at the zippers and/or seams.

Now, I'm not following the discussion so far as I am not fluent in "sew-speak." But I can easily understand Arthur Porter's videos. Here is the first in a series of six highly detailed instructional videos on how to make a fabric lined leather tote:

[Hi Im Joe]

Sew-speak?

[silverwingit]

Sew-speak: French seam, French bound edge, invisible seam, turnover/stitching allowance, etc. It's all Greek to me.

[Hi Im Joe]

Sew-speak: French seam, French bound edge, invisible seam, turnover/stitching allowance, etc. It's all Greek to me.

Ah! Its not so bad. Really it's fancy words for covering up a cut edge. That's it.

[leathervan]

If you do not glue the lining to the leather how do you get it attached? I am thinking in terms of a piece of leather with no lacing.

[Hi Im Joe]

If you do not glue the lining to the leather how do you get it attached? I am thinking in terms of a piece of leather with no lacing.

Usually you glue along the edge and then stitch it in.