KelseyR89 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 I recently purchased a Seiko STH -8BLD-3 and am still getting used to it. I pretty well have the tension right but today I noticed a couple things when I was back stitching. It just didn't look clean, the stitches weren't aligned very well and there seemed to be maybe not enough tension or something because there were loops and it just looked so messy! So that happened for awhile, then the thread began to either break or be cut while back stitching so I'm just a little bit at a loss for what to do. Since I don't have any prior experience with machines I don't even know where to begin! Thanks for any advice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 17, 2015 First, what thread, needle size, and type are you using. When stitching in reverse, are you letting the needle go down then up 3/16 inch, stopping and shifting into reverse and continuing stitching? The balance (hand) wheel always goes from the top towards you. Never move the wheel away (from the top) from you, NEVER, EVER. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KelseyR89 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 First, what thread, needle size, and type are you using. When stitching in reverse, are you letting the needle go down then up 3/16 inch, stopping and shifting into reverse and continuing stitching? The balance (hand) wheel always goes from the top towards you. Never move the wheel away (from the top) from you, NEVER, EVER. Art I'm using 138 thread and a 22 needle. I am definitely not doing that! I wasn't aware I needed to do that. So say I just stitched a line, I let the needle go all the way down, then (manually?) bring the needle up 3/16", push down the reverse lever and then stitch? I was aware that I should always turn the wheel towards me, never away, so I haven't done that! It was just weird that after probably 15+ times of trying the reverse stitching that all the sudden the thread started breaking. I'll try doing what you said and play around with that, but if you think of anything else I could try in the mean time I would appreciate it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KelseyR89 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 First, what thread, needle size, and type are you using. When stitching in reverse, are you letting the needle go down then up 3/16 inch, stopping and shifting into reverse and continuing stitching? The balance (hand) wheel always goes from the top towards you. Never move the wheel away (from the top) from you, NEVER, EVER. Art Actually, maybe I'm not 100% sure what you mean by bring the needle up 3/16". Why would the needle need to be down all the way if you're just going to bring it up 3/16"? Sorry if that's a stupid question, but I'm just so new I don't know anything!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 17, 2015 Sorry, I read the numbers wrong. On your machine you should be able to just press the backup lever. However what TYPE of needle? Leather point, round point, ball point, diamond point, Tri point? Give us the exact needle nomenclature from the pack, e.g. 135x16 Tri Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KelseyR89 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 Sorry, I read the numbers wrong. On your machine you should be able to just press the backup lever. However what TYPE of needle? Leather point, round point, ball point, diamond point, Tri point? Give us the exact needle nomenclature from the pack, e.g. 135x16 Tri Art The package doesn't say... It just says Seiko needles. Maybe these pictures will help! So if I don't need to pull the needle up 3/16" with my specific machine, does the needle still need to be down all the way before I start the back stitch? I tried to find some helpful Youtube videos on backsl stitching with an industrial machine but there was anything very helpful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 18, 2015 That looks like a round (or conical) point needle, very possibly a 135x17 (DPx17). The point isn't the greatest for sewing leather, and it is better to use a 135x16 Tri needle and have the machine timed for that. This is how leather machine dealers set them up. You should be able to get needles from Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial or Gregg O'Neill at Keystone Sewing. You may or may not have to retime the hook a little for the shorter needle. Where are you located, and who did you purchase from? Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
