stitch line allowances on holsters

[Peterk]

Hello all,

After making my first couple of holster attempts using the patterning techniques outlined here, I am pretty happy with the process, but I am wondering how some of the professional makers are able to get the stitch line (bottom along the trigger guard and front) so close to the form of the pistol. Per directions I've read and followed, I measure the width of my pistol and divide that in half to get the allowance I needed for molding the gun to the holster. I've found that usually the allowance turns out to be 3/8" outside the form of the pistol and put my stitch lines there, but then the stitch lines usually end up some distance away from the gun form. I don't really want to cut that distance down and end up not being able to stick my gun in while molding...

Any suggestions in predetermining the stitch lines to get it real close to the gun? Thanks.

[leatherjunkie]

sounds like you are making a pancake style holster.

i have not made that style yet. i have only made western style holsters.

therefore i will coment on this style and it may help you or not.

when i am ready to sew up my holsters i will place gun into holster and clamp the edges together using small clamps or you can use rubber cement.after i have installed gun to make sure it fits without adding a welt(remove the handgun at this point) i will true up the edges by using a belt sander with a 120 grit belt installed. i will smooth up the edges using light pressure so i dont burn the leather.

after this is done i will use a gouger and gouge the sewing line 3/16" from the outside edge.

punch the holes 6 per inch. then sew it.

then i wet form the holster to the gun. after it has dried over nite i will finish up the edges and apply the finish(sealer) coat to the holster.

for a pancake style holster i think it would be about the same.

put handgun into the holster and kinda form it without wet forming it so you can tell where to best stitch it. then stitch it and wetform it.

[TwinOaks]

A major consideration for this is the weight of the leather. Have you tried semi forming before laying out the stitchline?

[WaG35]

I can only tell you what I have found from my experience. Half the thickness of the pistol has worked great for holsters made from 7/8 oz leather and the molding has been tight as can be. I feel that anything less and you wouldn't be able to insert the pistol. On the other hand when I have tried the same allowances with 8/9 I wasn't able to get the gun in at all it was too tight. believe me I gave it everything I had. The Glocks that I have used, the allowance comes out to 1/2". My Sig P226 was the same. The one holster that I tried to mold before I stitched was not nearly as tight, But it had a thumb break so it didn't really matter. I hope all of my rambling has helped.

[Peterk]

A major consideration for this is the weight of the leather. Have you tried semi forming before laying out the stitchline?

I am currently working with 8/9 oz leather. Haven't tried forming before laying the stitch line but I think I will give that a try next time.

[Peterk]

I can only tell you what I have found from my experience. Half the thickness of the pistol has worked great for holsters made from 7/8 oz leather and the molding has been tight as can be. I feel that anything less and you wouldn't be able to insert the pistol. On the other hand when I have tried the same allowances with 8/9 I wasn't able to get the gun in at all it was too tight. believe me I gave it everything I had. The Glocks that I have used, the allowance comes out to 1/2". My Sig P226 was the same. The one holster that I tried to mold before I stitched was not nearly as tight, But it had a thumb break so it didn't really matter. I hope all of my rambling has helped.

Given the same weight of leather used, would leather from different distributors behave differently when it comes to forming and determining stitch lines?

[okie44]

I have made several pancake style, and one piece holsters. I guess the method I use is a little risky, but so far I have gotten away with it. I allow half the thickness of the gun along the spine on each piece, if it is a two piece, and full thickness, if it is a one piece, and only allow about the thickness of the leather, or about 1/8" or so on the trigger guard side. I usually use 7/8 oz leather. I glue to these lines, and let it dry, before stitching. After stitching, I get the leather very wet. some times I use water, but usually use rubbing alcohol, as it drys faster, and I don't have to worry about rusting the gun. While the leather is still wet, I insert the gun into the holster. It usually takes a little work to get the gun into the holster. I sometime use a popsicle stick, or bone folder to help get the gun around tight spots. I always worry when I look at the holster and gun, just before I start, that this time I have pushed my luck too far, but so far, so good. This results in using about all the stretch available in the leather. One of these days I am going to push my luck too far, and end up with one too small, but so far I have been lucky. By doing it this way, I get stitch lines very close to the outline of the gun, and since all the stretch has been taken out of the leather, it doesn't loosen up much as it wears. Hope this helps, John

[WaG35]

Given the same weight of leather used, would leather from different distributors behave differently when it comes to forming and determining stitch lines?

My limited experience has shown that to be true. Not only that but the wonderful thing about leather is 2 pieces from the same distributor may behave differently. Until my last hide, I had been using shoulders from Tandy. This last one I bought from Zach White leather which seems to be of much better quality, I was amazed at the detail that I got out of the boning on the first holster I built. And I am not sure why, but the fit is such that it clicks when the gun is inserted almost like a kydex holster.

[Lobo]

Hello all,

After making my first couple of holster attempts using the patterning techniques outlined here, I am pretty happy with the process, but I am wondering how some of the professional makers are able to get the stitch line (bottom along the trigger guard and front) so close to the form of the pistol. Per directions I've read and followed, I measure the width of my pistol and divide that in half to get the allowance I needed for molding the gun to the holster. I've found that usually the allowance turns out to be 3/8" outside the form of the pistol and put my stitch lines there, but then the stitch lines usually end up some distance away from the gun form. I don't really want to cut that distance down and end up not being able to stick my gun in while molding...

Any suggestions in predetermining the stitch lines to get it real close to the gun? Thanks.

About 90% of my production is pancake-style holsters in 8-9 oz. shoulders. When making a new pattern I always lay out the stitching exactly one-half the thickness of the pistol away from the outline of the pistol. Wet-forming will result in considerable stretching, so the resulting fit will be a small distance from the pistol outline. The only way I know of overcoming this would be to use a pneumatic or hydraulic press to form the leather prior to stitching, and that would make the sewing a real chore! Attached are some pictures of a few recent production holsters; these were posted here a few weeks ago with my comments on fitting pancake-style holsters. As you can see, the fit is so close that the guns will not fall out of the holsters.

Sounds to me like you are doing just fine as it is. I wouldn't worry about little things that make no difference in the usability or overall appearance of the finished product. My customers never have, and I've been making holsters for 36 years.

Lobo Gun Leather, serious equipment for serious business.

[Peterk]

About 90% of my production is pancake-style holsters in 8-9 oz. shoulders. When making a new pattern I always lay out the stitching exactly one-half the thickness of the pistol away from the outline of the pistol. Wet-forming will result in considerable stretching, so the resulting fit will be a small distance from the pistol outline. The only way I know of overcoming this would be to use a pneumatic or hydraulic press to form the leather prior to stitching, and that would make the sewing a real chore! Attached are some pictures of a few recent production holsters; these were posted here a few weeks ago with my comments on fitting pancake-style holsters. As you can see, the fit is so close that the guns will not fall out of the holsters.

Sounds to me like you are doing just fine as it is. I wouldn't worry about little things that make no difference in the usability or overall appearance of the finished product. My customers never have, and I've been making holsters for 36 years.

Lobo Gun Leather, serious equipment for serious business.

Thanks Lobo, I just finished my second holster and drew my stitching line a little less than 1/2 the thickness of the width of the pistol and the result was great! I think I will stick with what works here. Thank you very much!

Pete