John Bianchi/western Holster Making Using Neatsfoot Oil For Coloring

[bushpilotmexico]

We all know that neatsfoot oil darkens leather....in Bianchi's 3 video set of Western Holster Making he exclusively uses neatsfoot oil, multiple coats, including immersing the belt and holster in a heated tank of oil. He claims that for the belt and holster he will use 1 pint of oil.

Even though his leather darkens some it's no where near the dark color I get when I try using neatsfoot on a sample piece of leather.

I normally use Lexol non darkening prior to dying and with the Lexol alone there is no appreciable darkening of the leather. I find the Lexol helps the alcohol based dye penetrate the leather evenly.

Just wondering if anyone has viewed Bianchi's videos and might be able to comment. My neatsfoot is a pure oil that I get from Sheridan leather.

I just thought I might try only using neatsfoot but with pure neatsfoot there is no middle ground every coat darkens the leather more....this doesn't happen to Bianchi.

[bushpilotmexico]

I've done a lot of Googling since i posted this thread and the general consensus is that using excessive neatsfoot oil is a major no no.

This a posting that I read on Leatherworker.net

Too much Neatsfoot oil will definitely harm the leather. Neatsfoot oil softens by breaking down the fibers of the leather. To much oil means too much breaking down. I got impatient oiling my tack as a teenager and put the reins all the way into the oil bottle. I pulled them right out and wiped them off, but the damage was done. They gradually broke down and got longer and longer till they broke. The horse thought that was great, he could reach more grass, and eventually got to go where he wanted!

Bianchi pours on the neatsfoot including passing it through an oil bath. I know Frontier leather uses the Bianchi name but getting to talk with John is next to impossible.

What amazes me in the video is that the leather doesn't significantly darken, yes it does darken some but turns out more a mellow brown tone.

My sample is 8/9 oz and has 3 applications and the oil has penetrated right thru the leather. If I had to I could live with the color although it's a lot darker than I would normally use when dying with Fiebing's British Tan.

I know I'm not getting and response to my thread but as a virtual newbie any reply would be appreciated especially if neatsfoot will eventually damage the goods.

Thx

[Art]

I don't use neatsfoot anymore, like I haven't for decades. Application of oils or conditioners really depends on the condition of the leather to start with. Most of the time, oil/conditioner is not necessary for a hide that hasn't been spirit dyed or spent a long time in storage. Like a friend who is a dermatologist told me, "If it is too moist, put astringent (read alcohol for leather) on it, if it is too dry, put moisturizer (read oil/conditioner for leather) on it; but whatever you do, treat it quickly or it might go away on it's own".

So, I use Fiebing's spirit dyes on most things except Black, which I get tannery dyed. I use one coat of Pecard's or Montana Pitchblend paste and let it soak in for a day, or overnight. After that, I might use Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax or Carnauba Cream and buff that up to a shine. Most of the Tannery Dyed leathers have enough oil in them and just the wax is enough.

For the life of the leather, you don't oil or condition till you need it. The people who make the oil/conditioner want you to oil after every use, any guesses as to why? For example; a saddle that is used every day, rain or shine, should be looked at every six months for safety and then, even if it doesn't look brand new anymore should be ignored until it gets to the one year mark, then oil or condition it and reset the timer. If your leather lives in the tack room, then it might be years before it needs oil. Better too little oil than too much.

Art

[Red Cent]

On most any piece of vegetable tanned leather, a drop of NF will leave a dark spot. Put some of the NF on a piece of old t-shirt and squeeze the rag. As you wipe the NF on, you will realize that you have streaks and you have to keep applying and rubbing until it looks all the same. If you concentrate on one spot, you will over do it.

Sun light is your friend. Get the leather as neat (no pun intended) as you can and give it a suntan. It will tan to a beautiful color.

JB dips the holsters and belt, and actually, pretty fast. He wipes a lot of it off. He does not mind if that rig is not stiff. It changes color and will change a lot more in the sun. Try to sell a soft pliable holster to a SASS shooter and he/she will probably laugh.

My SASS rigs are NF'ed after sewn and finished. Or dyed if requested.

[bushpilotmexico]

I checked with a technician at Frontier Gun Leather and he told me that JB uses a special oil that they buy from Weaver it's Sheps Neatslene harness oil comes in light or dark.

Although I have neatsfoot that I bought from Sheridan Leather I have never used it and maybe never will....I just thought it strange that JB soaks his belts and holsters in oil.

The tech did say as well it also depends on the quality of the leather and it's age.

I have never used drum dyed leather and Art says he buys the black drum dyed, I would think for belts. What i kind of don't like (I use Fiebing's alcohol dyes) is that they don't penetrate very deeply and scratches or abuse shows up quickly.

One thing about my oil dyed test piece is that the color goes completely through the leather. JB in his video does mention using sunlight to lighten and even goes so far as to recommend tanning lamps for using indoor if it's snowing outside.

I appreciate all the comments and help.

Thx

[TinkerTailor]

Apparently neatslene is a mostly (80-95%) petrolium based product and lists no neatsfoot as an ingredient, according to the msds sheet: http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/MSDS/Sheps-Neatslene-Harness-Oil-Light.pdf

Where as 100% neatsfoot oil is just that. http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/MSDS/Sheps-Pure-Neatsfoot-Oil.pdf

This would explain the color difference, he is not actually using any neatsfoot oil. It just has neats in the name.