Fliebing's Lt. Brown Oil Dye

[Tac]

Rather than hi-jack another thread.... I have been reading several posters comments regarding the use of Fliebing's Lt. Brown Oil Dye and it splotching and coming out inconsistant.

I have been struggling with the same problems for as long as I have been trying to make Lt. Brown gear... I recently had a customer request a Lt. Brown holster set and I tried something I have never done before with the dye process. I tried using an air brush to apply it. It turned out pretty well. Usually I use a wool dauber to apply my dye, after I have wet molded the item and let it dry. The only thing I changed this go around was using an air brush to apply the dye.

Since I am not experienced in using an air brush, there was a learning curve for me, but I think I could get better at it with some experience.

When I use a wool dauber in the past I found that I ended up with a holster with dark spots, streaks and it was ALWAYS darker than I wanted it to be. This newer method seemed to give me a consistant color, with no dark spots, splotches or streaking. I like the shade of the color too.

I do not normally de-glaze my leather (about 90% of my work is done in black and I have never needed to de-glaze in the past). I might give that a try in the future with my lighter colors of dye.

I hope the picture turns out ok. I am not very handy with a camera.

Let me know what you'all think.

-Tac

[Randyc]

Tac

I think your holster looks real good. Did you also make the cuff case?

I've also had problems with the consistancy of both Fieblings light and medium browns. I'm thinking of trying the air brush routine and have a few questions.

Do you reduce the dye or use full strength?

Do you use any type of spray booth ie. a cardboard box?

Since you probably don't hold the holster while spraying, how do you hang the holster while spraying?

Thanks Randy

[Tac]

Thanks Randy.

Yes, I made the mag pouch and cuff case as well. I sell a complete set of mag pouch, holster, cuff case and badge holder to Police Officers. It works well for plain clothes carry as well as concealed for off-duty. This customer is a Detective Sergeant and she already had a badge holder in brown, so she just wanted the holster, cuff case and mag pouch.

I used the dye at full strength. I have never diluted any of my dyes before, as I have never had the need.

I did not use any form of "spray booth". I just hooked the air brush to my compressor in the garage, turned the pressure WAY down and tried it out on a scrap piece of leather... it worked well enough that I tried it out on the mag pouch, then the cuff case, then the holster.

As for holding the pieces. I wore laytex gloves and laid out a few pieces of news paper on my bench (with a few more covering the area to prevent my tools from becoming brown). I shot the back sides first, with the pieces laying on the news paper. Because there is so little dye used and it was warm, (mid-70's in Phx. today) they dried very fast and I was able to pick them up, turn them over and do the face sides of each piece. I let that dry, then held them in my hands as I got the edges, inside the holster and mag pouch and any area's I had missed with them laying flat. The whole process took longer to set up, than to actually do. I cleaned the air brush with some paint thinner and was done.

I picked up the air brush at "hobby lobby" for $22.00. I already had a small air compressor in the garage that was set up with a regulator so I could adjust my air flow pressure. It was suprisingly simple and quick. The effect it had on the final finish and color was well worth the $22.00.

-Tac

[Hennessy]

Thanks Randy.

Yes, I made the mag pouch and cuff case as well. I sell a complete set of mag pouch, holster, cuff case and badge holder to Police Officers. It works well for plain clothes carry as well as concealed for off-duty. This customer is a Detective Sergeant and she already had a badge holder in brown, so she just wanted the holster, cuff case and mag pouch.

I used the dye at full strength. I have never diluted any of my dyes before, as I have never had the need.

I did not use any form of "spray booth". I just hooked the air brush to my compressor in the garage, turned the pressure WAY down and tried it out on a scrap piece of leather... it worked well enough that I tried it out on the mag pouch, then the cuff case, then the holster.

As for holding the pieces. I wore laytex gloves and laid out a few pieces of news paper on my bench (with a few more covering the area to prevent my tools from becoming brown). I shot the back sides first, with the pieces laying on the news paper. Because there is so little dye used and it was warm, (mid-70's in Phx. today) they dried very fast and I was able to pick them up, turn them over and do the face sides of each piece. I let that dry, then held them in my hands as I got the edges, inside the holster and mag pouch and any area's I had missed with them laying flat. The whole process took longer to set up, than to actually do. I cleaned the air brush with some paint thinner and was done.

I picked up the air brush at "hobby lobby" for $22.00. I already had a small air compressor in the garage that was set up with a regulator so I could adjust my air flow pressure. It was suprisingly simple and quick. The effect it had on the final finish and color was well worth the $22.00.

-Tac

i've been dyeing a lot here lately a way that was recently showed to me.it works well with black,propbably with any oil base dont know about stain,clean surface,neat lac ,dry ,dye,dry,rub off surface,neat lac,dry,usually enough but repeat dye n lac if needed. try on scrap n see peter john

[WaG35]

Those are really nice Tac. I recently tried my air brush too, and I won't be going back to daubers any time soon.

[TwinOaks]

+10 for using the airbrush! I've had one sitting in the box for about 4 months now, and last Sat. decided to try it out. I wasn't using oil dyes, but the standard spirit dyes. I found that at a given setting on the airbrush, I could get several shades of the color by limiting the number of passes over the leather. For my spray booth set up, I used 'exam gloves' and the inside of the door to my shed/shop. With the spirit dyes, the leather is dry almost as soon as you're done spraying. For the first time I was able to get a nice even coat without saturating the leather and getting darker than I wanted because I had to recoat to eliminate streaks.

Oh, the item I made was a cell case for my new-ish cell phone. I cut the leather about a half inch too short to fully wrap the phone; in trying to machine stitch it on a Viking 6440 I managed to completely butcher the edges when the thread balled up; I also forgot to add the hardware (thank goodness) before I got the elastic liner glued and stitched in. So, overall I absolutely wasted about an hour of layout/construction and half a sq. ft of leather, but the finish sure looked good!

