Cowboy 4500

[SkullCanyon]

Thanks Wiz - I have the two piece set. I knew about the alternating crank adjustment. New to this machine though so I will have look at the Manuel on how to lower the presser bar.

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[Wizcrafts]

You'll have to open up the face plate and remove it to access the screw on the presser bar. When you loosen it, pull straight down until the foot reaches the throat plate. Line it up as accurately as possible, then tighten down the set screw. Oil the tiny holes in the cranks inside the head, then reinstall the faceplate. Rotate the handwheel towards you until the needle just reaches the plane of the feed dog. The inside foot should also reach the plate, just after the point of the needle. As you rotate farther, the needle and inside foot should move with the feed dog, and the back foot should lift up. When the feed dog drops, the needle pulls up, the back foot should drop and then the inner foot should lift.

If the above doesn't happen, stop when the needle reaches the throat plate and raised feed dog. Loosen the large hex bolt behind the head, on the big crank arm. Manually move the inside foot until it just contacts the feed dog or throat plate. Lock down the bolt on the arm. That should do it.

[SkullCanyon]

You'll have to open up the face plate and remove it to access the screw on the presser bar. When you loosen it, pull straight down until the foot reaches the throat plate. Line it up as accurately as possible, then tighten down the set screw. Oil the tiny holes in the cranks inside the head, then reinstall the faceplate. Rotate the handwheel towards you until the needle just reaches the plane of the feed dog. The inside foot should also reach the plate, just after the point of the needle. As you rotate farther, the needle and inside foot should move with the feed dog, and the back foot should lift up. When the feed dog drops, the needle pulls up, the back foot should drop and then the inner foot should lift.

If the above doesn't happen, stop when the needle reaches the throat plate and raised feed dog. Loosen the large hex bolt behind the head, on the big crank arm. Manually move the inside foot until it just contacts the feed dog or throat plate. Lock down the bolt on the arm. That should do it.

Thanks Wiz - I got it on and adjusted, works great. Now I won't have to bother Bob on Monday.

Those two set screws on the presser bar were a bear to loosen, I thought for sure I was gonna snap the slot off.

I replaced them just snugly.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks Wiz - I got it on and adjusted, works great. Now I won't have to bother Bob on Monday.

Those two set screws on the presser bar were a bear to loosen, I thought for sure I was gonna snap the slot off.

I replaced them just snugly.

When you change back to the harness feet, align the outer feet straight so they're straight ahead and not touching the inside foot, which should also face straight ahead.

The regular feet were adjusted so the inside foot arrives at the feed dog just after the needle. If you sew really thick leather, you may find that reverse doesn't match forward stitches. If so, you can readjust the moment of contact between the needle and inner foot to regain equal stitches. However, if the reverse stitches are longer than forward, it is easier to feather the position of the stitch length lever to match the holes. Less upward position gives shorter reverse stitches.

The tightness of the top and bottom threads also affects your stitch length.

Finally, you may have the exact stitch length set into 8 ounces of leather. But, when sewing 1/2 inch the stitches will be shorter. This is due to the pendulum effect of the needle bar. The pendulum swings farther as you move away from the pivot point at the top. Always be prepared to run a test strip when changing thickness, or density, or material, or thread size, or thread colors. Adjust the stitch length and tensions as necessary. Don't use more thread tension than is required to lay down consistent, nice stitches.

Edited August 30, 2014 by Wizcrafts

[SkullCanyon]

When you change back to the harness feet, align the outer feet straight so they're straight ahead and not touching the inside foot, which should also face straight ahead.

The regular feet were adjusted so the inside foot arrives at the feed dog just after the needle. If you sew really thick leather, you may find that reverse doesn't match forward stitches. If so, you can readjust the moment of contact between the needle and inner foot to regain equal stitches. However, if the reverse stitches are longer than forward, it is easier to feather the position of the stitch length lever to match the holes. Less upward position gives shorter reverse stitches.

The tightness of the top and bottom threads also affects your stitch length.

Finally, you may have the exact stitch length set into 8 ounces of leather. But, when sewing 1/2 inch the stitches will be shorter. This is due to the pendulum effect of the needle bar. The pendulum swings farther as you move away from the pivot point at the top. Always be prepared to run a test strip when changing thickness, or density, or material, or thread size, or thread colors. Adjust the stitch length and tensions as necessary. Don't use more thread tension than is required to lay down consistent, nice stitches.

Good information to know. Thanks again