Fileteuse Manuelle (Heated Edge Creaser) On The Cheap

[soccerdad]

Thanks, Tor, for the Giardini suggestion. I will follow-up on that for sure. Anything that could hasten a high-quality finish is worth a look. Like Thefanninator, I use Fenice with and without heat, depending on circumstances. It's a big step up from the Edge Kote I started with. I like the possibility of using a crease and so will try one or two filetuse tips, as long as Big Matt's affordable heat source pans out, and I'm sure it will.

Thanks to all contributors for this excellent thread.

Fanninator, what is your take on the best tip for my stitch line at 3mm from the edge? I see people using the F2. What is your setup? Do you stitch just beyond the crease?

Thanks,

Dale

[thefanninator]

I've got the F2. At first I thought it was too close to the edge but after using it for a few months I think it's great for small accessories...wallets, pockets, card cases, key fobs.

A 2.5 might be nice for larger items like briefcase and duffles...but you can get by with the F2 for those too.

Yes, I stitch just beyond the crease.

Pic attached of pockets creased with F2, 7 spi. It takes some practice to do curves, just tilt the tip on one end.

Edited September 28, 2015 by thefanninator

[soccerdad]

That's most helpful, Fanninator. Nice stitching, too. What's the thread?

Tor, I just ordered the samples of Giardini.

[thefanninator]

Thanks, Lin Cable 432.

[Trox]

For creasing I prefer my old stock USA made HF/CS Osborn, and I heat them with a small electric finishing stove. I feel I have better control with the temperature this way (the stove are made for leather finishing) Than my inexpensive termostat controlled soldering iron with creasing bits. The soldering iron will work for heat treatment of edge paint, but are to inaccurate for creasing. That will need an accurat temperature control and those are expensive. The shape of the old stock creases are also better and easier to work with.

Tor

[BigMatt]

I got the F2 and it seems to be the right distance from the edge. I tend to mark my stitch line at 1/8" and I might end up getting the F1.5.

I will also need to get the paint spatula. I have been using the side of the edge creaser, and while it works great, it makes the tool look pretty bad.

I recommend this method to anyone who is slightly adventurous, mechanically inclined, and wants to use the real fileteuse tips on their leather work.

[soccerdad]

BigMatt,

I'm giving the Janik-filetuse setup a shot. Thanks for the ideas. And thanks to all other contributors, as well.

D

[BigMatt]

Great! Let us know how it goes!

[soccerdad]

BigMatt,

If you are out there, I could use a hand. I picked up the F2 tip and plugged it into Wall Lenk voltage regulator (probably not the right term) and fried the wire -- same as I think you did early on. Would you be willing to repair it for me? I'm happy to pay, of course.

Dale

[izmarkie]

Any idea what the temperatures are for glazing with Fenice? When I heat treat, it's changing the color and I'm not getting an even finish. Can't tell if I'm running it too high or too low.

Edited November 28, 2015 by izmarkie