Summings Report post Posted June 23, 2015 Hello, I’m looking to start my first project, a handbag, and am needing tool recommendations and help with getting the right size tools. This is the material I’m interested in using. http://www.waterhouseleather.com/Soft_Milled_Vegetable_tanned_leather_hides.htm It says it is 1.2-1.8MM thick. Is this a good quality leather? Good price? How well do you think this leather will hold it’s shape? If I needed, What can I use to stiffen the bag? I bought my first tool, a H.F. Osborne overstitching wheel that does 9spi. Is 9 spi suitable for this type of leather? Needles Looking through the forum, I’ve seen that people like to use John James Glover needles for 9spi. Would the needles I need to buy be glovers size 9 to match my 9spi stitching wheel? Thread What size and type of thread do you guys recommend/typically use for handbags that will be stitched 9spi? waxed Polyester? Linen? Stitching Awl&Blade What size blade on an awl would I need for this? Any have any recommendations on what awl&blade I should purchase? Also, what type of fabric or leather do you recommended for the inside? Any help or suggestions are much appreciated, Thank you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) Glover needles I think are sharp, saddler needles aren't because an awl is used. Get something that is small just enough to pull the thread through without needing to feather or skive the thread tip. get a medium sized awl for medium stitching, large for large spaced stitching, small for small stitching. Simple enough. Vergez awls are sized in mm's for the length not the width. 32mm is a good size for 9 SPI, you can sharpen it further for 10 SPI +. 40ish mm for medium stitching, 48+ mm for large SPI 3-6. In the video he says to use metal clippers to cut the tip, just sharpening to round it out could be better. A pointy tip is something I want to keep around on a spare awl for overstitch and the rounded tip for pricking iron. Edited June 23, 2015 by DavidL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Summings Report post Posted June 24, 2015 Hi, I'm still a little bit confused. Would I need to get saddler's needles and a diamond awl? Or would I be able to use only Glover's needles and not buy an awl? If the awls are sized for length, do they also come in different widths? Do you know what size of needles, thread, and(if needed) awl I would need? Also, do you know of any website where I can purchase a 32mm vergez awl other than their website? Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted June 25, 2015 saddlers needle and awl is what you are looking for. A glovers needle, is what the name implies needles for gloves. No awl is needed I believe for glovers needle - only for soft thin leathers. Lekoza.com Email matt and he will help you out, he is also on this forum under Matt T. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites