cleanview Report post Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) I was asked if I could make a holster with a thumb break and I said I guess, if you dont mind being my first. When I was given the gun it was in the holster pictured here. It is extremely awkward to engage and Most pics I see have it across the slide. Is this one just an odd ball? I am going to order the stiffener and snap cover and build it into an avenger for a ruger SR9. Any pics or tips would sure be appreciated. Edited November 7, 2014 by cleanview Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted November 7, 2014 IMO, the strap should not interfere with the combat grip. That one does. How are you going to grip and draw the gun with the strap there? Flip side is that the slide is kind of tapered forward which might make things a bit more tricky. But I would still work the strap over the slide. I vote odd ball on that holster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted November 7, 2014 THe idea of a properly placed thumb gripis so that as youget your hand into a gripping position around the grip the thumb is intuitively placed and breaks the snap all in one motion. That is not likely to happen with that one. I think the maker of that holster was going for maximum retention and not ease of draw. I agree with chiefjason, odd ball. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanview Report post Posted November 7, 2014 I agree....there are a lot of things that are new ground to me, yet as I learn, I can look at a holster and think......that wont work right. I would love some detailed pics of thumb breaks on hoslters. I ASSUME that it is a regular snap and then the stiffener for breaking the snap open? And would probably be putting that hardware on at the very last step????? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dakotawolf Report post Posted November 7, 2014 This is my latest attempt at a thumb break hoster. It actually worked quite well, but could have been prettier. It's for a Glock 19. I figured the position for the thumb break in the side against the body (having a couple thumb break holsters to examine at the same time helped). I left the other half of the thumb break long so I could figure the length after wet forming and with the gun actually in the holster. On this one I choose to sandwich the metal stiffener between two layers of leather, and recess the snap. My thumb break hardware (stainless stiffener and black plastic snap cover/thing to protect the fun from rubbing on the snap) came from High Desert Leather (Google can help u fund the website). The last photo is my previous thumb break (Glock 26). The stiffener was not sandwiched. I much prefer the sandwiched look, and think it performs a little better, in that there is less bulk under the retention strap due to the recessed snap. This was a quick explication. I kind of glossed over a bit, but the photos should tell most of the story. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George B Report post Posted November 7, 2014 The holster pictured looks like it only surrounds the pistol below the front of the trigger guard, probably for speed of draw. If the safety were to go directly across the top of the slide the pistol would creep backwards and more than likely fall backwards out of the holster. The only way to retain the pistol with the design I see is the strap right where it is. If the holster enclosed the pistol like a typical Avenger it would not be able to move backwards or forwards and the thumb break strap across the top of the slide should hold it without issue. The only thing with placing the strap where it is in the pic, is that you have leather between your hand and the weapon. This may cause a problem drawing the weapon. I normally place my snap as high as possible on the slide when I make a thumb break safety. All the above is just my opinion and others may have a better understanding of thumb break safeties. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dakotawolf Report post Posted November 7, 2014 I forgot to add this photo to my previous post. This is the last thumbtack holster I made. The metal stiffener is not sandwiched. I've heard of people just using two layers of leather rather than s metal stiffener for the thumb break. I haven't tried it yet, so I don't know if it works, or retains rigidity over time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted November 7, 2014 I agree....there are a lot of things that are new ground to me, yet as I learn, I can look at a holster and think......that wont work right. I would love some detailed pics of thumb breaks on hoslters. I ASSUME that it is a regular snap and then the stiffener for breaking the snap open? And would probably be putting that hardware on at the very last step????? I use line 24 snaps. I started to use pull the dot, but the reality is you want it to break somewhat easier than a PTD snap. I use the metal stiffeners now, but have made my own out of kydex too. I also use a plastic snap in protector between the inside snap and the pistol. You don't want metal on metal contact. Most places that carry holster materials should have all those. I got mine from Blue gun store and/or Springfield leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanview Report post Posted November 7, 2014 seems like most of the thumb break holsters don't have the typical reinforcement piece? Is there a reason why? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dakotawolf Report post Posted November 8, 2014 Doesn't really need it. The mouth reinforcement "for holstering" is kind of superfluous. It's a nice thing to decorate, but his wet molding and a little heat (like 135 F) will harden the collegen in the leather and make mouth reinforcement not completely necessary. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
malabar Report post Posted November 10, 2014 Dakotawolf, Everyone's entitled to their own opinion, of course, but some of the best makers in the industry would disagree with you on this. Most makers will reinforce the mouth on any IWB, because the stresses of being inside the waistband tend to crush the holster mouth closed (I've seen . Similarly, in an OWB, the forces that pull your holster tight into your body can cause the holster mouth to squeeze tight. That's not true of all holsters in all situations, but it's a pretty good rule of thumb. Keep in mind the techniques that are being taught today: A rigid, reinforced mouth enables easy, one-handed reholstering. And having a metal band in the mouth can provide a degree of adjustable retention. Generally, the reason that holsters with thumbbreaks don't have reinforced mouths is that the two features are the result of different design philosophies that require different degrees of retention. They can be combined -- I've attached a photo below of a holster I made that has both a steel band and a thumbstrap -- but it's not something you see often. Doesn't really need it. The mouth reinforcement "for holstering" is kind of superfluous. It's a nice thing to decorate, but his wet molding and a little heat (like 135 F) will harden the collegen in the leather and make mouth reinforcement not completely necessary. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Splash Report post Posted November 10, 2014 Chief is correct, thumb break should not interfere with the natural position of the grip. there is a reason why is called a thumb break, it is the thumb who undo the smap. The snap and tab should be located where the thumb will naturally fall into place when you grab the grip of the pistol. I would use a re-enforcing piece if it is an IWB holster or if it is requested. the only other re-enforcement piece is on the thumg tab itseld to make it rigid enough for a clean release Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
