Machine Thread Types

[Flattracker]

First though I definitely need to re-introduced myself having been away for far too many months with the hand stitching.

I got some great guidance here many months ago and went out and bought a cylinder arm. It didn't work out for me for what I eventually figured out what I wanted to make so I went back to the hand stitching which I know & love and the machine sat in the corner for months unplugged. What a waste.

A new bag project came along recently needing a machine, so fired it up and found out I really needed a flatbed for overall control especially on lightweight non leather & leather to be honest. I just couldn't get a straight line on it or slow it down enough.

So just sold the cylinder arm and today bought a walking foot flatbed.

It instantly feels exactly what I need for the plans I have, my ying yang on high.

I thought about keeping the cylinder arm but space is very tight at present.

Thickness of thread for the flatbed machine I'm about ok on, but I am confused a lot on the type of thread for machines.

Over the last 12 months I've acquired;

Perma Core Polyester Corespun

Nylbond Bonded Twisted Nylon

Polyester Cotton Corespun

I guess there are even more types

Just random guess purchases and mostly wrong!

None of the leather products I'll be making are under big stress, non leather items will be under general bag stress.

Any guidance on thread options are most welcome.

Thanks

[bkm]

I suggest Barbour's linen cord. For leather, I prefer the linen to poly and nylon for sure. I would only use poly to sew poly, nylon to sew nylon, and cotton, well I would probably use poly thread to sew that.

I don't see how you could go wrong with a fine quality linen like Barbour's or Fil Au Chinois Lin Cable from Ets Toulemonde. For heavier work, the Barbour's is ideal and it can easily be dyed or stained the basic colors. If you do finer/lighter work or want more choice of bright colors, then the Fil Au Chinois is the choice.

[Flattracker]

Hi and thanks bkm. Fully agree, I use Barbour Linen thread and wax it for all my hand stitched leatherwork.

It's for the sewing machine I'm not 100% on.
I was doing some more reading this morning...... would this be right;

Nylon or Bonded Nylon variant threads are stronger than Polyester and would deal with seams and if exposed would deal with rain better than a Polyester machine thread.


Polyester threads look more natural than nylon and so on any top stitching projects or visible stitching (both sides) with a contrast colour thread a Polyester thread would look more natural against the leather.

Thanks

[Wizcrafts]

It looks like the OP requested info about thread for sewing machines, not hand sewing.

In my experience, lockstitch machines, other than hook and awl types, break unwaxed linen thread way too easily. Waxed linen thread fowls the moving and tensioning parts and clogs the eye of the needle in standard closed eye needle machines. I think most who have tried it will agree that it is best to stick to bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread in leather and canvas sewing machines.

If you must use Barbour's Irish Linen thread in a lockstitch machine, back off the top and bottom tensions to the minimum that will lock the stitched inside the material. Keep a threading device handy to remove the wax from the eye of the needle.

[Flattracker]

Thanks Wiz,

Choosing between bonded nylon or polyester I thought would be the issue, it may still be but after more reading/searching, seems maybe not so!

I've been trying to find someone who sells Tkt30 (is that 92 T90 in the USA?) thread in London or even the UK which appears to be a much bigger stumbling block.

I find it odd that 2 big industrial machine sellers in south & west London only sell up to Tkt 40 thread (69 T70).

Is it that big an issue going up to a 19/120 needle from an 18/110?

The place I bought the flatbed walking foot from gave me 2 rolls of Perma Core Polyester Corespun Tkt 36 Tex 80. It was almost there in thickness but just looked wrong on the leather, too thin,flaky.

Abbey England are a possible place for threads but surely there must be others around London I can collect from!??

Still searching..... overs

[Darren Brosowski]

High Tenacity Polyester - Amman Serafil - is a good option

[Flattracker]

Thanks Darren, I'll look into that.

I've found a good source of sewing machine threads in the UK and they've even sent me a thread shade card for Coats with the actual thread which is great. The place is called Astra Threads, worth a check if in the UK I guess.

Thanks all

[Wizcrafts]

As a last resort, you could import bonded nylon thread made in Canada, duty free I imagine. The company is Cansew and they produce every type of thread you could want. I used to buy their bonded nylon thread, in matching colors, in sizes 46 through 346 (fewer colors in 346).

[Darren Brosowski]

I know I have mentioned this before but the Amman Serafill is a brilliant thread. It is used in many technical applications and has outstanding UV resistance.

As a bonus it has a lovely "feel" to the hand and does not damage machines.

Yes the really high end nylon has some of these properties but not all.

As a last resort, you could import bonded nylon thread made in Canada, duty free I imagine. The company is Cansew and they produce every type of thread you could want. I used to buy their bonded nylon thread, in matching colors, in sizes 46 through 346 (fewer colors in 346).

[Flattracker]

Thanks Wiz & Darren.

Can't wait to get going on the machine. The thread shade card gives me 15+ shades of brown and I'm dithering but nearly there!

I foresee lots of machine thread type experimentations ahead of me, all good fun.