First Saddle Done

[rdl123]

Well - Put about 11-12 miles on the new rig on Saturday - I'm pleased to report that it sat good on the horses I rode and sweated both of them up real even. Noticed it really seems to sit where it's put...Didn't have to cinch it up nearly as tight as my old saddle to keep it from rolling.

Anyhow, it also seamed to fit my rear end good too...Biggest challenge for me on this project was to order a tree that would the majority of canadian ranch horses...I don;t own my own horses - I ride for other people and it was important to me that this rig would fit your average horse. Obviously I'll need a lot more time on this thing to really determine how well it fits but s far so good.

Never had a chance to rope anything off it on sat but that will happen soon... Bottom line is so far so good and I am pretty happy with how it feels for me but more importantly how it sat on the horses...

R

[Billy H]

Very nice for your first saddle!

You should take great pride in what you have accomplished.

Regards Billy

[oltoot]

As the addage goes, since you asked. The list you made pretty well has it covered so I'll use it as my format and see if there is anything left over. #1 actually that has to come after #4 and then locate the bottom line of the Jockeys, my practice is to cover all rivits.

#2 Yes and I encourage you to stop doming rivits. It looks nice but domed heads will wear quicker and uglier

#3 Bruce's trick will help and even before that, using the biggest french edger you have, skive down and even on cantle back cantle filler and seat so that you will end up with a reduced thickness to sew through and if the 3 pieces (+2 for the 2 sides of the cantle binding that you have to sew through are no thicker than need be and are even in thickness throughout they will sew much easier and truer. Also, look at your awl blade. If it is a slim it probably deflects a bit, consider a thicker, stouter blade that won't deflect.

#4 Remember all the issues and lessons learned when laying out Plate in 1st place.

#5 if you have a tiny hiney OK but otherwise, why sacrifice a comfort feature?

next #5 Lesson learned.

#6 Best choice most of the time.

AND NOW

#7 Is the right side of the front cover left untooled for a reason?

#8 I'm assuming that front cover at the top of the gullet is not too short on purpose. Here is a good place to illustrate that the angle at which we hold an awl, spike or pencil matters as to whether or not the mark we make is the actual fold line or a reference line from which we scribe a fold line to put it where we need it to be.

#9 I'm NOT a fan of the Dale Harwood style of covering a horn and butting it up to the edge of the hole in the fork cover. If you remove the mulehide or burn it off, IMHO you should find a finished surface underneath that will hold up until you can get the wrap replaced or put back.

#10 That little unsecured by sewing point on the front of the horn cover is vulnerable to quick and ugly damage.

#11 Now on #NEXT you will have a lot to think about when you fit your skirts.

But the bottom line is still ya dun good

1. Rear jockeys - Not tight enough - Didn't cut them deep enough so very hard to get them really tight. Next time will add 1/2" extra.

2. Rigging plates - Too round on front edge and too far up fork - not quite as clean as ideal @ front end.

3. Cheyenne roll - Stitching on back looks like hell. Need to really practice on that,

4. Rear rigging plate set too high. Caused issues with seat ear and saddle strings

5. 13" Wide cantle - Probably do a 12.5" or maybe even 12" next time.

5. Plug rigging plates next time to eliminate bump @ rigging plate.

6. Consider using 2.5" stirrup leathers.

[rdl123]

Oltoot:

Thanks for commenting on this for me!

#2 & #6 - Rivet Doming - Yes,I am going to quit using the domer I have - Douglas Tools makes one that just eases the lip over a little but leaves the rivet largely flat. I may purchase one of those.

#3 - I like the idea of thinning it down - I figured I was sewing through about 1.25" - 1.5" of leather when I sewed that cover on...my awl is a Douglas tools awl from Sheridan Leather - Seems pretty rigid to me. I think the deviation was me not having the hang of it...I would have to say that sewing the Cheyenne roll was probably the hardest physical work on this project - Pushing an awl at 5 spi through that much leather isn't my idea of a party!

#5 - Point taken and I agree - I don't care for saddles that pinch at the cantle corners.

#7 - My theory was that the my rope (while tied on and bouncing around) would wear through tooled leather swell cover faster than just smooth leather - I would like to hear if this is actually a concern there.

#8 - That front lip at the top of the gullet is probably one of the things that bugs me the most. Next time I will scribe a line 3/8"+ from my initial scribed line.

#9 - I am not sure what to think here. My reasoning is that if a horn cap gets trashed it's an easier job to fix. However I can see your side of the debate too...so now I don't know what to think

#10 - I agree now that you point it out...Next time I want an off round cap I will order a guadalajara horn cap

#11 - Yep - Block in place, cut after is my new guideline until I create a pattern I really like.

Anyhow, thanks again Oltoot and everyone else who has commented - It sure helps to get experienced eyes on this.

Next saddle looks like it will be a Weatherly tree - However the guy wants a wood post style horn but wants the cap real small - Like 3" finished and then the neck to taper down. So It will have t have a metal horn - We're having a hard time sourcing a metal horn with that exact shape...

Hopefully do some roping on the new rig this weekend!

Regards,

Ron