Overlapping Leather And Sewing Around Corners

[Yanni]

I am trying to sew a pocket by making an external stitch like in the photo.

How can i do that while the bottom leather stays 3mm from the guide edge especially around corners?

I can sew the pocket if both layers top and bottom edges are against the guide but overlapping each other i cannot find a way to do it without glueing

the two layers...any help?

Thanks

Edited October 4, 2014 by Yanni

[DavidL]

I do this a lot of this when making wallets, except they sit flush with each other. It should be exactly the same as the way I'm explaining, although there are multiple ways of doing it.

If the gusset is to be moulded then you can mould the gusset to the wood mould, making sure that a few mm is sitting on the front side of the mould to be stitched to the front. From there glue the front piece onto gusset (excess that curves onto the front panel) and use a pricking iron or overstitch on the piece after you mark it with a scratch compass, all steps are to be done while the piece is still in the mould. You may want to add rubber or something similar to the mould to your iron might messing up the wood.

If it isn't moulded then its a bit easier. You can mark the stitches on both pieces of leather making sure that they align properly. Either pre stab the holes or let your awl do the work as you stitch.

[Yanni]

I'm looking to do this with a sewing machine , not by hand David as our bags are sold in the hundreds here in the UK.

Our profit margin does not allow for hand work on these so I was looking for a quick way...no glueing or using pricking irons.

[DavidL]

if its not moulded just draw a line on the back (where they join) of the front piece and guide the leather with your hand..

[silverwingit]

My bet is that your stitching guide is probably causing more problems than it is solving.

Also, I almost ~always~ have problems trying to stitch two layers without gluing, taping or clamping them first.

Michelle