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twigletzone

Hi From East Anglia, Uk

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So I started out making costumes and random household stuff, mostly sewn, but I've always loved leather (lifetime of horse riding) and embossed leather as a craft fascinates me. Then I got into live roleplaying and found out how many really useful bits of leather stuff there are out there, and how absurdly pricey they are to buy. And then I saw this interesting ebook called The Crystal Anvil. And now I'm curious :)

Currently trying to figure out if I have enough bits and bobs to start trying out leathercraft as is without buying a ton of tools. I might need a better craft knife and an awl that isn't a sewing one, and I'm not sure I can get away without an edge beveler, but I've got a leather needle somewhere from a mixed set that ha all sorts of things in it - sail needles and so on. Just need some waxed thread and the right kind of leather for the belt idea I have...

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Good starter tools need not be terribly expensive for simple projects! And there's a good chance that you have many of them already.

A good utility knife with sharp blades, Stanley brand for example, are useful for any number of things around the house in addition to leather. Home improvement stores, and department stores are possible sources.

A self healing cutting mat, or poly cutting board are helpful, not too expensive and also available at many places.

A metal straight edge with a cork or rubber non-slip back also has many uses. Home improvement stores or department stores, perhaps.

A rotary hole punch is a little more specialized, but very useful and not terribly expensive. Multiple tip drive hole punches are another option.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/punches/3240-00.aspx

A proper diamond sewing awl is highly recommended and not too expensive at ~ $20 US. The Japanese ones arrive in a usable state of sharpness, not all do.

http://www.goodsjapan.jp/category/awls/catId=4252437

http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-tools/blanchard-leather-sewing-awl

Tiger thread, which is a super thread to use, is available in short lengths from a number of places.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/120961806/tiger-thread-for-leatherwork-20m?ref=shop_home_active_2

Needles (if you don't find what you need in your collection):

https://www.etsy.com/listing/174952548/john-james-002-saddlers-harness-needles?ref=shop_home_active_7&ulsfg=true

You can probably get by without a beveler, but they are useful. It's also harder to find a good one that's inexpensive. New ones arrive dull as dishwater and take some work to make usable. Vintage ones tend to be better, and expensive. You'll have to be creative without one. Some use sandpaper to bevel, but it's a little time consuming.

An overstitch wheel is very useful, but you might get by without if you have a very good eye for spacing, or use a ruler and careful marking.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/site-search-results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=overstitch

A stitching groover or creaser is helpful, but you can probably figure out some other creative way to do the same job as a creaser. I've actually used a butter knife and straight edge to crease when the other half borrowed my proper tool and I couldn't find the damn thing. (take my tools, I take your silverware! Mwahahaha)

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/stitching-lacing-tools/88081-00.aspx

An edge burnisher of some sort is helpful for making a nice looking edge, and not expensive.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8121-00.aspx

Rivets and a rivet setter sometimes come as a kit.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/hardware/rivets/3635-00.aspx

Chicago screws are an alternative to rivets for a belt.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/hardware/1290-051.aspx

Some leather, some dyes, some finish .. Maybe some saddle soap and beeswax for edge burnishing ...

I don't think I've missed anything important.

It looks like a lot, but it isn't, really. You may already have many of the tools. Others are useful for things other than leather work.

Many of the items above can be found for less money on ebay and elsewhere if you're willing to do the searching. Chinese tools seem to be a mixed bag .. Some OK, some not, and no way to really tell which is which until you get them. Tandy tools are mostly OK for a starter. They have a store in the UK, so might avoid some shipping expenses for you. There are also a number of other UK vendors .. there is a thread on here listing UK and European vendors, but I can't find it at the moment.

Hope that helps!

Bill

Edited by billybopp

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Thankyou very much for all the links!

Self-healing mat and metal straight edge I have. My only craft knife is a better quality version of the snap-off blades type, I've been meaning to invest in a Stanley knife for a while. The thing that's tweaking me about rivets and hole punches is that I have a superb high-quality eyelet press (a ClipsShop CSTEP-2), but it doesn't have dies for hole punching or setting rivets rather than eyelets. Seems a waste!

The belt project I have in mind would be stitched rather than riveted, it's replacing a belt made to go with a rather lovely handmade buckle, which was originally commissioned from a master saddler of whom I have fond childhood memories. Sadly I was optimistic about the size of my waist and the damn thing's never fitted me :P

Speaking of dyes and finishes, is there anywhere I can get a good comparison look at different leather finishes, eg. the different colours of FIebings' stuff? I know which finish I want but I don't know what it's called!

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Welcome to this fantastic site....wishing you every success with this brilliant craft and Art. I am also from England, Co. Durham. If you need any help please dont hesitate to mail me here.

kind regards.

Mark.

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http://www.fiebing.com/tips/color-charts-dyes-stains-antiques-2/

Fiebings has a color chart for their colors to at least get you pointed in the right direction. Note that those colors are only a rough guide, however. If you use most dyes undiluted, your result will almost certainly be darker than the chart. I dilute these dyes about 50/50 with dye reducer or denatured alcohol. Also, the color of the leather to begin with will have an effect, as will neatsfoot oil and other materials. It's always best to try the color on a piece of scrap that is similar to your work piece.

Hope that helps

Bill

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Right. Suck it and see then XD Thank you both!

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