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When I started I built western saddles, the person who schooled me used 277 top and 207 bottom. He explained to me that it had to do with the backstitch and getting two stitches in the same hole without cutting the thread. When I use 277 top and 207 bottom I increase needle size on my Artisan Toro to a #230.

For the last 4 years I have been stitching all my gun leather items with a 207 top and 207 bottom with a #200 needle. I have yet to have a stitch break and like the fact that the thinner thread makes the item the focal point and not the stitching.

While searching for thread last year I ran across a chart that explained the thread sizes and when and how much the thread becomes the focal point of what you are making and how much. The larger the thread the more attention that drawn to it.

When making tack or saddles I go up to the 277 to make the thread part of the saddle's look.

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