Randall Union Lockstitch Questions?

[Fivetenranch]

I have a old Randall and I am needing some advise on this beast. It keeps cutting my top thread as it rolls over the bobbin ? About to pull my hair out!

[harrington]

Call Connie Naegle at Campbell-Randall in Texas. He rebuilt an old Randall for me and was a wealth of information. My only regret is that I didn't get to spend a week with him. Still learning about my machine. The company number is 800-327-9420.

[pcox]

cycle the machine thru till the needle has pulled the thru down thru the needle just a little. Now remove the front shuttle race cover. As you turn the hand wheel slowly watch to see if the point of the shuttle goes between the two threads or if it catches/or splits one side or the other. If it hits one side you will need to center the shuttle.

If it goes between the threads ok watch as the shuttle comes forward and see where it is breaking the thread.

[Wizcrafts]

As pcox mentioned, the shuttle hook can be moved laterally, as well as forward or backward. Plus, the needlebar itself has some lateral adjustment via the long bolts that go through the moving arms on the fore and aft of the body.

Some causes of missed stitches, or cut thread, are, in no particular order...

• A burr on the bobbin cover;
• A sharp leading edge on the bobbin tensioning spring that is mounted on the inside bobbin case cover;
• Too much tension and not enough clearance for the top thread due to that spring being set too close with no wiggle room;
• Twisted thread on the barb of the needle (various causes and fixes);
• A bent needle (believe me, it happens);
• Top thread being held too long on the needle down cycle. This can cause the thread to stay on the needle and get caught in the bobbin drive gears. It can be caused by a wrong too long setting for the slack takeup lever that holds the thread back as the looper feeds the needle.
• Bad thread can happen.

I always operated my ULS machines with the bare minimum of clearances necessary to sew smoothly and consistently. A properly tuned ULS can sew flat out at 15 stitches per second, until the bobbin runs out. Wear earplugs before doing this!

[Fivetenranch]

Thanks for the replies. Everything seams to be in good shape ( clearances , timing ) as I use the wheel only to hand sew it all works perfectly but when I put on the gas no matter how slow I go it cuts it as its rolling thru the shuttle/bobbin assembly. I wonder if replaced the shuttle and related parts if that would fix it? Or should I just have it rebuilt. It came out of the old bona Allen saddle factory after it burned down .

[pcox]

A new shuttle is $300+. Where are the ends of the thread when it breaks? In the shuttle area or up high in or above the thread tube? What thread and wax are you using. I now use nylon thread but when I first got it I was trying to use linen dry and it would break every time, then I got the wax pot working with liquid waxand the thread stopped breaking. the thread breaks/ocks need to be set for the type of thread you are using.

[Wizcrafts]

You can send the machine to Campbell Randall, in Yoakum Texas, to be rebuilt.

I spent about $1000 in parts rebuilding my last Union Lockstitch Machine, just a couple years ago. New parts and tight clearances make a huge difference in the performance of these beasts. I was able to do the work myself, as I've owned two of them. If you have to send it to the factory, expect to pay out about $1500 to $2000 for a rebuild, plus about $300 shipping each way.

Your first purchase, if you don't already own one, is the user's manual. It is a combination setup and adjustment manual and a parts book. Every single part is listed, including optional presser feet and throat plates. Also, unless you got at least three of the sizes of four sided internal adjuster T-wrenches, buy a set anew. The smallest is about 3/16 inch and the largest is 1/2 inch.

Old bobbins tend to have suffered falls or other calamities. Buy some brand new bobbins. Old bent steel bobbins often have sharp burrs from people trying to straighten them out with pliers. A new bobbin is just $22 and should last a lifetime, unless you drop it on a hard floor. I had 10 for my last ULS machine.

If your needles or awls are bent or rusted, discard them and buy new one. They sell for about $34 for a pack of ten. Use one number larger awl than needle. A #3 needle and #4 awl is the practical minimum for black #277 bonded thread. You can get by with a half size smaller if you use light colored thread. Buy every needle size you expect to need. I used to have every needle from 0 through 6 and every awl from #1 through #7. The 0 needles are as rare as Hen's teeth now. Consider yourself lucky if you can find some #1 needles. They work with 3 cord linen or #92 bonded thread. Sometimes you can grab #138 thread in a #1 or 1.5 needle. I used such a setup to sew rifle slings on my ULS, with #138 Weaver bonded nylon thread. Small hole = tight knots.

Lax Wax is great, but requires the wax pot to be removed and cleaned out every so often. I like Ceroxylon just as well. These are used with Barbour's Irish Linen thread (left twist, glazed only). Campbell Randall stocks this thread in various sizes. Do not try to save money on the European linen thread. Buy Barbour's. Who cares if it costs almost $50 a pound? The results are worth it. Your machine can use 3 cord through 10 cord linen thread, run through liquid wax. Left twist only!