Edge Heat Burnishing?

[silverwingit]

From what I can tell, the European makers use Italian Fenice leather edge paint in conjunction with the Fileteuse heated iron to finish their chrometan edges. The Fenice paint can also be used without an iron and is now available from Tandy Leather as this video shows.

I'm currently looking for a more affordable adjustable soldering or woodburning iron with different tips in place of the Fileteuse. Maybe something as inexpensive as this.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41115&p=31041

Or even one of these with various available handpieces.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=31042&cat=1,41115,45497&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=41116&cat=1,41115,45497&ap=1

If someone is further along with this than me, I too would appreciate knowing about it.

Thanks,

Michelle

Edited September 20, 2014 by silverwingit

[thefanninator]

I've got a soldering iron that looks exactly like the Lee Valley wood burning pen with all the different tips. I bought it at Lowes for about $20. It gets too hot.

Looks like Andrew may have the temp closer to correct 160 - 180...

[DavidL]

I would go with a hakko soldering iron. Somewhere around 70 dollars for a heat adjustable iron that can be set to whatever degree, important for soldering because too hot or too cold and it won't work correctly. 90 dollars for the upgraded hakko comes with a little station that you can set to the exact degree.

For 30 bucks it will be hard to find an iron that is reliable as the hakko.

[billybopp]

Be aware that temperature controlled soldering irons have a thermistor/thermocouple in the tip to sense temperature and send it back to the power unit. Hence, you are limited to the tips made for that iron, which are pretty small. A proper fileteuse edger has a pretty broad surface.

Not to say that it will not work, but it's not exactly the same thing.

Bill

[Andrew Chee]

I'd be careful about a soldering iron. Their temps are probably too hot unless you can find one with adjustable temp. Temps hot enough to solder are probably too hot for leatherwork.

Andrew

[thefanninator]

Here's a simple card wallet with Fenice edge paint from Tandy on the edges.

Several coats and some fine sanding and paraffin wax. I use a scratch awl and drop the paint on the edge, tilt it and let it run down the edge to the other end.

3rd one is a little too close and out of focus.

Edited September 20, 2014 by thefanninator

[greekgod]

Here's a simple card wallet with Fenice edge paint from Tandy on the edges.

Several coats and some fine sanding and paraffin wax. I use a scratch awl and drop the paint on the edge, tilt it and let it run down the edge to the other end.

3rd one is a little too close and out of focus.

Thats really really good mate.. thanks so much for putting up the pictures.. If I may ask could you give a point to point run down how to get this finish PLEASEEEEEEEE?? I am not a very intelligent guy so I get it only if its dumb proof

[thefanninator]

Make sure your edges are lined up as near perfect as you can or trim the edges after you glue and stitch.

Sand the edges with 220 grit, 300, then 400.

Apply a coat of paint. I use a scratch awl and let the paint drip onto the edge, tilt it and let it run down the edge to the other end, while dripping more paint on. Makes a very smooth coat. Be careful to not add too much paint or let it run down the sides. Let dry about an hour.

Apply 2nd coat and let dry.

If it's getting thick give it a light sanding with 300 grit.

Apply 3rd coat. Let dry.

Apply as many coats as you need to get rid of the line down the middle where the two leathers meet. Let dry.

I haven't tried yet but 1000 grit sandpaper may look great and help get rid of any dried bubbles etc...

Last I take a piece of canvas and rub paraffin wax all over one side and burnish the edge with it.

Edited September 21, 2014 by thefanninator

[greekgod]

.

Edited September 21, 2014 by greekgod

[greekgod]

Make sure your edges are lined up as near perfect as you can or trim the edges after you glue and stitch.

Sand the edges with 220 grit, 300, then 400.

Apply a coat of paint. I use a scratch awl and let the paint drip onto the edge, tilt it and let it run down the edge to the other end, while dripping more paint on. Makes a very smooth coat. Be careful to not add too much paint or let it run down the sides. Let dry about an hour.

Apply 2nd coat and let dry.

If it's getting thick give it a light sanding with 300 grit.

Apply 3rd coat. Let dry.

Apply as many coats as you need to get rid of the line down the middle where the two leathers meet. Let dry.

I haven't tried yet but 1000 grit sandpaper may look great and help get rid of any dried bubbles etc...

Last I take a piece of canvas and rub paraffin wax all over one side and burnish the edge with it.

Cool thanks so much for that!!!

I didn't quiet understand the last part. So after the 3 times coats has dried ...you take a piece of canvas and run the wax all over the dried coat? And then burnish the that waxed edge with the canvas?

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