DavidL Report post Posted August 16, 2015 (edited) How would I flatten a piece of leather that was rolled up from storage? I've tried ironing the leather (towel on top)but the leather is still slightly rolled up. Anything I tried so far hasn't gotten the lester edges to stay flat. Any suggestions? Edited August 16, 2015 by DavidL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted August 16, 2015 How big, and what type of leather? I iron chrome tan leather to get wrinkles and out and make it flat using a high steam setting. Vegtan leather, I cut to the size I want, completely soak it in water, lay it on the bench to to dry. I flip it over occasionally so it dries on the front and back evenly. If it has kinks from scars or stretched from storage, as it is just about cased, I use a glass slicker to straighten it out. The slicker will stretch the leather, so I don't cut to exact shape until after it has been slicked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted August 16, 2015 veg tan leather. I would prefer to flatten the entire hide once, roll it up to store it then flatten it every use. A way without water would be better as I wouldn't have to wait 20 minutes for it to dry. I've seen brushes for shoes being used and baby powder. Any one go that route? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shtoink Report post Posted August 16, 2015 veg tan leather. I would prefer to flatten the entire hide once, roll it up to store it then flatten it every use. A way without water would be better as I wouldn't have to wait 20 minutes for it to dry. I probably don't have the whole picture, but that sounds like a lot of extra unnecessary steps to me. As far as I know, there isn't a quick way to get your hide to go from rolled to flat and back each time you want to cut off a section. Basically, if you need/want it flat, you store it flat. Not everyone here has the luxury of extra space to do that, though. There may be steps to storing it that might help with unrolling it, such as rolling it flesh side in so that the grain side is curved outward when you are cutting it. Weighted shot bags might help with keeping down, too. It might also depend on how tightly rolled up you have it when storing, too. What I do is use weights to help hold things down, measure and cut out the section I need, and roll it back up for storage. The section I plan to work with gets wetted out to flatten and then worked on. This presents the least amount of time and prevents the possibility of putting away wet leather that has the potential to decompose while waiting for the next use. Please keep in mind, that this is just my personal preference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted August 17, 2015 I wouldn't have to wait 20 minutes for it to dry. I would not put away any leather that has only had 20 minutes to dry. Depending on how damp/wet it was it could take 3-24 hours before its fully dry. Wet leather that is rolled tends to mold. I have to store my hides rolled so I roll them out, but shot bags on them to hold them flat, cut what I need and roll it again. I did hang one piece that that was wonderful for staying flat but the wife was not happy at my use of the bedroom. Thats my 2 cents. YMMV Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) Depending on the type of leather, you may be able to just carefully and gently "bend it backwards" to remove the curl. You have to be careful to avoid over- or under-bending, especially near the edges of the leather as those areas require particular care or they can retain their curl. I place them firmly on a table top and make sure that my reverse bend continues to the edge. Try it and you will see what I mean. My caveat has to do with finished leathers like British Bridle Leather. The finish surface can get permanently very wrinkly if you bend it in that direction. Vegtan isn't so susceptible to that but it has its limits. Good luck! Michelle Edited August 23, 2015 by silverwingit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted August 23, 2015 Il try wetting the leather after cutting it out. I have seen a brush been used, similar to ones used for shoes, only larger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bex DK Report post Posted August 24, 2015 I store my leather rolled, but not tightly rolled, and covered with paper. When I lay it out to cut it, I lay it out so it curves down into the table. Then I add weights as needed for cutting. If I need to eliminate the last tendency to curl from a piece, I lay it between my work/cutting table and a very heavy plastic cutting board, with the curl down towards the table as it then is easier to get the other layer on it. Or one of the glass sheets used for casing with books, etc., on top to weight it. But since I don't store them rolled supertight, I don't usually have problems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skipndance Report post Posted December 6, 2015 (edited) Hi DavidL, I am relatively new, but have been lurking for a while. I think what you are talking about that looks like a shoe polishing brush is used to remove the excess wax/residue. I would imagine it would work for English or "western" leathers, but my experience was with English bridle. The side was unrolled and I was given a brush and told to keep rubbing firmly in a circular motion until the friction causes the wax to warm and be removed, reabsorbed or redistributed. I think the flattening out of the roll is an advantageous side effect to the application of elbow grease. ;-) I came across this thread because I am also looking for an innovative way to store leather in a small space, so thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, especially the pictures. Edited December 6, 2015 by Skipndance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites