Snaps For Thin Material

[arbalest]

I have some vinyl that looks like thin leather that I would like to use snaps with. I have tried line 20 and 24 as well as glove snaps and I'm having all kinds of problems. I know the line 24 is meant for thicker leather but I want the look of the larger cap.

I am a beginer so I don't know if the problems are from my technique or if these snaps do not work with thin material. The main problem is that it take a lot of fussing and hammering to set the snaps and mostly the results are bad. The posts are not deforming in a uniform way, and the snaps are not set tight or when I do get one tight it is difficult (and sometimes impossible) to snap them together. I have tried trimming the post length and I get mixed results.

Should I use a different type of snap like segma/belt snaps?

[25b]

If you get a snap setter like the press-n-snap, you'll be able to set snaps consistently and they'll work.

For very thin leather, I'd recommend cutting out a washer of thicker leather and use it to reinforce the snap.

Edited January 17, 2015 by 25b

[ENC]

Try a search for gripper or canvas snaps. They have staple like points instead of a center post and are made to use on fabric. I.E. thinner material than most leather. They are available at most fabric stores or at upholstery supply stores.

Ray

[Xenophon]

How thin is thin?

When you do trim them don't use pliers or you'll deform the post much like this ---> ()

Try to use a file/jewlers file to file them down till they're just right.

Cheers,

Fred

Edited January 18, 2015 by Xenophon

[arbalest]

How thin is thin?

When you do trim them don't use pliers or you'll deform the post much like this ---> ()

I am guessing 2-3mm thin. Maybe bigger than 1/16" but less than 1/8".

Right about deforming the post -- I discovered that the hard way! But as far as trimming goes I would do that for a few but I am making slip covers for some furniture (cat proofing) and this will involve more than 100 snaps (more than 200 posts to trim).

By the way, a previous version of this project used velco but since then I've gotten the snap setter set for other planned projects. I might try a hand setter (like pliers) for those plastic snaps used for fabric but I still want to understand the problem I am having now - for future projects and for others who might read this thread later.

Edited January 18, 2015 by arbalest

[Tree Reaper]

This is how it can be accomplished .

Make a jig, use a drill press.

The material here is 1/64 thick.

The snap is a line 20.

The post on the snap was 15/64 and was brought down to 7/64 using a drill press and a jig.

[arbalest]

This is how it can be accomplished .

Make a jig, use a drill press.

From the photos I can't tell what the jig is or how the drill press is used. Are you using a bit in the press or a Dremel type of cut-off wheel?

It looks like the jig is a depth guide screwed down over the post where what sticks up over the thickness of the peice of metal is being cut off. Is that it?

[Tree Reaper]

Yes, I use a drill press with a 7/64 bit and drill into the post down to the required height.

Once you get one the proper length then lock down the depth adjustment on the drill press and make all the rest the same length.

The metal piece pinches the snap and keeps it from spinning.

One side of the block is for 20 and the other side is for 24's using the same piece of scrap aluminum with two different size post holes drilled through it.

The only thing you don't see is a shallow hole that is counter bored into the wood for the snap to sit in.

[Xenophon]

I am guessing 2-3mm thin. Maybe bigger than 1/16" but less than 1/8".

Right about deforming the post -- I discovered that the hard way! But as far as trimming goes I would do that for a few but I am making slip covers for some furniture (cat proofing) and this will involve more than 100 snaps (more than 200 posts to trim).

By the way, a previous version of this project used velco but since then I've gotten the snap setter set for other planned projects. I might try a hand setter (like pliers) for those plastic snaps used for fabric but I still want to understand the problem I am having now - for future projects and for others who might read this thread later.

200 Posts! God that will kill anyone doing it. I don't suppose plastic snaps will last as long as metal ones. I do like the Jig idea mentioned by Tree Reaper.

Yes, I use a drill press with a 7/64 bit and drill into the post down to the required height.

Once you get one the proper length then lock down the depth adjustment on the drill press and make all the rest the same length.

The metal piece pinches the snap and keeps it from spinning.

One side of the block is for 20 and the other side is for 24's using the same piece of scrap aluminum with two different size post holes drilled through it.

The only thing you don't see is a shallow hole that is counter bored into the wood for the snap to sit in.

I'm curious as well, is it possible that you could just use a blunt drill bit and literally 'crush' / 'squish' all the metal into a flat disk with the other half of the snap in place? So you could cut down one step instead of actually having to take it out and use a mallet. Seems like one would be able to make a 'super jig' of sorts with rows and rows of snap holders, attach it to the drill press and press them down on to a sanding belt. don't count me in though, just an idea... you may end up with a snap in yer' eye.

[arbalest]

Revisting this old post. I gave up on the project because of being unsure how to proceed but I am going to give it another try.

I am think the material is about 1mm which is between the thickness of 2 oz and 3 oz leather. I am going to order and try line 16 (and/or line 16 segma belt) snaps with an 1/8" post but I am still open to advice. I tried glove snaps but there was too much post pounded over in the socket to accept the stud part of the snap. When I first posted this I followed the suggestion that I look for canvas snaps and I do see a lot of places selling what looks like line 20 and 24 snaps for canvas.

What I am asking is -- has anyone used leather snaps (line 16, 20, 24, glove, belt, what ever) on fabric, canvas or vinyl? If so, and you got good results it might mean that my tool/fastening technique is all wrong and not the snaps.

[TinkerTailor]

Ive used line 20 and 24 with canvas both with and without leather washers. I use little taps in a circle checking often that the post is flaring out properly, then once the post it basically even and flaring out on all sides, i hit it harder to finish the crimp. I have also mix and matched backs between the snap sizes and even used rivets instead of backs. Play around, its fun. You get to bash stuff and call it research.

I have used several setters, some are better than the others, I wish i could tell you which one to get but i modify all my tools (make the handles bigger etc) and i cant see markings or remember where i got the random tools i have and like....

[ConradPark]

I personally always prefer to make and use leather washers. Some don't like the look, but I actually think it looks very professional. This is some pictures of a notebook cover I made a year back. It's oiled vegetable tanned Italian leather, 1.4 mm (on the inside) and very soft. I used line 20 brass snaps and reinforced with one leather washer (same leather) as seen in the second picture. Depending on the length of the snap post, you might need to use a thicker leather for the washer - learn by trial and error as there's never just one rule that works. Never got a complaint from this method.

Edited May 11, 2015 by ConradPark

[TinkerTailor]

I personally always prefer to make and use leather washers. Some don't like the look, but I actually think it looks very professional. This is some pictures of a notebook cover I made a year back. It's oiled vegetable tanned Italian leather, 1.4 mm (on the inside) and very soft. I used line 20 brass snaps and reinforced with one leather washer (same leather) as seen in the second picture. Depending on the length of the snap post, you might need to use a thicker leather for the washer - learn by trial and error as there's never just one rule that works. Never got a complaint from this method.Notebook02.pngNotebook01.png

A stitch or two in the corners of a leather washer is quick and easy and makes the washer look like a part of the design as opposed to an add-on. I also have used rectangles and punched a second hole for a rivet so it looks like the washer is also a reinforcement for the snap.