taobao Report post Posted November 18, 2014 Hi folks, the time has come to reach out directly to the collective knowledge that is assembled here - just couldn't find a solution via search and Christmas is nearing meaning order have to be fulfilled! I am currently facing two types of material issues that I'd like to share with you: The edge of a finished edge splitting open [1] and the surface of leather belt straps wrinkling/cracking after dyeing [2]. [1] Edge splitting Background: So I got this very fine veg tan hides for smaller leather goods - they come in .8mm, 1-1.3mm as well as 1.3-1.5mm thicknesses and dye really beautifully. The leather breaks in just like it should and it holds the dye nicely. Issue: All is great but the edges. My standard routine for edges would be (all Fiebing's) - saddle soap - gum trag - edge dye with the help of a wooden burnisher on a post drill. On my other leathers this procedure works fine and gives a nicely finished edge than holds. With the mentioned veg tan it gets to what you can see below. When using compound bees wax I got the edge to become more solid to hard, which is "closed" but not as nice.. Any recommendations are highly appreciated! [2] Belt wrinkles/cracks Background: Got a veg tan hide some time ago which is around 3mm in thickness. Cut it in straps, made the brown belt you can see below and stored the rest until now. I dye using Fiebings Oil Dye and finish with Neatsfoot Oil as well as Carnauba Creme. Issue: The undyed hide wrinkles when bending or rolling "against" the top-side. The dyed belt wrinkles and kind of pushes the skin and stays as seen below. When bending backwards e.g. stretching the top-side it can crack. I tried to contact the leather retailer I got the hide from to ask if they had any issues with the lot I got my hide out of - only thing I received was an unfriendly email back asking what I wanted of them after a period x with no new orders. Any ideas on how to make the leather softer or treat the surface? Also, ideas for probable causes? Looking forward to your valued opinions, taobao Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted November 19, 2014 (edited) 1) As I have said in other posts, I am on a personal campaign against Gum Tragacanthm for the very reason you cite. Avoid it if you don't want your edges to crack and fray with use or exposure to the elements. Instead use Bob Parks' (hidepounder) method in the sticky section of this forum. 2) It looks as though you didn't fully restore the natural oils removed in the dyeing process. You should gauge how many light coast of neatsfoot are required to do that by testing on a scrap piece of leather. Apply just enough to restore pliability without saturating the sample. Apply neetsfoot serially with a piece of saddler's sheep's wool that you've trimmed to 1/3" - 1/2" thick. Apply a small puddle on one half of the patch of sheep's wool, fold it over and rub the oil to distribute it equally and then rapidly spread it out, avoiding prolonged contact in any one area. Rub the oil in until it is evenly distributed and then wipe it away with a soft dry cloth. Bend the leather ~slightly~, slowly and carefully and examine for any cracking or wrinkling. If you detect cracking or wrinkling, repeat the process. Understand that you cannot hard-bend any dry leather with the grain side out without it cracking. Nor can you hard-bend leather with the flesh side out without it puckering or wrinkling. Leather is just not that rubbery. When, for example, you wrap your belt blank around the buckle you should wet at least the grain side if not the flesh side as well beforehand. What I am seeing looks like you under-treated your belts with oil and then rolled them tightly against the grain side, forcing the surface of the grain side to wrinkle. That is inviting just what happened. Good luck and let us know how your next one turns out. Michelle Edited November 19, 2014 by silverwingit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted November 21, 2014 Belly leather is prone to that. I also pre treat with neatsfoot oil and don't use belly leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites