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Has anyone here ever tried gold leafing on leather? I have a project with a large expanse that needs to be gold. I'm considering using faux gold leaf, though I can always fall back to Liquid Leaf.

So... anyone? I'm curious to know what you've used for size, what you used for finish on top so it doesn't rub off, things to look out for, that sort of thing.

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Tasha,

Here's a thread where there is a bit of discussion about it. I'm sure you will get more answers yet, though.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...p;hl=gold++leaf

Cool, thank you!

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Hi Tasha-

I have only tried gold leaf once. I used Mona Lisa Metal Leaf Adhesive Size. Everything seemed to stick pretty good - just let it dry about an hour before putting the leaf down. And I am sure you already know that it will stick everywhere the glue gets accidentally put... ;) . I put gel antique over top to tone down the brightness and had a problem with flakes coming off and ending up everywhere they shouldn't be. I ended up painting over them - they wouldn't clean up. This was on a bargrounded background, so if you are doing a smooth area you may not have the same trouble. I just painted on TanKote as a finish. Don't have a wear report, so don't know how it is holding up.

Crystal

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I used the stuff from Hobby Lobby. It's prepackaged and includes a pen style adhesive, and a few sheets of leaf. I used it on inverse carved Kanji lettering, and had no problems until I tried to pack it down to make it cleaner looking. My advice is carve and lift all the edges so that you don't have to touch it after the gold leaf is applied. The gold leaf, as you know is EXTREMELY fragile, and will lift off easily. Use a soft bristled paintbrush to compress it where needed. As soon as possible, get a finish over the gold to prevent it from lifting off.

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I used the stuff from Hobby Lobby. It's prepackaged and includes a pen style adhesive, and a few sheets of leaf. I used it on inverse carved Kanji lettering, and had no problems until I tried to pack it down to make it cleaner looking. My advice is carve and lift all the edges so that you don't have to touch it after the gold leaf is applied. The gold leaf, as you know is EXTREMELY fragile, and will lift off easily. Use a soft bristled paintbrush to compress it where needed. As soon as possible, get a finish over the gold to prevent it from lifting off.
What finish did you use, and how did it wear?
Hi Tasha-I have only tried gold leaf once. I used Mona Lisa Metal Leaf Adhesive Size. Everything seemed to stick pretty good - just let it dry about an hour before putting the leaf down. And I am sure you already know that it will stick everywhere the glue gets accidentally put... ;) . I put gel antique over top to tone down the brightness and had a problem with flakes coming off and ending up everywhere they shouldn't be. I ended up painting over them - they wouldn't clean up. This was on a bargrounded background, so if you are doing a smooth area you may not have the same trouble. I just painted on TanKote as a finish. Don't have a wear report, so don't know how it is holding up.Crystal
Cool... what did you put it on?

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Tasha,

I use faux gold leaf a lot, but never on leather.

I haven't found one yet which doesn't fade to dull silver eventually when exposed to daylight.

Real gold leaf isn't that expensive....considering it's gold. It doesn't hardly weigh anything and is sold by weight. Real gold won't tarnish or fade.

Sometimes we use a PVA based adhesive to stick it down. Tandy Leather Weld is basically PVA. I imagine, watered down, it may work. It will dry very quickly though.

Another problem with the faux gold leaf is that many products used to top-coat it, will dull it. This wouldn't be a problem with real gold. I guess you could put almost anything on top; Lacquers, Resolene...

Cheers,

Karl

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One I got all the stray leaf scraped off (I vinegarooned it so it didn't show) I think I used Resolene. I can't comment on how it wears, 'cause it's still sitting in my work box. The guy who "commisioned" it wanted it for a 'sword wrap' for his katana. So, [everybody groan with the familiarity of this] I get the material, learn to write what he wants in Japanese Kanji and Katakana, make the pieces.......and store them until the next time I run into him....again.

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Tasha,

I use faux gold leaf a lot, but never on leather.

I haven't found one yet which doesn't fade to dull silver eventually when exposed to daylight.

Real gold leaf isn't that expensive....considering it's gold. It doesn't hardly weigh anything and is sold by weight. Real gold won't tarnish or fade.

Sometimes we use a PVA based adhesive to stick it down. Tandy Leather Weld is basically PVA. I imagine, watered down, it may work. It will dry very quickly though.

Another problem with the faux gold leaf is that many products used to top-coat it, will dull it. This wouldn't be a problem with real gold. I guess you could put almost anything on top; Lacquers, Resolene...

Cheers,

Karl

mmmm... looking at a bit of a time crunch here; nearest place I know of to get the real stuff might be Dick Blick in Boston, and that's a journey. I think I'll go with Liquid Leaf till I get to buy some real leaf and experiment. Thanks!

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Tashabear, not sure if you may of seen this before but I came across this tutorial when I was searching for leather carving stuff and thought it might be of some help if you haven't already seen it. http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Leather/Gilded.htm

Cheers,

Clair

I'm such a dope. I have that bookmarked. :crazy:

Thanks!

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