Question About Sewing Machine Ad

[gfrye]

Hello,

I am a newbie to leatherworking and sewing and am interested in purchasing a sewing machine, mainly for dog collars, belts and rifle slings. I've been watching the local paper for used machines to start out with and found one for a Singer Sergers, "industrial style". I read the pinned topic on machines but I didn't really understand much because I am not very experienced with machine sewing. Is it worth following up on this ad? There's no specific information about the machine so I was wondering what I should be asking for and what answers I need. I understand the necessity of a walking foot machine, if it isn't can they be modified usually?

Thank you in advance for any help.

[robertmeco]

I don't believe you want a serger. Google sewing machine sergers and you will see why

[Wizcrafts]

You should be searching for a true industrial, triple (compound) feed, walking foot machine. It should sit on top of an industrial table with a steel "k-legs" frame and have either a 1/2 HP clutch, or a decent, modern servo motor. Most machines in this "upholstery" class will sew up to 3/8 inches, with #138 bonded nylon thread, top and bottom. At 22 pounds breaking strength, #138 thread may take two rows of stitches to really secure a dog collar (depending on the strength of the animal).

[Darren Brosowski]

Ebay is full of crap. I do a lot of business on ebay but lose a lot of customers because they ask me questions about other listings or buy one of my machines because somebody else said that type of machine will sew leather.

I call or message every customer who buys a machine to ensure that it will do what they require and every professional dealer does the same.

Do not buy any machine until you talk to the seller.

If they are a private seller and are just guessing what the machine will do then ask an expert (this is a good place to ask)

Often "working" on ebay means they turn the handwheel and the needle goes up and down

There are plenty of shonky dealers and the dead giveaway is that they are 30% cheaper than the dealers on here. The difference is that the machine has not been out of the box.

Do your research. There is a pinned thread by Wiz about leather machines and it is a great place to start.

[Cascabel]

First off, Do NOT place any faith at all in any ad that says a machine is "industrial strength". There is no such thing !! It is either an industrial machine, or it is not. Just because a machine is made of cast iron and painted black does not make it industrial. Easiest way for a novice to tell is if the motor is about the size of a man's fist and mounted on the back of the machine, it is a domestic machine, and not an industrial type. Real industrial machines have a motor about the size of your head mounted underneath the table. The next thing to consider is if it is a walking foot machine or not. Another consideration is that many industrial machines for sale on ebay are actually high speed machines for use in clothing factories, and entirely unsuitable for leather sewing. Check on this forum before spending your hard-earned cash !!.

Edited August 16, 2014 by Cascabel

[Wizcrafts]

To the O.P.;

A "serger" is a machine that is built to sew a tight stitch over the edge of garments to prevent the cloth from unraveling. They are also known as overlock machines. The needles are typically very thin and cannot stand penetrating leather. Look inside a pair of jeans and you will see this overlock stitching on one side.

[gfrye]

Thank you everyone for taking the time to answer my question. I called a local industrial machine dealer and they have Highlead and Typical machines. They are walking foot machines with servo motors and are on a 20x40 table. They don't have the triple feed, is that critical? Does anyone have experience with these brands?

[Wizcrafts]

... They don't have the triple feed, is that critical?

Dual feed usually relies upon teeth on the presser foot to claw the material forward or backward for each stitch. The feed dog on the bottom assists the feeding. The needle and inside foot are horizontally static and only move vertically. Layers can separate if not stapled, taped, or glued. The teeth will mark smooth top grain leather. These machines are okay for pebbled grain, or purse, shoe, upholstery, vest, or motorcycle leathers.

Then there is the ancient Singer spring foot system that has a spring loaded outer foot that follows the material backward, with the feed dog raised and moving, then snaps forward when the feed dog drops. The outside foot slips and slides on very smooth top grain leather and this results in stitches varying in length.

Given any choice, try to buy a triple (compound) feed walking foot machine. Ask about Consew, Chandler, Juki, Seiko, Adler, or a clone of these machines.