Correct Stitching With Diamondshape Prickingiron

[Martha Koenig]

Hello,

as im doing a project with thicker leather (2-3 mm thickness) i have encountered a problem i never had doing very thin leatherprojects.

I have pricked my leather with my diamondshaped tool and tried to sew a testpiece of scrapleather, but the shape of the stitching is weirdly off.

Instead of the usual zig-zag the thread always went where it wanted, ultimately resulting in:

1. Starting at the top

2. going to the middle of the next hole

3. ending at the bottom of the next

4. coming out at the top again

looking like a "prolonged" zigzag. As i wont be able to start stitching before i find my error i would appreciate any help. I have already watched Nigel Armitages youtube videos and many others.

I am also suspecting my thread might have to do with my problem. As i mentioned i have only sewn thin leather before and used a very thin waxed thread - i havent chosen a "final" thread for my project yet ( as i will need to buy one first to match coulour), so im open to suggestions.

I have also considered using my round hole punch of 2mm diameter to make round stitching holes, can you tell me if that would be a sound or a stupid decision?

Many thanks in advance,

Martha

Edit: A small Illustration as to what kind of bag im making. The white lines are the path the stitching should follow. As you can see im doing nothing fancy, but im not sure what kind of stitching would be as decorative as it would be powerful. The bag is intended for my daily commute so it should be able to withstand some long-term abuse

Edited August 8, 2014 by Martha Koenig

[Redochre]

That sounds like the the thread is too small for the hole.

If you are using the correct size thread for the stitching punch then its possible the punch could be leaving the leather at an angle so its creating a larger than it is designed to make.

Could you possibly give us a few more details please? Such as thread type, needle size, which stitch punch you are using & what size that punch is.

Thank you,

Andy.

[TXAG]

I would not recommend making round holes for your stitching.

I have found that making the overhand knot (as shown in Nigel's "saddle stitch in detail" video), that helps the thread to lay correctly to give it the "zig zag" appearance. If you're gouging out a stitching groove, don't. It will force the stitches into the channel and they won't have the zigzag look...

Also, when you are tightening, pull each thread in the direction you want it to finally "sit"...if that makes sense...when I pull my stitches tight, I'm pulling up and away with one and down and away with the other.

Edited August 8, 2014 by TXAG

[Martha Koenig]

My thread is about 0.5 mm thick and i use normal sewing needles. As for my punches im using these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-4-6-Prong-Chisel-Diamond-Pro-line-Pre-Stitching-DIY-Leather-Craft-Tool-2x4mm-/390642659152?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&var=&hash=item5af41def50

If you scroll further down there are pictures with exact lengt and breadth of the prongs. Since the leather is quite thick they leave a diamond shaped hole which closes after a while, leaving only thin, slightly visible incisions where the sharp sides of the prongs entered. Aside from the punch i only have a round awl ( the other type is not available where i live, sadly), but i use a 1-pronged punch to do the job. I have not made a stitching groove as i intended to make the zigzag. Im currently using the saddle stitch and its the only type of stitch i have learned to use so far.

What type of thread and needle qould you recommend? If i take a thread any thicker than mine i will need new needles to go with it anyway.

Also, TXAG, your tip with pulling up one side and down the other makes sense, i will try it next time. The knot i also tried but the thread is so thin that it has no visible effect.

Unfortunately, there are no leathercraft stores anywhere close so i will have to mailorder everything. On the upside im open to suggestions ( within reasonable pricerange, of course ) since im not limited by choice that way .

Edited August 8, 2014 by Martha Koenig

[TXAG]

Thread / Needle size are pretty much dependent on what you're making...and also the stitches-per-inch you're using. For the cases and bags I make, I usually use 7SPI, 0.8mm braided polyester (AKA "tiger" thread) and John James #2 needles, as recommended by Nigel in his videos. It's been working great for me.

I have a few of the same irons you linked to as I picked them up in Japan while I was vacationing in Tokyo. They work pretty well...I completed my wallet kit with them and used a thinner (thinner than 0.8mm anyway) ramie thread I bought there also. I'll try to post pics of my stitching with those irons later.

I'm not sure what else could be the problem...I'd recommend getting some 0.8mm braided poly (either "Tiger" or there are other sources others have used on here if you don't want to get the more expensive Tiger thread...)...and some good #2 John James needles from here:

http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-tools/leather-sewing-harness-needles

(You want the "Size 2" ones...those are the correct size for 0.8mm tiger thread...)

I think the "Size 4" ones Nigel recommends for 0.6mm braided poly...in case you want to get that size instead...

Hope that helps...

Edited August 8, 2014 by TXAG

[rawr66]

I think the problem most likely lies in your technique. For some reason I haven't been able to wrap my head around Nigel or Ian's videos on stitching. I haven't even come close to starting with angled stitches and that usually ends up in pulling stitches out and adjusting my technique. I'll do this until I can reach the desired look I want. I do know that I can create the angles on the visible side of the leather and not the back by punching my holes from the top side of the leather and working from right to left.

[Martha Koenig]

I actually twined two thinner threads with beeswax and tried TXAG's technique. It worked like a charm. I guess he was spot on with the 0.8 mm thread.

But the prices for a spool of 0.8mm thread made my eyes bleed, i guess im going to buy thinner thread and twine it myself... I dont shy away from the extra work, it is, after all, my hobby to slowly make things.

Edited August 9, 2014 by Martha Koenig

[TXAG]

I am glad that worked for you.

Do a search on here for tiger thread and it should pull up threads on alternatives to it that are cheaper. You'd have to wax it yourself, but I understand that you're ok with that.

[DavidL]

1000 stitches and you will get great results

[DS STRAPS]

Sorry to hijack ur thread but I read a few post and a few other threads and was wondering, are you suppose to go all the way through with any style stitching chisel/pricking iron or are they just for starting the holes?

[billybopp]

The Dixon / Blanchard (and others) type pricking irons are designed mostly to mark the location and orientation of the holes for you to open up with an awl, however they can be used to go all the way through.

The type shown above are probably more properly known as strap punches, and are designed to put a hole all the way through, however with a lighter tap they can be used just to mark location and orientation for your awl to pierce.

Hope that helps more than confuses

Bill

[DS STRAPS]

The Dixon / Blanchard (and others) type pricking irons are designed mostly to mark the location and orientation of the holes for you to open up with an awl, however they can be used to go all the way through.

The type shown above are probably more properly known as strap punches, and are designed to put a hole all the way through, however with a lighter tap they can be used just to mark location and orientation for your awl to pierce.

Hope that helps more than confuses

Bill

The Dixon / Blanchard (and others) type pricking irons are designed mostly to mark the location and orientation of the holes for you to open up with an awl, however they can be used to go all the way through.

The type shown above are probably more properly known as strap punches, and are designed to put a hole all the way through, however with a lighter tap they can be used just to mark location and orientation for your awl to pierce.

Hope that helps more than confuses

Bill

Thanks Billy that helps just want to make sure I'm doing it properly....man I have a ton to learn!

The Dixon / Blanchard (and others) type pricking irons are designed mostly to mark the location and orientation of the holes for you to open up with an awl, however they can be used to go all the way through.

The type shown above are probably more properly known as strap punches, and are designed to put a hole all the way through, however with a lighter tap they can be used just to mark location and orientation for your awl to pierce.

Hope that helps more than confuses

Bill

Thanks Billy that helps just want to make sure I'm doing it properly....man I have a ton to learn!