How To Open An Adler 30-1

[Kohlrausch]

In my case I brazed metal onto the puck end of the bell crank lever, then sanded and polished it for the best fit short of binding in the ring bar. The stitch length jumped from 7 or 8 per inch to 5 per inch, just from that one correction.

However, I have encountered some patchers that were improperly setup for foot lift during the pulling cycle. The foot needs to lift off the leather in order to move forward. Then, it must drop all the way down, onto the material and exert enough pressure to pull the work back the stitch length, as set by the sliding stitch regulator on the back of the foot bar.

Hi Wiz and everybody,

thanks for the countless bits of info I could pick from your threads. This brazing seems to be pretty much what needs to be done to my Adler 30-1, plus some height-adjusting of the pressurefoot. But - how on earth does one open the darn things? Everybody seems to think it's obvious, so nobody describes this. I can unscrew the head-assy so it's dangling from the big toplever, but I can't get it off the lever and I cant disassemble it.

Any hints?

Thanks folks

Greets

Ralf C.

[Constabulary]

Hi Ralf,

you have to disassemble the head to get to the bell crank lever.

Remove the pin that attaches the needle bar to the adjuster in the top lever (back to front, pin is tapered), remove the 4 screws that hold the head on the body, remove the foot lift lever, remove the screw that holds the curved spring on the head and the 2 screws on the top, remove the 2 screws from the bell crank lever.... Maybe I forgot something but thats basically what you have to do and since you love old technology the rest is pretty much self explaining. It´s sometimes a bit tricky but no rocket science - I did that a couple of times in the past year. My 1st patcher was a Singer 29K71 and I knew nothing about it. All parts just fit in one position so there is not much you can do wrong.

I wish you posted this 2 days earlier - yesterday I was in Langenhagen

BTW - as far as I know the bell crank lever from the 30-1 and Singer 29K are the same, you maybe have to do some small modifications.

[Kohlrausch]

Found the solution: The splint pin is conical - can be driven out to one side only.

Greets Ralf C.