I also seriously doubt that I'll be using the daubers for anything but edges anymore.

Edited December 3, 2008 by TwinOaks

[HarryB]

Just a word of caution: I was once told that air brushing Fiebing's solvent based dyes (or anyone else's, I guess) give off benzine, a highly hazerdous substance to be breathing! I have not air brushed since then and have not checked with Fiebing's to verify this. I guess we need to check this out, huh?

[TwinOaks]

Harry, what is the source of this info? I wasn't aware that benzine was a component of the sovent used in spirit dyes.

Of course, this is not to say that airbrushing anything (besides acrylics and Eco dyes) should be done without adequate ventilation.

Edited December 3, 2008 by TwinOaks

[dbusarow]

Looks great Tac. Guess I know what my next tool purchase needs to be now.

Dan

[HarryB]

My source is a retired geologist/current full-time saddlemaker in Colorado. I haven't taken the time to follow up on his info but haven't airbrushed any more solvent dyes, either! We need to find out. If I remember (I suffer from bouts of CRS and if you don't know what CRS is I'll e-mail you with the answer) I'll call Fiebing's Wednesday and ask the source. Then we'll know.

[Tac]

Thanks Dan. It's a cheap investment if you have a compressor already!

Harry... I appreciate your concern for my health! I would seriously be interested in the answer to the question you pose to Fliebings. I have pretty good vetilation in my garage, where I would be using my air brush, but if added precausions, (like a mask/filter) are needed, I would consider the cost and go from there.

-Tac

[MADMAX22]

Well when airbrushing you will be turning it in to a mist or whatever that gets airborne but your not changing any of the chemical properties of the dye. If it releases benzine then there was benzine in the dye to begin with.

However its still not good to breathe the stuff whatever is in there, so atleast a little mask thats good fitting (can get them at homedepot or the such allthough I go to lowes because HD tends to be antigun) and youll be set.

[dickf]

Great looking finish. I guess an airbrush is something to add to my ever-growing list of tools and gear.

I've used the method in Chuck's thread about Isopropyl alcohol as a deglazer and it works really well.

[Go2Tex]

Yeah, nice job for light brown. It's a pain to get that light coat using a douber. I've gotten a nice light coat, unintentionally, by dying wet leather. Of course, if you were going to try it intentionally, the leather should be cased well so that the moisture is even throughout the leather, giving an more even obsorption. But, it's still a crap shoot every time I open a bottle of dye.

I've found that moulding the leather will make it more difficult to get an even effect also. A lot of rubbing down of wet leather is the same process as tempering strap leather to make it firm, so I guess the pores of the leather get pressed together and, voila!.... blotchy dye jobs. That's probably why my dyed saddle seats are hard to dye evenly, hmmmm.

Moulding/rubbing also puts a lot of oils from your hands on the leather, which requires cleaning with deglazer or something to remove all that grime.

Edited December 3, 2008 by Go2Tex

[Bree]

Airbrushing any solvent-based dye can affect health from breathing stuff that your lungs don't like. It can also affect life by causing explosions if you get enough solvent mist and an ignition source! Spray booths used for spraying solvent-based paints and the like must have explosion proof motors/lights etc.

It's a good idea to spray any solvent-based stuff with lots of ventilation... preferably outside if you can... and certainly not within range of an ignition source.

[tazzmann]

As another side note, not relating to health, if you use an airbrush with solvent based dyes or clean with paint thinner, remember that some of the cheaper air brushes use RUBBER seals which will melt. (I just replaced a set that turned to goo with over use of solvent cleaners.) Either spend the money for a good airbrush which uses nylon seals, or replace the rubber ones with nylon. Most airbrush companies offer nylon replacement seals, though sometimes you have to call and ask for them directly. The other options is to keep buying refurb kits every time your seals turn to goo.

[Shorts]

Speaking of airbrushes I bought a Badger 350 last night. My cheapo HF $5.99 airbrush finally bit the farm and I had gear on the table needing top coat.

Good work Tac on the gear. I've used the AB these past 6 or 7mths and I'm happy with the results. I can't stand dealing with clogged nozzles/cleaning/etc but I like the results

When spraying Eco-Flo, I wear a mask. While it isn't toxic it does get in my sinuses and airways and well, its gross. If you're spraying other dye yall be sure to take precautions. No sense in hurting your health if the threat can be mitigated with minimal fuss.

[TwinOaks]

Harry, I appreciate your following up with Fiebings for us. It's a good thing to know, and I'm pretty happy that everyone else has chimed in with their safety concerns. Regarding the masks: If you don't have a good ventilation system ( or can't go outdoors to work) I strongly recommend getting a single or dual cartridge mask that filters VOCs. It isn't really an issue for me, as I'm working outside, using the delapidated door of my shed as a backstop for overspray, but some folks don't have that option. Great hijack topic, gang!

Tac, excellent work on the rig, I'm hoping the next few projects I do turn out as even as that.

[HarryB]

Rumor debunked!!! I spoke with a rep from Fiebing's today and was told that it is safe to airbrush Fiebing's solvent dyes as long as we use sufficient ventilation. Good to know; now I will start doing it again. Always best to be on the safe side when we're talking about our health.

[Luke Hatley]

Rumor debunked!!! I spoke with a rep from Fiebing's today and was told that it is safe to airbrush Fiebing's solvent dyes as long as we use sufficient ventilation. Good to know; now I will start doing it again. Always best to be on the safe side when we're talking about our health.

AND A MASK WILL BE VERY BENEFICIAL ALSO.........